20 Most Recent 2005 Husaberg Fe 650 e - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Some bulbs have dual elements like Hi/Lo beam or Tail/brake in the rear. Have you checked that both elements function correctly in each dual element bulb?
Have someone watch while you check all functions front and rear.

Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 27, 2019

usually the plungers at the brake caliber ,
but might be out of fluid, sometimes if system goes dry upper plunger at brake handle, might crack? wont push fluid
there are rebuild kits for both ends
could also be rusted in place?

Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 27, 2019

the negatives are connected and the positives are connected together , lay the batteries in the holder and the wire harness on top , it should sort of lay where it wants, batteries are connected to double the voltage , 2 12v battery together make 24v

Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 27, 2019

there is a spring on the inside that goes both ways keeping shifter to return to neutral , did it shift on its own, do you have kids, can you repeat it, make it happen again?

Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 27, 2019

Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works at a time, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to the headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
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Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 26, 2019

Hi, Tim, moisture, condensation, rain, or bike washing can make the bike run sluggish, not able to rev, and misfire. Older bikes, engine configuration, and exposed electrical components are at the front of the line for acting up. During the diagnostic procedure spray Electrical Contact Cleaner on corroded wire connectors/pins/sockets etc. and apply a liberal amount of "DIELECTRIC" grease to the mating harness/wire connectors. WD40 works great for eliminating suspect areas in your quest to find the real offending gremlin.
For additional insurance you can spray a High Temp Clear Coat on the most vulnerable areas it will work like Scotch Guard does on fabric. Fabricate a rubber or plastic splash guard to deflect water coming off the front wheel getting to the front cylinder spark plugs. The design should be adequate for its purpose with the least amount of airflow restriction to cool the cylinders. The usual suspects are:
1. Air filter soaked with water.
2. Water in the fuel system gas tank and carburetors.
3. Wet ignition coil packs.
4. Spark plug boots wore out or loose allowing water to enter.
5. Spark plug cables old and cracked check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Spark plug wells filled up and drain holes clogged.
7. Water in a wire harness that has exposed open ends and have a sharp bend or crimp allowing the liquid to form its own pool of potential threats to chaffed wiring.
8. Sensitive fuel tuners and downloaded ECM remaps may get confused with the abnormal cylinder temperature difference in a V-4 engine configuration.
9. Fuel injected bikes need to have the electrical connectors removed and sprayed with contact cleaner then blown dry and checked for continuity with a test light or multimeter, then treated with Dielectric Grease.
If your bike will not run right or even start after going through the checklist, despair not, letting it sit for a couple of days in a warm environment is like an eviction notice for the Gremlins and then your bike will be back to its old self. You can speed up this process by using forced air to dry out electrical connections.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 21, 2019

Hi, Dorothy and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Intake air leak.
9. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or the fuel line is closed off, restricting fuel flow.
10. Choke valve inoperative.
11. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
13. Faulty ignition coil.
14. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 18, 2019

wrong fuel mixture , or wrong ignition timing ,check for vacuum leaks at the manifold and carburetor , check valve and ignition timing and spark plug cables. also check the fuel pressure and flow.

Motorcycles | Answered on Jul 14, 2019

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