did you adjust the iddle screws? Those black plugs need to be installed. Those carbs pull all gas threw the main jets. If you remove the black plug and look closely you will see a small tunnel going from that tube to the main jet tub. The fuel gets pulled threw that tiny hole from the main tube. (This also puzzled me the first time I saw one, don't worry, that was the first thing I thought of doing also, but since then, I have found tons of bikes and boats like this) I found mine runs best on 2-1/2 turns on the idle screws. Also try sincronizing you carbs, the cheep way to do this is by blocking them open slightly and checking the butterflies with a feeler gauge to see if they all open the same amount. I also found that sometimes it could be as simple as the choke slide not returning completely back to the proper position, this will cause the diaphrams to not operate properly. Good luck and hope I helped a little.
1981 used selenium rectifiers which were fairly low amperage. Not likely that overvoltage is the problem, but rather a failed rectifier and not changing to DC voltage (half wave). Get a 50-amp silicon rectifier from Radio Shack and replace it. Better yet, if you now have a headlight law in your state, change to a 50-amp bridge rectifier and gain more charging from the same alternator... be sure to get some help with the conversion from simple rectifier in-line to the battery and a bridge rectifier connecting both battery terminals to both alternator and ground.
Loosen the rear axle nut mounting the wheel to the swing arm, then loosen the lock bolt on the top of the chrome adjuster ( left and right adjusters ), then loosen the lock nut on the long adjuster screw. Run the nut about 1/2" down the length of the adjuster screw. Now turn the adjuster screws equally in a clockwise direction to remove the excess slack from the chain. There should be index lines on the swing arm that the single index line on the chrome adjuster is referenced to. Example; If the chrome index line meets up with perhaps the fourth index mark on the swing arm on the left side, the right side should be at the same position. This keeps the wheel in alignment. When the adjustment is finished tighten the axle nut then tighten the adjuster lock nuts and then tighten the lock bolt on top of the chrome adjusters.
Leave some slack in the chain. Mid-chain you should be able to move the chain up and down about one and one half inches. If the chain can be lifted at the rear sprocket it is too loose. Lubricate the chain and the control cables on the bike. What condition are the front and rear sprockets in? The teeth should be bluntly rounded at the tip. If the teeth are sharp at the tip, or getting that way, then the sprockets are way past time to be replaced. Note that a worn sprocket can quickly ruin a new chain.
see for the electrical switch is working properly some time the contact might make a issue for it.
but there is one issue with the problem you mention that there is red & black wire but where exactly are this wire located in the motorcycle till then do refer & let me know till then see you sir...!
Hi, Davalosestev before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://advrider.com/f/threads/1982-gs850-charging-problems.1078297 HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... Suzuki GS850G Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/1982_GS850G_Owners_Manual.pdf
is it the carbs with diaphrams on top ? check they seated correctly ! if slide type then renove filter and get a rag to block slightly the cyl thats off as you run engine and see if it starts to fire , if yes then see if it runs without rag acting as a choker ! if not then clean and rebalance the 4 carbs so they open at same time !
Sounds like you may have a bigger problem than a broken cable. First without engine running use the clutch and check how easy the gear lever shifts from neutral to first. Push the bike forward and let the clutch lever out slowly do you feel it begin to bite. If not readjust the cable as per the user manual then try again. If you can feel the bite when pushing try again with the engine running. If still no go I would look at the clutch operating mechanism and push rod.