20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Sounds like you've got a bad front brake light switch. This little switch is inside the right handlebar switch housing. You can replace the switch by removing the throttle cables and taking the housing apart. Unless Harley has changed something, the switch is not difficult to change but the old wires have to be resoldered onto the new switch.

Good luck
Steve

You must take it to a shop to have the idle speed set. It's set electronically.

It's not that big a job to change the front end suspension parts but taking all that fairing and the headlight nachele off is. You have to pull that stuff off to get to the top fork tube plugs in order to refill the tubes with oil once you change the lower sliders.

Good luck
Steve

If changing your filter as well as the oil, your bike should take three quarts of oil as best as I know. Always check your oil using the dipstick when you change it. Change the oil and filter and add three quarts, start the engine and run it just a bit, two or three minutes. Check the oil level with the dipstick. The dipstick has two marks on it. The upper mark is 'FULL HOT" while the lower mark is 'FULL COLD'. Make sure your oil level is between the two marks and never overfill.

As for regular petroleum based oil or synthetic, you're 2001 machine came from the factory with H-D's Syn 3 20W50 synthetic oil in the engine, the primary, and the transmission. I'd recommend sticking with the synthetic oil but it must meet H-D's specification. Not all synthetics do. Matter of fact, very few do. Some that do is Amsoil, Royal Purple, and Mobil V-Twin.

Good Luck
Steve

Notice if the dash lights and other small lights go off when it does this. It sounds like you're tripping a breaker, possibly the main breaker. If you have a short somewhere and the main breaker trips, it will kill all power to the bike. After a few minutes, the breaker will reset and the bike will restart until the short shows up again. Look to see what size the breaker is. I have seen them go back but not very often. You might want to replace it with a new one. Be very careful about going up on the size of the breaker. It's there to protect your wiring harness. If you go with a bigger breaker, you could burn up your wiring harness or your bike.

If the rest of the brake lights are not working, then it must be something to do with that unit only. Have you checked the bulb? How about the ground? Does the socket have corrosion in it?

remove two tiny torx head screws and pull them out of the caliper
remove old pads
clean and push piston(s) into caliper

easier with wheel off, or axle pulled out so caliper can "float"
a toothbrush work well with some brakecleans

You need to check you spark. Pull the spark plug wires off the spark plugs but leave you old spark plugs in the heads. A Twin Cam has a compression sensor and will not fire the plugs if it does NOT sense any compression. So, don't remove the plugs. Instead, insert a new set of plugs into the wires. Ground the plug against the heads and spin the engine over. Watch for spark at the plugs. If you see the spark, then change the plugs installing the new plugs.

If this does not solve your problems, you need to investigate as to why you're smelling gasoline. Remove the air cleaner cover and the air filter element. Look for fuel leaks to begin with. Then, crank the engine over and see if you see any gasoline coming from places that it shouldn't be coming from. Listen for the way the engine sounds as it turns over. Does it sound right? If it sounds uneven or like it's spinning too fast, you may have a compression problem but this is the least likely of the problems that could be causing your bike to fail to start.

Good luck
Steve

You may find these are factory hose fittings, they are put on with a special tool, and usualy can only be used once. Im not to sure how they come apart, but will have to be cut off somehow, and then replaced with standard hose clamps of the worm drive type.

Did you try a Google search? There are some forums that have older diagrams, but one for a 01 FLHTCUI would be a rare find on-line.

You may experience erratic idle on Marelli early Twin Cams. One cause of this is the air bleeds being partially restricted in the throttle body.

Start out by cleaning out the air bleed holes in the throttle body with some spray carb cleaner with the straw nozzle on it and see if it makes a difference. They are small pin holes (2) in the inner throttle body of the intake system at the 10 O' clock position for the front runner and the 2 O' clock position for the rear runner.

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Otherwise try this procedure to see if it helps.

Take the right side cover off

You need a tach for this simple procedure

1. Get engine up to normal operaing temp.

2. Set the hot idle to approx. 1000rpm.

3. Unplug the connector to the idle speed control actuator. (now the engine thinks it's cold ).

4. Set the cold idle @ 1500rpm.

5. Shut the engine off

6. Remove the EFI fuse cover

7. remove the 5 & 15 amp fuses.

8. Go take at least a 30 minute break

9. Put the fuses back in.

Next time you start you bike the ECM will remember the new idle settings you have done!


Here's the service bulletin on it also.

MM idle speed set.pdf Link 1

MM idle speed set.pdf Link 1 Publisher Details Ride: 07 Road King Classic

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Pull the spark plug wires off and insert another set of good plugs in them. Do not remove the spark plugs that are in the engine now. You engine has a compression sensor and if it doesn't sense compression it will not have spark. Try to crank the engine will watching the plugs. If you do not see a spark, turn the switch off and listen closely for a slight "tick". I cannot remember what year Harley went to using fuses instead of circuit breakers but you could have a short somewhere tripping the circuit breaker to your ignition circuit. Listen again when you turn the switch back on. After a few seconds, you may hear the slight "ping" of the circuit breaker when it trips.

If that isn't the problem, I'd say that the compression sensor on your engine is bad or you don't have compression. Check the compression on your engine. Good Luck

Yes, there is a dipstick. Right where your engine and transmission come together, there is a round cap about an inch and a half (40mm) in diameter or so with knurled edges. This is the oil spout plug and it has a dipstick. Check your oil with the bike on the side stand. There are two marks on the stick. The two marks indicate Full Hot and Full Cold. The oil level should be between these two marks. Do not overfill the oil tank that is on the bottom of the transmission.

On the bottom of the transmission threre are two drain plugs. The drain plug in the center is the transmission fluid drain, the drain on the left front is the oil drain plug. You engine takes three quarts of oil with the filter change. You transmission take 20-24 ounce of H-D transmission lube.

You have a power surge ,get your regulator checked ,it may be faulty.

In the fuel tank.

If your bike is equipped with a carburetor, there is a throttle stop screw on the right side of the carb up near the top.

If your bike is equipped with fuel injection, the idle speed must be set with the onboard computer at the dealership unless it is equpped with an aftermarket unit. I do not know how to do this as I know nothing about the fuel injection systems.

The oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. There are two drain plugs, one for the engine oil and one for transmission lube. The engine oil drain is the one closest to the left front of the oil tank. The drain that is more in the center is the transmission drain.

Broken piston ring

no - should be 800-1000 rpm

should read 13.5 or above no more then 16 volts