20 Most Recent 1981 Suzuki Gs 550 L - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Look online for pictures of GS650, 750 or 850. All have the same plug wiring setup.

REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR STATOR, THEY ARE A REAL PROBLEM IN THIS YEAR, IT IS UNDER THE SIDE COVER INSIDE THE ENGINE/TRANS CASE, U MUST DRAIN THE OIL BEOFRE THE COPVER IS PULLED AS IT IS A WET STATOR..

Hello Maria to remove the spark plugs you will need a 3/8th drive13/16th spark plug socket with universal and a extension.removing the spark plug,first pull the plug caps off then use the socket wrench turn the spark plugs counter clockwise to remove and install the new plugs.turn the plugs until they are seated and tighten them 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
also depending on the age of the plug wires and caps the caps you can replace yourself the wires you may want to find some one to do that for you. with age they will start to leak and loose voltage to your plugs

Very common problem, You will have to remove the carb.s and clean them. Gas dries and turns to varnish after 3-4 months, this dried gas clogs up the jets and ports in the carb.s. If you chose to do this your self there are adjustment screws on the bottom do not mess with these screws. Just clean the bowls and jets, clean one at the time so you do not mix up parts.

The carburetors need to be cleaned most likely clogged jets and passage ways.the low speed jet is what you want to pay close attention to make sure the are clean.
If you are going to do it yourself pay close attention do not mix up the carburetor parts always lay out the parts from each carb in the from left to right 1234 separation.
I suggest you get the service manual fir this bike before you attempt doing the work yourself.

Well is it like a rattle snake, no seriously, your cylinders are firing accordingly because of in correct timing or jets. If you recently did an overhaule, trace back your steps and see if you amiss on anything. Happy hunting.

starter gets its ground from mount bolts the wire is probably starter connection to start solenoid. Posative from battery runs to start solenoid on the B side and the starter connects to S side.

1. did you replaced the fuse with the same
specification or amperes as the original?you must
replace it as by the original becos if you will put a
lower ampere,then it cant carry the load thats why
there is a blowing of fuse..
2. check the started,there is a posibility that the rewind or coil has damaged and the watts & ampere of the said starter might be going high.

Regarding on the problem that it wont fire.Check the spark plug,claen the carburator and set the right timing.

spray some wd 40 or other inthe area-get creative with a screwdriver and a repair book

yes they do.

check for vacuum leaks, old carb gaskets [rubber seals may be leaking] check your fuel filter,but it sounds like an intake air leak

did you adjust the iddle screws? Those black plugs need to be installed. Those carbs pull all gas threw the main jets. If you remove the black plug and look closely you will see a small tunnel going from that tube to the main jet tub. The fuel gets pulled threw that tiny hole from the main tube. (This also puzzled me the first time I saw one, don't worry, that was the first thing I thought of doing also, but since then, I have found tons of bikes and boats like this) I found mine runs best on 2-1/2 turns on the idle screws. Also try sincronizing you carbs, the cheep way to do this is by blocking them open slightly and checking the butterflies with a feeler gauge to see if they all open the same amount. I also found that sometimes it could be as simple as the choke slide not returning completely back to the proper position, this will cause the diaphrams to not operate properly. Good luck and hope I helped a little.

1981 used selenium rectifiers which were fairly low amperage. Not likely that overvoltage is the problem, but rather a failed rectifier and not changing to DC voltage (half wave). Get a 50-amp silicon rectifier from Radio Shack and replace it. Better yet, if you now have a headlight law in your state, change to a 50-amp bridge rectifier and gain more charging from the same alternator... be sure to get some help with the conversion from simple rectifier in-line to the battery and a bridge rectifier connecting both battery terminals to both alternator and ground.

Loosen the rear axle nut mounting the wheel to the swing arm, then loosen the lock bolt on the top of the chrome adjuster ( left and right adjusters ), then loosen the lock nut on the long adjuster screw. Run the nut about 1/2" down the length of the adjuster screw. Now turn the adjuster screws equally in a clockwise direction to remove the excess slack from the chain. There should be index lines on the swing arm that the single index line on the chrome adjuster is referenced to. Example; If the chrome index line meets up with perhaps the fourth index mark on the swing arm on the left side, the right side should be at the same position. This keeps the wheel in alignment. When the adjustment is finished tighten the axle nut then tighten the adjuster lock nuts and then tighten the lock bolt on top of the chrome adjusters.

Leave some slack in the chain. Mid-chain you should be able to move the chain up and down about one and one half inches. If the chain can be lifted at the rear sprocket it is too loose. Lubricate the chain and the control cables on the bike. What condition are the front and rear sprockets in? The teeth should be bluntly rounded at the tip. If the teeth are sharp at the tip, or getting that way, then the sprockets are way past time to be replaced. Note that a worn sprocket can quickly ruin a new chain.

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see for the electrical switch is working properly some time the contact might make a issue for it. but there is one issue with the problem you mention that there is red & black wire but where exactly are this wire located in the motorcycle till then do refer & let me know till then see you sir...!

You may need to check your cables to the starter for high resistance. They are 28 years old, and can get more resistant over time.

clutch pushrod should just pull out as it should be a 2 piece clutch pushrod model, earlier models were 1 piece and you had to remove clutch cover and pressure plate to remove. hopefully the seal is ok.

question edited for clarity. Question moved from Suzuki Cars to model category. Wiring https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+Suzuki+GS550L+fuse+block+wiring+diagram Service Manual

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After replacing all rubber and brass parts, set up the float height with the new needle valve.

need to adjust the cabke at both ends, as the pin to actuate seems like it is too far in, opperting the clucch, use the manual.