Hi, Neotoma_nut if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full-on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=10069.0 EASY Empty Motorcycle Gas Tank https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1071123/Kymco-Xciting-500.html?page=1#manual Kymco Scooter Parts ATVs Scooter Parts Performance Scooter Parts... https://www.kymcousa.com/admin/dealeronly/ownerman/onroad/Xciting250-500_pre2008.pdf
The battery is charging up, that should be the reason the light is on. you had it in a dry state, and now you brought it back to life. It should charge up and the light will go out. Give it a few miles of steady running on the road, like about 50. Hope this helps.
Hi apexmt; You are right to question it's behaviour.. Somthing is wrong.It should get to normal operating temp. as soon as posible, and stay there. It's piston will not get to the correct size and shape till that happens. It seems (from a remote view point) that it's thermostat is a bit sticky. May I suggest that you have it replaced as a matter of urgency; as : "if the engine is too cold, it WILL WEAR OUT in no time at all". .And ..if the thermostat sticks in the closed position.. it will cook the engine. I do not know your machine ... yet, If you feel competent..... find its radiator...the top hose will more than likely lead you to its thermostat housing. Do this cold. Drain the coolant system. remove the housing and replace the thermostat. Do NOT put its radiator cap back on until it's reached operating temp.The top hose will get hot as the thermostat starts to open. So You Know for sure that it is full of the green coolant.