20 Most Recent 1980 Suzuki Gs 550 L - Page 7 Questions & Answers


Any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oils will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.

Suzuki Gs 550 L... | Answered on Oct 24, 2010


clutch pushrod should just pull out as it should be a 2 piece clutch pushrod model, earlier models were 1 piece and you had to remove clutch cover and pressure plate to remove. hopefully the seal is ok.

Suzuki Gs 550 L... | Answered on Sep 02, 2010


You will never get brake fluid to run freely down to the caliper, you need to pump it down by pulling/pressing the brake lever and releasing it, untill the brakefluid gets expelled at the caliper(press and release, press and release)

Suzuki Gs 550 L... | Answered on Aug 18, 2010


Sea Foam get it for Autoparts store

Suzuki Gs 550 L... | Answered on Aug 15, 2010


Hi, Michael sounds like you got the wrong switch, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Ignition+switch+Suzuki+600+SRAD&sxsrf=ACYBGNSJjyMcsFjg6gO6kdb8jApyjV6fUg:1580157871099&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiM8eHk0qTnAhVupVkKHZhOCnQQsxh6BAgMECw&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Switch-Suzuki-GSXR600-04-05/dp/B06XNP17BF
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/896122/Suzuki-Gsx-R600.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Allan before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/battery-not-charging.552449/#post-7752073
https://www.gsxr.com/threads/gsxr-charging-system-101.225306/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevgFfi_oaY
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1212456/Suzuki-Gsr750.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 24, 2020


Hi, Zwelithini your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/idle-issue-then-black-smoke.356474/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YfEIP6eRzs
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/813897/Suzuki-Gsx-R750.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.gixxer.com/threads/k8-750-owners-manual.378746/

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


YOU NEED A NEW HEAD AS THE THREADS HAVE BEEN STRIPPED ON PLUG HOLES

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 21, 2020


Hi, Wayne for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/coolant-check-on-a-suzuki-marauder.110253/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html?page=33
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/824096/Suzuki-Vz800.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 18, 2020


Hi, Stacy you need to repost your question under the ATV category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 16, 2020


Hi, Richard and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. A failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen the gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from the intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1321428000
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jPjq_aAy-8
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165889/Suzuki-Ls650-Savage.html
https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://www.savageriders.com/verslagen/transfer/2002_LS650P_Owners_Manual.pdf

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 16, 2020


Hi, Paul for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://forums.banditalley.net/general-mechanical-technical/starter-motor-replacement/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYhEz6uVDDM
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/826775/Suzuki-Gsf1250.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1058960/Suzuki-Gsx1250fa.html

Suzuki... | Answered on Jan 12, 2020


Hi, Mkfld02 you to repost your question in the ATV category, not Motorcycles, Thanks Gregg

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 25, 2019


suggest you get a manual and replace it

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 20, 2019


if the battery is more than a few yrs old its probably no good. check charged voltage . it should be at least 12.4 volts at rest. after its charged up. if not time for a new one.

Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 20, 2019


What cc is it ?

Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 01, 2019


Go to Google and type 85 Suzuki murader Factory service manual PDF download. Look for a sight called manuallib. Factory service manuals are free online for bikes of you know where to look it will detailed description with pics on what you need to know.

Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2019

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