20 Most Recent 1985 kawasaki ZL 900 A1 Eliminator Questions & Answers

The Caliper piston needs removing and cleaning. This video should help

10mm used bolts 27 ft\lb
10mm new bolts 29 ft\lb

there was a 11mm head bolt option on some models with a protruding head 35ft\lb used 38ft\lb new

on TDC line the exhaust cam mark EX with the gasket surface.
then count chain pins from the first one above the EX
the 35th pinshould line up with the IN mark and the gasket surface to the rear

Anything is possible with enough money, and I would like to see the end product. However consider the frame on the ZL will not be up the stress the ZX can generate, and is with its age is probably a little fatigued. But you'll need to measure dimensions of the donor engine - where bolts are and engine mounts go. The stock drive shaft will probably not be able to be retained.

Ck the fuel tank petcock for proper position. Fuel is filling your cylinders and pasing the rings into the crankcase. Diluted oil will take out bearings. Good luck. I you must, turn off your fuel when parked and not running.

Your plugs are easy to change follow your plug leads remove the rubber caps , and with a socket remove them , replace with new , clip on caps again and that should be it? Good luck. Ps replace with NGK type plug.

"Valve Clearance (when cold)" "Inlet: 0.13-0.18 mm" and that "Exhaust : 0.18-0.23 mm". Careful when doing the valves . on some bikes it changes the valve timing? i'd be contacting your bike shop and ask. Good luck...........

If the mechanic can not figure it out, take it to a different mechanic as it does does not sound right, to me.

Could be your bendix spring wore out , Try replacing it !

I can give you the part numbers for the manuals you will need, not sure your year but the supplement manual part number is 99924-1185-50 then you will need a base manual that part number is 99924-1055, I would look on eBay, you find a lot of manuals on there.

oil filter is in a ribbed circular housing underneath the motor...2 drains...one near the oil filter and one under the crank.

First thing to check is the alternator /starter chain and tensioner which is located next to the clutch. Unfortunately if these are o.k. then the problem is the starter clutch...due to a bad bit of design from kawasaki the upper gearbox clusters have to come out to get at this. Obviously this means splitting the cases but if it makes you feel better the top end can stay intact. It sounds like a worse job than it actually is though...

Probable best to take the carbs back, as there may be something clogging one of the float needle jets.
Although the bike is getting old, the floatlevels dont normally wear out of adjustment, as they have a neoprene end on one end of the needle and a spring loaded pin on the float end,
Unless there is damage to one of the floats.

Note ethanol in fuel can affect some carb parts like neoprene seals

This is probably your best chance of locating the parts:
http://www.norkisgroup.com/pages/contact-norkis
Contact NORKIS and see if they can help you.
http://www.norkisgroup.com/contact/?cid=3 (under support)

Kawasaki Motors (Phils.) Corporation (Kawasaki Philippines) is the official retailer of Kawasaki parts. They usually only stock parts for 200cc motorcycles and below.
This is their contact page:
http://www.kawasakileisurebikes.ph/contactus.php

Customer Support Division

Spare Parts Department Fax Number : (632) 824 - 3078 E-mail : [email protected]
[email protected]


Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Japanese bikes change things so often it gets near impossible to find direct replacments.
You may want to try klsupply.com (K&L Supply Co.). Back when I used them for older bikes they seemed to have a good selection of after market direct replacement parts.
You may also be able to look up OEM parts and numbers at Riva's web site (search "riva" or "riva motorcycle parts"). Its a dealer ship with a parts locater where you can view the microfishe and get part numbers.
Lastly you can also try Tucker Rocky. Its a wholesaler but that is one of the larger suppliers to the motorcycle parts stores.

carbs are dirty or need ajust--when choke is on it supplies fuel until runnin temp then low speed jets take over but are clogged with varnish--buy a clymer manual for bike procedures

What kind of exhaust do you have? If you jetted the carbs you will ned an exhaust sytem capable of handleling the extra volume of gas and air, how is your breather is it clean and unobstructed? I would go with a K$N style aqnd a Kerker header on this. I used that set up on my KZ 1000 with 32mm carbs and could break the rear loose at 65mph in 3rd gear. Bottmom line is all theses have to work in unison to get all the power you need. Breather, carb and exhaust. You also might want to check your spark plugs for correct gap and wear.

you might need a complete tune up like plugs. wires. carb adjustment

mostly carb adjustment

good luck.

If the compression is OK and the head gasket is OK there is possibly a crack in the head.
Hard work sometimes rebuilding engines to find more faults.

http://www.drumhillcycle.com/ Check out this site for your used motorcycle part needs.