20 Most Recent 1987 Suzuki GSX-R 750 H Questions & Answers

I just bought a gsxr 1000 and lost the key how do I start it

I suggest you get your 1987 motorcycle back to original factory specs by your Suzuki dealer for best results.

I am not a complete expert in motorcycles, but I can give you as much valueable help as I can since I helped my friend with his motorcycle.

hiya

found this on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/suzuki-gsxr750-f-g-h-original-wiring-loom-vgc-/260540284949?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ca9694015

hope it helps

John

There should be 6 wires, (Orange with Red lines, Red, Orange, Orange with Yellow lines, Orange with Green line,and Brown). O/R is your ON wire followed by R, the rest as written are the order around the switcth ending with Br ( so O/R is in the middle of Br and R). Try if it works. Good luck

Have you tried to get Haynes manual for that model? or have you try to Google it?

hi,the two brass inlets are fuel lines (for cv type carbs),have a look at your fuel tap,if there is only 1 large outlet that is for fuel,if there is a small one also then that is a vacuum line,most of the h models were a straight gravity fed carb system with no vacuum pump,also if you have flatslide carbs(stock on 85 models,some people fitted them to later models for better throttle response,i have them on my race bike..a worthwhile mod!!!),they will also be straight gravity feed...hope this helps ..cheers

On the front calipers should be little nozzles sticking out that are covered with a rubber cap and that have nuts made into them. (maybe 10mm?)
Loosen these just enough to let the air out of the line then squeeze and hold the front brake. While holding the front brake tighten the nozzles. Once the nozzles are tight pump the brake lever and it should tighten.
Then check your brake fluid level and add fluid in needed.

If this does not work, there may be other problems with the calipers and or master cylinder.

have you tried replacing plugs if not replace also so try a different heat range buddy get back to me

If its a slow leak. Yes Normal. If its pouring out. you might want to check your fuel lines. If it continues to come out you should replace your gas lines immediately.

valve clearances for intake & exhaust are the same 0.10-0.15mm (0.004-0.006inch)

nope i have the same system and you have to unscrew the oil line and then you make sure the filter stays open end up and slide it out the right side..easier to take out then put back in ..ive changed my oil twice and both time its a pain in the %&#!₪to put back in but it does go on without removing the headers

I have just accquired the same bike in showroom condition (less than 150km) Since it has been kept in a display showroom for 9 years, the lubricants and some parts are expired ( although they still look brand new) . I´ll be ordering replacement parts, apart from getting new tires, I have decided to up grade the air & oil filters to K&N,put in a Yoshimura RS3 Can for that extra touch . You saying I should go for O.E. and not risk engine recalibration? I do know that the Carbs on these bikes are tricky... Can you advise me on your tire size too? I´m thinking of going 1 size wider in the front 130/65. Or is the original size good enuf.

The hissing is not normal. What you describe sounds like a head gasket going bad. As to the idle problem, clean the carbs. Leave the floats alone; the carbs are not over-flowing and the cylinders are getting gas. The floats do not get balancing, they work properly or they don't.

Safty switch on kick stand Or safty switch on clutch lever And check battery posts to see if there tight MOPAR KENNY

Usually in the center of the 4 carbys. Or, at the end of your accelerator cable where it goes to the carbys.

has it got a spark at the plugs??....has it got petrol in it?...& are the plugs wet with petrol when you try to start it?....the kill switch is not off?........1st see if you got a spark at the plugs...then petrol....has it been stood?...the carbs maybe need cleaning if it has?

we are not a parts service, but a motorcycle salvage yard would be your best bet, you can also replace the "O" ring seales in the valve to repair it.

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.