Not sure of the year of your bike, but if you have an aftermarket alarm system, it is related to the alarm system itself or a bad relay in the circuit.
You need to start disconnecting things ( the ingition switch ) untill it'll hold a fuse. Don't keep blowing fuses, just touch the wires together where the fuse goes, ( it sholdn't spark when you find the problem ). The dash where the ingtion switch is crosses the wires under the cover. remove the cover and look for loose anything. The wires on the back of the switch come loose and then move to where they're touching ground. you may have to unbolt the switch to see the problem. with the switch loose ( raised up )
It's a diaphragm problem most likely. These things are notorious for giving problems. I always suggest people upgrade to a high quality manually operated petcock like a Pingle.
But, if you want to keep you vacuum operated petcock, you'll have to drain the tank of fuel. Get a large funnel and an empty gasoline can. Loosen the petcock with the large funnel to catch the fuel and guide it into the empty can. Unplug the fuel line and the vacuum line. Remove the petcock from the tank.
On the backside of the petcock, there's four small screws. Remove the screws and carefully take the back off the petcock. There's diaphragm, a needle and a small spring behind the plate. Hold the diaphragm up to the light and gently stretch it. Look for holes. You can get a replacement diaphragm from your local dealer.
Generally, to set the carb, you close the mixture screw, turning clockwise, then unscrew ounter clockwise at steps of about quarter turn each, counting or marking the steps for future reference Do not tighten the screw, or you will break it. You can start the job unscrewing two turns(often even 2.5), to establish a starting point. The detailed and whole procedure is quite complex and also depends on the model. Please also check the documents below, also finding a forum related to your Harley model may help:
It could be anything. The fact that the noise sounds louder when you let off on the throttle is probably because the engine is quieter then. Without being there where I could hear the noise, I'd say that you probably lost a roller tappet. More precisely, the roller bearing on the end of the tappet. These commonly fail between 25000 and 35000 miles although I've seen the fail as early as 13000 miles and run as long as 75000 miles. So, there is no set life on them.
If you continue to run the engine, you will do even more damage to it due to the influx of metallic shavings. The roller bearing on the end to the tappet looses is needle bearings. When this happens, the roller stops turning and starts wearing the lobe off of the camshaft it's running on. The metal is pumped to the oil filter that catches a lot of it but still some gets through.
I'm afraid that the only way to find the source of the problem is "exploratory surgery" until you find it.
The speedo signal is usually taken at the transmission. I think it's on the backside of the transmission on the right hand side of the bike. The sensor at the oil filter is the timing pulse sensor for engine control.
Your oil pan where you normally drain the oil when changing it IS the crankcase. I would also drain any gas from the fuel tank(s) and put fresh gas in it, and you will probably need a new battery.
A website called Motorcycleid.com that offers a variety of parts and accessories for your Harley Davidson, including battery mounts and hardware. I couldn't find the exact size of the bolt that fits the battery box on your 2005 Harley Davidson Lierider. However, you can try contacting Harley Davidson's customer service at 1-800-258-2464 and ask them for the bolt size . They may be able to help you locate the bolt or suggest an alternative
'd1ag' for Diagnostic or Service model.
To enter the diagnostic system and retrieve a trouble code, hold down the trip reset button while turning the ignition from off to on. This will allow you to cycle through the categories, and see which one indicates a code.Feb 9, 2021
just the light says so?"N" will not glow.
or both light N and bike will not push roll>
are brakes looked up, seized.
rolls with clutch pulled in?
ive driving vast motor cycle brands, even old harley 45 flat heads. back to 1963
some I have to jog the bike in gear key out ,clutch not touched.
to get the gears to free up and find neutral
the gear have a thing called dogs. that must un lock
also some bikes
have lots of switches to make a starter work
clutch switch
Neutral
kick stand.
the shifter parts my be a bit rusty
Chopper Bob would have been the best, but says 'Temporarily Close'. I would phone in case it is old COVID data.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Harley+Davidson+mechanic+near+Newark%2C+Ohio
Here are the dealerships in Ohio.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Harley+Davidson+Ohio
You don't say what's wrong, but you may be able to fix it yourself with the help of Fixya and YouTube.
Please always include full 'year make model' in all questions. There are over 10,000 categories including every Harley Davidson model, and most years. I edited your post to add Mr Davidson and put it in the HD generic maker category.
..
Replacing the kickstand on a Harley FXRT requires some disassembly and careful handling. Here are the general steps to replace the kickstand:
Preparation: Ensure you have the necessary tools, a new kickstand, and any replacement parts such as bushings or cotter pins.
Safety precautions: Place the motorcycle on a stable surface and secure it with a stand or by having someone hold it steady. Put on protective gear such as gloves and safety glasses.
Removing the cotter pin: Locate the cotter pin that holds the kickstand in place. It is usually located near the pivot point where the kickstand attaches to the frame. Use pliers or a cotter pin removal tool to remove the cotter pin.
Detaching the kickstand: Once the cotter pin is removed, carefully slide the kickstand out from its mounting bracket. You may need to gently tap it to loosen it if it's stuck. Take note of any bushings or spacers that may be present on the cotter pin side of the kickstand.
Inspecting and replacing parts: Examine the removed kickstand for any damage or wear. If there is a missing bushing or the kickstand is worn, replace it with a new one. Additionally, inspect the mounting bracket and other related parts for any signs of damage or wear. Replace any damaged or worn parts as necessary.
Installing the new kickstand: Insert the new kickstand into the mounting bracket, making sure it aligns properly. If there were bushings or spacers on the cotter pin side, ensure they are in place before inserting the kickstand. Slide it in fully, allowing it to rest in its proper position.
Securing the kickstand: Insert a new cotter pin through the designated hole on the kickstand and frame bracket. Ensure it passes through completely and securely. If necessary, bend the ends of the cotter pin to prevent it from slipping out.
Testing and adjustments: Before fully tightening any bolts, test the kickstand by lowering it and verifying that it extends and retracts smoothly. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure proper operation.
Final steps: Once you are satisfied with the installation and functionality of the new kickstand, reassemble any other components or parts that were removed during the process. Double-check that all fasteners are securely tightened.
It's important to consult the specific service manual or instructions for your Harley FXRT model for detailed guidance. If you are not confident in performing the replacement yourself, it's recommended to seek assistance from a professional motorcycle mechanic.
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to maker category.
The best idea is to get a Service Manual for it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1986+harley+davidson+fxr+service+manual
Things like Torque specs can be found on Google by searching 'year make model (the part) bolt torque.
