20 Most Recent
2001 KTM EXC 125 Questions & Answers
No power band
fuel starvation problem possibly in the fuel line or filter and cap breather as well.not ignition likely
Clutch
where it doesnt fully engage but I am having the opposite problem where I can not get my clutch to disengage.
I have the top cable adjuster-adjusted so there is about a nickels (few mm) worth of play where i can pull the clutch lever that much before the cable really starts pulling. With it on the stand when i start it and put it in gear the wheel spins (enough that it is hard to stop the wheel and if i do the bike stalls) even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in and when riding it, the clutch doesnt actually seem to engage until the lever is almost all the way out. I adjusted the cable adjuster and unscrewed it as far as it can unscrew which was considerably further out then it is with the nickels worth of play and it changed nothing aside from the tightness of the lever/cable. On the stand the wheel still spins and stalls if i put enough force on it to stop the wheel and when riding the clutch still seems to engage and the same point (where the lever is almost all the way out).
I think when I am on it and put it in gear, it doesnt stall becuase i keep the Rs up and my weight keeps the back tire from turning and slips the clutch??
Any comments, ideas, advice, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance. ,well , the most obvious is a worn out clutch..BUT it can also be from the plates sticking together, or the springs are beyond their service limit. you can check and change all this at once....
1) drain the oil
2) take off the clutch cover
3) loosen the screws that hold the pressure plate
4) check the springs (they should be a specific length , over time the length decreases)
5) take out pressure plate
6) check every plate , you can check thickness with a good caliper.( if the pads on the thick discs look worn or are not there the clutch is worn and you need a new set of plates)
if they discs are still in good condition try cleaning them with a solvent like alcohol etc...but be carefull you do not use a aggressive solvent as the pads are made from cork and some solvents will damage the cork .
If you change the pads the best thing to do is change the metal and the friction pads aswell as the springs.
there's a trick to use a clutch that's worn down alot and that is to add another metal plate to the outside so your total stack height becomes higher , however this will only help you 1 or 2 heats after that the clutch is toast either way.
hope thats FIXYA.,,,
Hi just rebuilt top end
im not sure, but i know that a lot of bike with aluminum pistons will knock when its cold because the aluminum piston hasn't heated up and expanded in the cylinder yet... but if it doesn't go away when its warn then all i can figure is maybe the lower end needed to be rebuilt too.
Need manual would like to
www.ktm.com
Choose your model and there is a tab for "Downloads", most I looked at show back to 2008, so your 2009 should be there. The 2009 125SX manual is now listed under the 2011 150SX, I assume this is what you have.
1973 puch maxi it has
Make sure it turns over freely. Clean spark plug. Check air filter is clean and sound. Strip and clean the carb. Change the oil or at the very least, check the level is correct. Flush to tank (with new fuel) to get rid of any old fuel. and make sure the fuel tap flows fuel correctly.
LC4 640 SMC. Why no spark?
Have you checked battery connections. Run switch in the correct position? Checked spark plug for debris? Just thinking out loud..
Oil drain plug case cracked 2007 KTM 450 SXF
Drain oil. Use degreaser to clean area. Use JB Weld & allow to set up properly before adding oil.
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Engine bogging 2006 KTM 65 SX
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I HAVE A KTM 450 EXE 2004 MODEL AND I HAD TO REPLACE MY HEAD GASKET ANWATER PUMP SEALS AND NOW IVE GOT THE TINYEST DRIP OF COOLANT DRIPPING DOWN BEHIND THE FLY WHEEL WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS ?
It's a bad seal of the head gasket. You need a new head gasket and to scrape every particle of debris from the cylinder head and cylinder surfaces that mate with the head gasket. Use the factory specified gasket sealing compound and do a clean job - no blobs or pools of the stuff. The head gasket should lay flat on the surface of the top of the cylinder, and you have to make this surface free of grit, leftover sealant and any other foreign matter before you put the head in place and torque it down. Start with the head bolts just finger tight and then go by the manufacturer's specs for the pattern and amount of torque to be applied. Usually it is recommended that you get to the specified torque amount in stages, going around several times and repeating the torque pattern until you get that maximum rated amount. This will prevent the seal from shifting or warping and should make the gasket seal perfectly. This is the old school method of doing this job. and I have never seen this fail to produce good results. Take your time, be clean, and you will have the results you want.
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