1984 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You don't fix it you replace it. Just take it off the front axle and pull the cable out.

You have a leak somewhere.

Check Aerial connection for corrison also check resistance ,check the radio is grounded and That there's a surge protected best of luck

It may be a problem with your pipe being clogged or dented badly. In a worse case, it could be that the cylinder is not firing. If you can, start your bike, and feel the pipe right at the header to see if it is getting hot. If the pipe stays cool while the others are hot, your cylinder is not firing. If that is, check the spark plug to see if it is fouled or cracked. If the plug is good, check if the cylinder is getting fuel because it could be that your carb is clogged.

Go to www.stevesaunders.goldwing forum and someone will answer that question. Anything that is Goldwing!

You need to rebuild or clean the carb or carbs completely pay close attention to the low speed circuit make sure its clear.

a strainer inside the tank and a filter under the seat

Squirt oil in your cylinders and recheck the compression. If your compression goes up you have bad rings. Check your valve tolerances to make sure that the valves are not being held open only because they are adjusted too tight. This would cause compression loss. If the valves were bent because the timing belts slipped or broke You may have to replace the valves to get compression back up. If the engine has low compression because there are 300,000 miles on the bike you may just need a complete overhaul or a new motorcycle. If you had at least 110 compression on all cylinders and they were all with in 10 pounds of each other you could still be riding on low octane fuel.

Six years is a long time and you are plrbably having a good time getting it going. My friend, I suggest you have the Honda Shop do a dune up on your machine before youtake it anywhere serious.

thanks for your question

Not saying this is the actual best solution alright. You can use a hone to accomplish this.

You might try recording a HARLEY Sound and playing the CD on your bike really loud!!

You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate/year round. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. Shell Rotella T 10w-40 ($12 a gallon) and Rotella T Synthetic 15w-40 ($22 a gallon) are inexpensive JASO MA oils. Be sure to check the label on the bottle, some of the lighter weights are not JASO MA. You will need 4 quarts of oil, an aluminum drain plug washer, and a filter.

It depends on whether it has a rear disk brake or a rear drum brake. If it is a disk brake the caliper will have a small bleed screw on it, all you do is fit a piece of clear hose to it or use a vizibleed which is basically a hose with a one way valve on it. Pump up the rear brake pedal and keep it held down, best to have two people. Then you crack the bleed screw by about 1/4 of a turn and allow the fluid out, tighten and repeat until all the old fluid is replaced by the new fluid.

If however it is a drum brake, you need to locate the drum adjuster. You will see an arm coming off the rear axle housing which looks like a gear lever, it will attach to a rod with a spring and a nut on it. Basically you tighten the nut until you get some pedal pressure.

However which ever version it is, you may want to change out the shoes/pads first.

Hi, they used points and condensors on the very early gl1000' but your model has electronic ignition and does not use points and condensors, more the pitty in the old days you had points condensors and ignition coils, if you had a problem it was far easyer to trace the fault, but now with pulse generators etc its more difficult to diagnose without diagnostic equiptment, and to expensive to re

Most likely it is a valve cover gasket. There is a cam seal underneath the cam belt timing gear that is easy to replace (I have replaced two of those when the same leak appeared.The seal is part #28. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1985-honda-gl1200i-gold-wing-interstate/o/m2346#sch18022 Worst case scenario the crankshaft seal has begun to leak. It is easily replaced once you have taken off the covers, belts, and center belt sprockets. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1985-honda-gl1200i-gold-wing-interstate/o/m2346#sch16246 The seal is part #13 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1985-honda-gl1200i-gold-wing-interstate/o/m2346#sch17585

This is probably not the master cylinder, but more likely the brake caliper sticking.

The caliper uses hard-rubber 'O' rings, and they get old and 'sticky', to the point that they will no longer 'release' the brake pads.

Either rebuild your caliper, or replace with a new one.

what bike is it on? most have an adjuster by the handlebar, and one the clutch casing actuator arm.

do it from the bottom first and make sure there is a nut either side of the cable grab on the motor itself. and make sure that the handlebar end is wound in first.

Let me start by saying i have worked on alot of goldwings and replaced more timing belts on them then i care to say, they are very easy to spot and set, in the front of the motor you have a cover that is in two parts remove that cover after you have off you will see two (2) belts one to each bank. the timing marks or on the pullys and they are hard to miss and are very clear how to set. I'm going to send you a link that will give the micro phish to your bike.
http://fiche.worldofpowersports.com/wps/Honda_OEM/HondaMC.asp?Type=13&A=33&B=5
this link is to world of powersports the have all the micro phish on your bike.
the timing marks on the pulleys will line up the split in the case and should be on the outside of the pulleys (facing away from center)
if yo have the belts off already the timing mark on the center pully has it's own hash mark, set cylinder 1 t.d.c. check marks.
if you need more info please contact me
M.Woodring

I have only changed the belts on my GL1000's. The manual says to remove the radiator but I have found that it is not necessary. With a little bit of knuckle scrapping and some care when removing the four long bolts that hold on the belt covers, you can slide both the bolts and the covers out and replace the belts underneath. If there is just not quite enough clearance you may be able to unbolt the radiator and move it forward just enough to accomplish this with out having to drain it. The pictures you have may be from a 1000, an 1100, or a 1200. The fact is that the timing belts are changed and adjusted the same way on all three models. Just take care when removing the cover mount bolts that you do not damage the radiator. If you are careful you should be able to replace the belts with out all the extra work of draining and removing the radiator. Dealers short cut the radiator removal but charge you for the time anyway. Good Riding.

The only thing usually necessary is to pull a little slack in the carb heater air hose to get enough room to pull the plastic belt cover free. Changing the water pump, timing belts, alternator are much easier.Just be sure to double and triple check the cam alighnment before tightening the tensioners. If you do it right you are spot on. Just be sure to rotate the crank at least twice.--- For complete detail on how to replace the belt and other parts.please click the link below:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-replace-timing-belts-on-1200cc.html ----------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.