Top 10 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Questions & Answers

To remove that arm, the inner primary must come off, but try this first:
About 75% of the time, just replacing that allen screw will solve the problem. Don't just tighten it, replace it. Make sure the arm is slid all the way on the splines. The screw usually doesn't loosen, it stretches.

the oil drain plug is on the bottomof the oil tank under the bike it is a bolt with an allen bolt hole in the middle going from frnt to back the tranny bolt goes straight up in about the same spot and the primary is the small torx fastner at the bottom of the primarry cover

Yes, The first thing you do is disconnect the battery ,,,Harley says to pr3vent accidental starts, but if you dont, your going to short something out..... You are going to have to remove the outer primary to get to the jackshaft. Disassemble and pull the jackshaft then you can unbolt and remove the starter ,,,,,

The plug ( 3/4 wrench ) under the trans when your looking at the trans cover ( right side of the bike ) is the trans. If you drained that replace it with 24 oz. of either HD trans fluid or I prefer Golden Spectro 75/140 ( much better shifting on a Harley ( trust me you'll never go back to HD trans fluid ) the drain for your motor oils is on the same pan ( on the bottom ) but it's the plug facing the front of the bike. Looks just like the trans plug. Both use a 11105 o ring which you should replace everytime ( just for piece of mind as well as leaks ) you need 4 quarts of 20/59 HD oil. Hope it helps.

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The final drive belt can be replaced using regular tools for the most part. You will need a way to "Lock" the primary chain so you can retorque the compensator sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is left handed threads so you'll need a torque wrench that will torque left handed fasteners.

First, disconnect the battery. To start with, you're going to have to pull the outer and inner primary cases to get to the belt. This means that all of the clutch components are going to have to come out. This can be done at home if you have a good (I mean good) air wrench. The compensator sprocket (engine sprocket, right hand thread) is Loctited at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch hub nut is torqued to 60-80 foot pounds left handed thread. Make sure your torque wrench will work with left handed threaded fasteners. Take the starter "jack shaft" off. You'll have to remove the starter as well to get the inner primary off. On the FLHTC, I think there is one bolt on the back side of the inner primary with a large braided ground ******** it. This bolt must come out if it's there. Without going outside and getting a book, I think there are four bolts on the engine end of the inner primary, the two starter bolts (3/8" socket head bolts), two bolts or nuts on the inside at the transmission end, and the one bolt down low on the backside of the inner primary. The inner primary should come off easily once you get all the bolts out. You should not have to pry it off. If it doesn't come off easily, double check for bolts that you may have missed.

Once you remove the clutch assembly, you will see the clutch release rod sticking out of the mainshaft. If you pull on this shaft and it comes out, you'll have to pull the right side of the transmission cover to reinstall the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing). It's held on by a very small circlip. If the rod pulls out, the circlip has come off and the throwout bearing has fallen down into the bottom of that chrome cover on the right hand side of the transmission.

Once you get the inner primary off, you will see the front belt pulley. Now, you must remover the rear wheel and the swing arm to get the belt off. You'll need to raise the rear wheel and support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. You'll need to support the transmission as well since the swingarm acts as the rear motor mount on the transmission. The rubber bushings in the swingarm may have to be repostioned in order to get the swing arm back into position. I use a piece of theaded rod, a couple of nuts and a couple of large washers. I put the threaded rod through the swing arm with the washers and nuts inbetween the bushings. Use the nuts and washer to "press" the bushing towards the outside of the swingarm, spread the bushings so the swingarm will go back into position.

Now, you can work the old belt out. It is much easier if you can get the front belt pulley off but this requires some special tools. A "pulley locking device" and a front pulley locknut wrench. The front pulley locknut is left handed thread and torques to 125 foot pounds with red Loctite. Work the new belt into position and get the swingarm through it. Do not bend the new belt in a radius any smaller than about 4". Doing so will damage the belt and cause premature breakage. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

When you torque the compensator sprocket and the clutch nut, you will have to use a "locking bar" to lock the engine sprocket and clutch outer drum to prevent them from turning while you torque the two nuts. The engine does not have enough resistance to allow you to torque the nuts. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (red) in the compensator nut (right hand thread) and one line in the clutch hub nut, Left handed thread. Torque to specs I gave you in the second paragraph.

Check for proper clutch operation, proper final belt tension, proper rear brake operation before riding the bike. As you can see, this isn't exactly a "beginner's" job. It is fairly complicated but it can be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. I would suggest purchasing a service manual specifically for the bike you're working on.

Are you sure its a pump or a relay? relay is under the seat or under the cover on left hand side cant remember on a 98. also check the petcock fuel filter it gets pretty stuffed with ****. part is $9.00

Most Ultras that I've ever seen only had one bolt on the very backside of the seat, Remove the bolt, lift the rear of the seat and pull backwards, the seat comes off.

First disconnect the battery negative post. Then, unplug the two wires that run from the regulator to the front part of the engine. Follow the remaining wire from the regulator to the either the battery positive post or to the starter connection and disconnect that wire. Remember how it was routed through the engine and frame area. Unbolt the regulator and bolt the new replacement back up in it's place. There may be a "star type" lock washer between the regulator and the frame on all the mounting bolts. Put his washer back on or in the case there isn't one, put one on each mounting bolt. The purpose of this is to ensure the regulator has a good ground. If if doesn't have a good ground, it will not work correctly. Plug the plug from the regulator into the socket on the front of the engine and run the remaining long wire along the frame and back to where the original wire came from, either the battery positive post or the starter connection. Some people cut the original wire and splice in the new wire from the new regulator but I don't recommend it. It's a problem waiting to happen. Reconnect the battery negative post. When working with a battery, always disconnect the negative post first and reconnect the negative last. This prevents damage to the battery or motorcycle and possibly prevents injury to you due to arcing the battery against the frame ground.

Good Luck
Steve
Steve

Revove power comander& see w/ happens...I have a 09 flh also I installed a TFI fuler.. wow test Engine light being on. That is the sign there is a Code that is stored. This may help you.




Harley iagnostic Codes

To access codes

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word ¡°diag¡± should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" (on mine the ¡°t¡± looks more like a ¡°¨\¡± )with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer



To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC¡¯s the code will be displayed or the word ¡°none¡± will appear if there are no DTC¡¯s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

1 - Record the codes.

2 - If DTC¡¯s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC¡¯s again by repeating steps 1 to 3 If the code is current it will reappear.

4 ¨C Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

5 ¨C Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

--------------------------

HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module

Priority/DTC/Fault condition
1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error
2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error
3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low
4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High
5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM
6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM
7. P1003 System relay contacts open
8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted
9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low
10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed
11. P1009 Incorrect Password
12. P1010 Missing Password
13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range
14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range
15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent
16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low
17. P0108 Map Sensor High
18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error
19. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error
20. P1270 TGS Validation Error
21. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault
22. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
23. P2123 TGS1 High
24. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open
25. P2128 TGS2 High
26. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
27. P0120 TPS1 Range Error
28. P0220 TPS2 Range Error
29. P0122 TPS1 Low
30. P0123 TPS2 High/Open
31. P0222 TPS2 Low
32. P0223 TPS2 High/Open
33. P2135 TPS Correlation Error
34. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance
35. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open
36. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)
37. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low
38. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High
39. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned
40. P1514 Air Flow Fault
41. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown
42. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low
43. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High
44. P0572 Brake Switch Low
45. P0117 ET Sensor Low
46. P0118 ET Sensor High
47. P0112I AT Voltage Low
48. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High
49. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
50. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
51. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
52. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
53. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
54. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
55. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low
56. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low
57. P0262 Front Injector High
58. P0264 Rear Injector High
59. P0562 Battery Voltage Low
60. P0563 Battery Voltage High
61. P0501 VSS Sensor Low
62. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open..
63. P1356 Rear Cylinder No C...[Message truncated]

Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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