20 Most Recent 1981 Suzuki Gs 550 L Questions & Answers

from fuel tap to centre of carbs two pipes one fuel one vacuum

floats will go to top, as the name says. should cut off fuel just below top., but that would not give a problem if cutting off early, fuel would still be available to engine. So what is your problem?

Floater height i have adjusted to 2/3 level of all carb reservoirs individually and to date it has been performing to the best. 23km/ltr dual carb GS450E.

It could be jetted too rich,the choke could be engaging at WOT,or,you could most likely have weak valve springs which are "floating" the valves at higher RPM's.Also,you might try lowering the needles in the carbs by a couple clicks.Good Luck!

2" ID in a uni or k&n should fit the back of your carbs If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/brandon_79b580f5a99c4386

You can narrow the search by looking for any twin lead 12 volt points ignition coil, as long as you dont get a cdi, or electronic ignition coil, any point coil will do the job

check the inlet rubbers between the engine and carbs...it sounds like you've got an air leak

in the front of the engine..lower side, well bottom side, between the exhaust headers

not sure on the exact specs but flip the carb upside down and look how the floats look to the horizon of the earth. Sounds silly but that is how pretty much all bike mechanics set them, just make them level to the earth. Good luck

release the chain with the cam tensor located underneath the carbs then line up the notches on the wheel and have lots of patience.

Usually you adjust the shocks for the condition you are in and however you feel like riding, the bike is meant to be a cruiser, just adjust it probably on number 2 to start with and drive around for a little and keep tweakin with it until you are comfortable with it. If you arent sure where the adjuster is if you are sitting on the bike it is on your left sticking out in a cylinder shape.

remove airbox, rubbers, throttle, choke, gas tank (disconnect fuel line and vacuum first), valve breather, rpm attachment near the front of the valve cover, exhaust headers, remove valve cover (place somewhere you won't step on it) remove cams(i'm sure theres a right order to take them off but I never really had a problem with taking them off any order) remove bolts on the outside of the cam on the outside of the engine block which should be covered with rubber fittings, then remove the bolts directly on the bottom of the valves then make sure there arent any other bolts holding it on, i'm not exactly sure if there is, then pull up and hope it comes off.

well if you are sitting on the bike and looking down at the motor it is 1-4-2-3

Cleaning the carbs should have nothing to do with the switch not working, but look for the 3 yellow cables that are coming out of the starter that should be above the airbox maybe? not sure I had mine all over the place but if they aren't connected it will not start and I know sometimes things get knocked out from removing the carbs.

It isn't hard at all, just remove the choke from the carbs then pull back on the end you took out of it and push back on the spring and twist the end so it comes off, if your new cable came with these its still pretty handy to keep around, especially the springs. But after that, loosen the screw that is underneath the choke adjuster and pull it out then loosen the end from the choke lever and just simply yank it out from the bike. Theres nothing really there that could get in the way besides the breather in the valve cover so you should be fine. After that simply do everything backwards that you took it off.

There may not be sufficient fuel reaching the engine to run the bike. Just enough is reaching for it to idle, which is base minimum. So the carbeuretter needs cleaning and adjustment.

We do not sell bike here on Fixya.

check this link,, and read the reviews,, people have used this for the choke http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-front-brake-choke-cable?mg=3629&t=1&td=1 setting the carbs should really be done by someone who has the right tools and equip.

No, one bad plug wire would not stop the others sparking. Does your bike have points, if so I can help as I have a wiring diagram.
Go through the obvious first, check all connection are clean and secure, esp in the area where you have fitted the coils. Did you change the coils as the bike didnt run before? or was it just running poorly?

Make sure the bike is in neutral. First make sure you have at least 12V across the large terminals of the solenoid. If not then test between the battery and the 2 terminals. One should give you the same measurement that you got with the first test(minus about 0.3V), the other about 0.3V. To test the solenoid itself short circuit the two large terminals on it with a screwdriver. The starter should activate. If you hear nothing from the starter the solenoid is bad.