2001 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road king - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Sensors doing what ?

Hi ! for drive belt, please visit the website below. If you need more information about a specific electrical issue you can reach me at [email protected].http://www.motorpartstore.com.Good luck and have a nice day

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You can try these guys: www.officialharleyparts.com

21mm I think

Small click or large click and one or more clicks??? Battery will need to have 12.6 VDC or more. Could be a bad starer winding got a bad ground or a battery that cannot provide the current needed ie a surface charge only but sulphated etc and weak when large draw such as starter is applied. OR could be the relay or if current is getting to the soenoid it could be a dirty or burned large contact plaet in the soldnoid.

There is none

If this is a Victory question you would possibly be better to post it as a Victory and not as a Harley question.

Ok, for "one-up riding", tire pressure is 30 psi in both tires. For "two-up riding", increase the rear pressure to 36 psi.

If the fuel pump is whistling, I doubt seriously if any gasoline additive is going to help but I don't guess it would hurt to try it.

Good Luck!

Did you pull any error codes? 1- Turn motorcycle ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch to RUN. 2- Push odometer reset button in & hold. 3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting will illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear. 4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing. 5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.) P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carburetor]) S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module) SP = speedometer T = tachometer 6 - To get the DTC in an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist. 7 - Record the codes. 8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed. NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear. 9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module. 10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF. On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected. "No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure. Repost any error codes you get.

http://www.officialharleyparts.com/harley/2001_all_flhr_i_ci_dom__and_int__models__ignition_circuit_sheet_1_of_2.jpg Kind of hard to see in the above wiring diagram, but the OPTIONAL tach is a PINK wire that goes to an 8 pin connector. Pin #3 is where it connects. From there is goes to the ignition harness, if a carb model. -OR- to the ECM harness if a FI model.

The same oil as the engine. However, you may be happier with Redline gear lube.

when was the last time you cleaned or changed the fuel filter?
sometimes it will clog from bad gas or dirt in the tank when under use, then partially clean itself from back pressure when bike is not running.
clean or change it and see if that helps

The speed sensor is on the transmission just to the right of the starter motor. The connector is a pigtail type plug in.If you remove the gasket sealing the cables on the back of the plug, u will see it. The green center piece inside the plug can be removed by pulling in the center peg with a flat, or needle nosed plier. Then lift the plastic "locks" holding each connector in place. Once you get that center piece out, just pull the connectors out.... When you reinstall they will "click" into place, and the center piece can be pushed back in...Pay attention to what color wires went where... A lot of owners get frustrated & just cut the wires & resplice them. I hope this helps.

All fuses i know are under lt sid e panel .. Air for shocks lt side just rear of shock bolt ,, not sure if your year has air in forks2 if does shrader valve is next to read on 2,, there is a switch to acctivate spots on headlite bezle facing rider if high beems on they go off.. your invited to our forum,, http://www.hdtalking.net/

If you've got anything rubbing the derby cover, you've got a real problem somewhere. Go to this site and look up your bike under OEM parts. http://www.bikebandit.com Stand the bike up fairly straight and take the derby cover off. Try to determine what is making the noise and get back with me. If your bike is a Road King or any other Big Twin, the clutch spring is a "diaphragm" type spring meaning it's a flat round disc spring. It's not a coil spring and nothing should be even near the derby cover. The only thing that I can possibly think of rubbing is the clutch adjuster screw lock nut may have come loose and worked it way out far enough to rub but I've never seen that happen because the clutch rotates the wrong way.

Steve

partway down the cable under a rubber sleeve there is an adjuster assembly. Try loosening this a little to gain some length on the cable, then re-tighten it when you have it connected. the left side also has one you can adjust you throttle response using these. Be sure you replace the rubber sleeves.

The bolts that hold the windshield on screw into blind holes. If the bolt is bottoming out before the windshield bracket is tight, you should have some chrome washers of a chrome strip that goes on the bolts.

Good luck
Steve

Thank you for the inquiry.
Rear Wheel: 2002 & Later 95 - 105 Ft-Lbs (2001 & Earlier 50 - 55 Ft Lbs)
Hope helps; keep us updated and remember to rate this answer.
Happy cruzin'
TF