20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 8 Questions & Answers

This is enough to write a book on. Matter of fact, they have written a book on this. It's a service manual. To cover this subject even briefly would be quite extensive. I suggest that if you want to take on this project that you purchase a service manual. The information that you'll get from the book will be worth far more than the cost of the manual. I always purchase manuals for every vehicle I own including my motorcycles even though I've been working on them for years. The best "tip" I can give you is to use a reputable machine shop to get your heads done, cylinders bored and honed, and the crank rebuilt. Do the job right.

Good Luck
steve

Sounds like a main circuit breaker problem. There was a service bulletin for a breaker upgrade.

Harley-Davidson Service Bulletin M-1151: Main Circuit Breaker Replacement~Purpose: As recently advised in ML-390, Harley-Davidson has determined that a defect exists on certain 2001-2003 FL Touring and Police model motorcycles. These motorcycles have a condition whereby the 40 amp main circuit breaker could open due to reasons other than for which it was designed, causing an unexpected interruption of all electrical power. This condition could cause a “quit while riding” situation, which could occur without warning and lead to a crash, thereby presenting a risk of death or injury to the rider.

This Harley-Davidson safety recal (code 0113) affected to the following motorcycle: Certain 2001-2003 FL Touring and Police model motorcycles, including FLHTCI, FLHTCUI, FLTRI, FLTRSEI-2, FLHPI, FLHPEI and FLHTPI, assembled/shipped from the York, Pennsylvania assembly plant between May, 2000 and September, 2003.
Harley-Davidson Service Bulletin M-1151: Main Circuit Breaker Replacement~Purpose: As recently advised in ML-390, Harley-Davidson has determined that a defect exists on certain 2001-2003 FL Touring and Police model motorcycles. These motorcycles have a condition whereby the 40 amp main circuit breaker could open due to reasons other than for which it was designed, causing an unexpected interruption of all electrical power. This condition could cause a “quit while riding” situation, which could occur without warning and lead to a crash, thereby presenting a risk of death or injury to the rider.

This Harley-Davidson safety recal (code 0113) affected to the following motorcycle: Certain 2001-2003 FL Touring and Police model motorcycles, including FLHTCI, FLHTCUI, FLTRI, FLTRSEI-2, FLHPI, FLHPEI and FLHTPI, assembled/shipped from the York, Pennsylvania assembly plant between May, 2000 and September, 2003.

sounds like the brake switch is staying on


hope this helps

John

If your bike's suspension is bottoming out, it'll feel just like it did when you rode off the curb on your bicycle when you were young. Instead of the suspension absorbing the shock, you'd get a bone jarring slam when the suspension runs out of it's travel. In this case, you need to put more air pressure in your suspension system on your Ultra. If it is not an air suspension, adjust the rear shocks to a tighter preload and put a heavier weight oil put in the front forks.

Check the tension of the drive belt by having someone measure the deflection of the belt when ten pounds of force is applied to the middle of the lower belt run with you sitting on the bike. It should be about a 1/2" or so. Some bikes are different and since I don't have an owner's manual for all of them, I'd suggest calling the service department of your local dealer. They should be able to tell you the setting. They also sell a special tool for applying the ten pounds of force to the belt. It's not expensive either.

Good Luck
Steve

The AC output of the stator should be 32-40 volts at 2000 RPM (16-20 per 1000 RPM). With the battery fully charged, your regulator should supply between 13.5 and 15.0 DC volts to the battery. This should be the reading you get on your voltmeter. It will vary depending on what lights and other equipment you have turned on. Sounds like everything is working fine to me. The gauge is reading the DC voltage at the battery while the engine is running. At 2000 RPM, 12 volts is a little low but, considering the accuracy of the gauge, as long as it doesn't fall below 12 volts, it's about right. You don't ride for extended periods at engine RPMs that low. Then at 3000 RPM, 14 volts is about right. If your bike never ran anymore than 12 volts, your battery would slowly go down. If it goes any higher than 15.0 volts, it will boil the battery. Usually, about 14.3 or so with no load on the system is about right.

Good Luck
Steve

On the right side of the bike on the transmission, there is a chrome end cap. This is the clutch release mechanism. On top of it is a plug that takes a 3/8" hex key or Allen wrench to remove. Stand the bike up straight and take the plug out. It has a dip stick on it. Wipe it off and stick it back in the hole, don't screw it n. Take it out and the fluid level should be between the two lines. Your transmission holds 20-24 ounces of transmission lube. It came with H-D Syn 3, 20W50 engine oil in it.

Good Luck
Steve

I believe that is called an intermitant code .. I have found ans at harleytalking.com its a forum ..good luck..

Try looking under your seat if its not there someone stole it

Hi,
Check your coolant temperature sensor it will be faulty, so it is giving the ecu a code that the engine is cold when it is warm so keeps running at a rich mixture.
Let me know if you want more information.
Thanks
Jason

tire size for that model is mt 90 16 for the front and 140 16 fro the rear i recomend avon venon tires ,,

Possible regulator fault causing battery voltage to exceed 16 Volts.
I would check the battery voltage while the engine is running.

First, check for spark in the dead cylinder. Now, I'm not a Twin Cam mechanic and have very little experience on those engines and the electronic that control them. I'm an old school biker more on the lines of the old Shovelhead enigne. They tell me that the TC engines have a compression sensor on them and if you take the spark plugs out, you won't get a spark. So, pull the plug wires and get a spare set of spark plugs and plug them into the wires to test for spark. If no spark, you've probably got a bad coil or an ECM problem.

Check the compression on the dead cylinder. If the compression is 90 psi or better, your compression should be good enough and that points to a fuel problem, Possible bad injector or ECM problem.

That's about as far as I can go with you. You say you know your way around enignes, just make sure the "engine" is right and if it still doesn't run, it's electonic.

Good Luck on finiding a job as well. I needed two more years to retire when the factory I worked at shut down. Thank heavens they went ahead and gave me full retirement. Otherwise I'd be an old geezer out there fighting the much younger guys for a job. That's why I stay retired, let the younger guys with families that need the jobs have them.

Good Luck
Steve

It sounds like your speedometer is bad. You can take the cable loose and pull it out of the cable housing. Lube it good with grease and reinstall it. If this doesn't help, it's your speedo unit and it must be replaced.

Good Luck
Steve

Sounds like the ECU is faulty. Try the alarm, if it's got one, it may be cutting the ignition. I think that is controlled by the ECU anyway?
Hope that helps

Specifications: Engine Type: 1449 cc, 4-Stroke, Air Cooled, V-Twin
Engine Bore and Stroke: 95.3 mm x 101.6 mm
Valves 2 valves/cylinder
Claimed Horsepower: 67 hp (50 kW) @ 5200 rpm
Maximum Torque: 110 Nm (81.1 ft. lbs) @ 3100 rpm
Transmission type: 5 speed
Final Drive: Belt

Tire - Front: 130/90-16
Tire - Rear: 130/90-16
Brakes - Front: dual 292 mm discs with 4-piston calipers
Brakes - Rear: single 292 mm disc with 4-piston calipers

Sizes can vary depending on what has been done to the bike.
Ride safe and loud pipes save lives.

Check your engine oil level. Your engine's oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. You need to determine whether it's your transmission or your oil tank that is overflowing. If it is your transmission, you may have lost a gasket and engine oil is getting into the transmisson or you're putting the engine oil in the wrong place. The engine oil goes into the opening on the corner of the transmission with the large (2") diameter knurled cap with the long dipstick on it. Transmission oil is added in the smaller plug that takes an hex or Allen wrench to remove.

Also, smell of the oil in your oil tank. Does it have a strong smell of gasoline. If so, you're carb may be leaking fuel into the engine and this "adds' volume to the oil which causes your oil tank to overflow.

I tried to copy it out of my manual and it wont let me paste it in here. send me you email and I will send you what you need.

If your bike is fuel injected, this is typical. What is happening is the fast idle is keeping your engine running until you blip the trottle. When you do this, the fast idle relaeses the idle speed control. Once the engine gets to full operating temp, the idle speed is correct.

Good Luck
Steve

The folks at your local dealership are sadly mis-informed. I can't believe that you/they can't find you a main harness thats compatable with a 2001 Ultra. I'd try calling another dealer in your area and/or possibly speaking with a parts manager for clarification. Lastly, you could speak with H-D customer service in Milwaukee at (414) 343-4056

Check the connection on your oil sensor at the front of the timing gear cover. The wire may be loose or the sensor bad.

Good luck
Steve