20 Most Recent 1985 kawasaki KE 125 Questions & Answers

This makes 0% sense sorry.

That is a timing issue. The usual cause is the cam and crank are not in synch. If that bike has a lot of use, time to overhaul the engine.

you sure their vacuum lines and not vents?

All you need to do is remove the right crankcase cover then remove the clutch cap and springs then the friction plates and clutch plates. Note that a friction plate is both the first and last plate in the clutch and that a pressure plate is in-between each friction plate. Friction plates are fiber, pressure plates are metal. No case splitting is required.

You may want to get a 3/8" impact driver to remove screws and hex head bolts and to tighten them back up. I find it to be the most useful tool in my shop. My Bluepoint brand impact driver is 40 years old an as good as new.

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Are you saying there are 2 filaments in the one bulb? If that is the case then replace the bulb. The filament may look good but that isn't always the case. If you have a ohm meter then check the bulb filaments that way. You can also check the bulb across the battery with wires being held on the lead point and the other on the side ground.
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should be the white wire on the end of the harness

sudden loss or never had? run down wires and make sure you have not burnt the connections or shorted the circuit out. Fusebox can short without showing signs of burnt fuse. Corrosion is number 1 cause on a on/off road cycle. Faulty headlight switch controls both functions also

well Kazuma is chinese im thinking, the closest you might get to the manual is a Honda xr125 manual If its a honda clone engine, ask at your local shop wether it is a honda clone engine. if so its most likely an Xr125 clone.

A clutch helps it sync in and out of gears, but doesn't stop it from shifting, try rocking it with the engine off and see if it will shift, otherwise, it sounds like it's internal.

No, the reverse light is only for reverse indication. If the light is coming on while riding in any forward gear there is a loose connection, probably where the reverse sender attaches to the transmission or the sender itself is malfunctioning.

need more info or go to a mech. If this is all ya got dont mess with it.

Your carb is gummed up from old fuel. ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Your gas tank should be removed , dumped and flushed out. Install an in-line fuel filter. If the tank is badly rusted, Google “ kreem fuel tank liner “ or go to www.http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html I

Drain the carburetor. There should be a plug on the bottom or a bolt on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove it then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

After sitting for 24 years the crank bearings may be in bad shape. Remove the left case cover and lift the flywheel up and down and left and right. The flywheel should be rock solid with no movement at all.
This shows a 1983 carb. Yours will be very similar.

only if you get the base machined out to take the 175,would be cheaper to get a replacement liner fitted

try putting a squirt of gas directly into the carborator and crank it to see if it tries to start, or may run for a second then quit. If so, the float is probably stuck shut.

You have a bent shift fork. The repair means taking the engine out of the frame then removing the top end, removing the flywheel and electrics, removing the clutch , shift mechanism and kick starter and a few other parts. THEN you are ready to split the gearbox to remove the crankshaft and then the bent shift fork. Next you get to put it all back together. This is a pretty big job for the home mechanic.

You will need an impact driver, flywheel puller, case splitter and torque wrench plus the normal screwdriver, pliers, etc.. Alternate to the special tools is taking it to the dealer and say "Fix it".
I normally tell people to take it to the shop just so they don't get into such an involved project.

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I don't know if I can solve it but it sounds to me like you're not getting enough fuel. has it been sitting awhile or just start doing this randomly? If it's been sitting there's a pretty good chance you'll need to clean you carburetor. when gas sits in the bowl of your carburetor for too long it will get thick and smell almost like varnish. My Suzuki 250 4x4 had a similar misfire and cleaning the carb fixed mine.

burning to hot, change air filter. adjust mix on carb, tight in and 1 and 3/4 out

Petseal will fisx the petrol tank and the carb is probably blocked with dead insects and corroded jets etc.

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