20 Most Recent 1987 kawasaki ZL 1000 A1 Eliminator Questions & Answers

Find the lowest hose, and disconnect it,

That all depends on the jets and air fuel mixture screw settings

Hi I had the same problem on same bikeThe relay board in the junction box has brokenSolder points on the relays If you can solder drill out the plastic welds holdingThe box together and resolder the relays Make sure everything works after especially your Cooling fan Good luck happy trails keep your stick on the ice

There is a float system in the carburetor that acts like a shut off when the carburetor has enough fuel in the float bowl. Fuel flows through the inlet through a needle and seat (float valve) to fill the bowl, when the needle and seat gets worn enough, fuel will seep past the needle even if there is plenty of fuel in the bowl. The fuel will leak into the air cleaner as well as the cylinder. Check the oil level on the bike as well, excess fuel will run into your crankcase.

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/

hi,this problem is normally caused by the float needles inside the carb bowls not sealing properly,which will allow the carb bowls to keep filling untill they overflow,once they have overflowed the petrol will make its way through the inlet manifold past the valves in the head and then down to the pistons,past the piston rings and into the sump,it is not difficult to replace the needle valve seats once you have the carbs off,all you do is take the carb bowls off (4 screws),pop out the pin that holds the floats in,the needle valve is connected to the floats normally by a little spring type clip,unscrew the needle valve seat(brass) and remove,screw in the new one..job done..replace the needle valve as well..hope this helps...cheers

Pull spark plugs and if appears to be burning clean, then maybe have a look at air filters, possible brake dragging, engine oil as specified by manufacturer. Does it run good and accelerate as normal?

hiya

i found this site that has many parts avalible for you to look at

http://www.kawasakimotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=10817&pageID=E1611

hope this helps


John

Remove bolts on air box. 4 I tthink

17mm

you have a bare wire and when it vibrates a certain way it shorts

carbs need cleaning inside

the lever can be straightened with heat and gentle force,check local agents for lamp

no fuel getting into the combustion chamber. the fuel gets there through the carbs. are you getting fuel to the carbs? is your fuel pump working? fuel filter clean? carbs clean?

only the usaul problems for a bike that age. camchain, listen for any rattling noise from the motor, and also shim adjustment, or valve clearance, and carburetta syncranization. Other than that, they are bullet proof! I had one and put over 180,000 km on it.

Your fuel pump has gone dry, it needs more than just a crank to get it primed. Starting the engine just how you are will get the pump primed and going, you should be all set. Leaving the bike only a few days will do this. Hope this helps.

What kind of oil are you using? mine was like that when i ran it on motul 20w50.. stopped when I went back to 10w40.

Since you are getting sparks to all the plugs thn the problem could be tht of fuel to those two cylinders 2 & 3.
What was the condition of the spark plugs in those two cylinders? ( 2 & 3 ), were they wet or dry?
Try te following,
Swap the spark plugs form the firing cylinders and fit them to the cylinder 2 & 3.
Try to block up the air intake side of those two cylinder carburator and start the bike's engine see if they would fire, if they do fire thn theres a problem to those two carburators, fuel is not going into the combustion chamber, the problem could be float level , or the jets may need to be blown with compressed air.
Hope this helps!

Hi again and welcome back to FixYa,

Appreciate much the rating on your first post.

Yes on the carbs. At this point, perhaps your best move would be:

• inspect the burn marks of each sparkplug. This would be your basis which carb needs closer attention; very light brown - lean (too much air / too little fuel) or very dark - rich (too much fuel / too little air);
• carb pull down, full dis-assembly. All non-rubber parts must be soaked in carb cleaner;
• a can of compressed air maybe used on the small holes;
• for the age of the bike, special attention on hoses ends that may have splits, cracks or just plain loose (fuel & vacuum);
• carb sync even just to check / make sure all are even.
  

Incidentally, there is a California version of this year/model. For emission control purposes, performance has been toned down. With so many attachments to the fuel lines and vacuums, it is possible that there is a leak somewhere.

Cheers.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, your description of "...off and on it shows me it has the power it should..." is significant as it indicates that it would not be a mechanical / engine problem.

Offhand, almost always, erratic performance and/or intermittent power could be: 1) electrical (least likely), 2) air/fuel mix (likely) and/or 3) carb (most likely).

Interesting though if as you posted, the bike has "...new...carbs...". If it were so, then a possibility to consider is that the carbs need synchronization.

Preliminary checks:

• at cold start, determine which cylinders heat up faster / slower using water spray;
• determine the colors of the burns / tips of the sparkplugs at what cylinder;
• loosen the drain screws of each carb and collect the fuel from the drain hose. Compare the quantity and quality amongst all 4 bowls.

Incidentally, is everything stock or aftermarket items installed such as free/open breathers air filters and/or exhaust system?

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.