20 Most Recent 2001 Harley Davidson FXSTB Night Train Questions & Answers

Duplicate question already answered

The primary is a 1/8th inch pipe thread, they seem to strip out on a regular basis. Not sure if it's the same on the tranny, you could match them to see if you had to, i reckon. I haven't had to keensert one of those yet.

under your engine there should be a thing called a sump nut cant miss it is right under your engine and is a size 17 it is very obvious simply turn it and take off careful though is messy so turn it off completely when off and all oil gone pour new oil through the bike to run out any old oil would be a good idea to do the filter at the same time not sure where placed on a harley but shouldne be hard to find

The transmission oil should be changed every 5,000 miles or yearly. The "yearly" change interval is to prevent water buildup in the transmission due to condensation. If you get condensation in the transmission, the oil will float on top of the water. With the water on the bottom of the transmission, you won't detect it by checking the oil dipstick. I've seen many a four speed transmission worn out due to this. Haven't seen a five speed yet but I'd be willing to bet they aren't far off. The transmission holds 20-24 ounces of oil. Drain, refill, stand the bike up straight and check the level with the dipstick. If you think changing your transmission oil every year is too expensive, look at the price of a quart of oil and the price of rebuilding a transmission. I think you'll think the way I do.

Good Luck
Steve

No way out but to get the leak plugged before you start the bike again. Check at the drain plug if the leak was a loose fitting or a cross thread. But not to speculate it is bettter that you pour into new oil and start the engine if there is no signs of leak and rev up till the visible signs appear.

look on the bottom of the oil tank and follow the hose that goes down by the transmittion and there is a plug at the end of it

There are indeed two drains under the bike. One is for the engine oil and one is for the transmission lubricant. Since your bike is basically a Softail, the one your looking for is the one on the frame back towards the rear tire under the pipes. Follow the pipe upwards and see if it goes to the oil tank. This will verify that you have the correct drain. Just loosen the drain plug and let a drop or two of oil come out. It should be black. If it's clear and clean looking, it may be your transmission lube but I'm sure if your bike is a Softail model, this is the drain you're looking for.

Good Luck
steve

The brake light is activated by a little switch near the brake lever for the front brake, and the rear brake pedal activates a electric/hydraulic switch mounted somewhere on your frame between the rear master cylinder and the brake caliper. It has to be in line with the rear brake line so it will be easy to find by tracing the line. It will be about an inch in diameter, have one or two wires plugged into on end, and uses a special socket to remove/install, although you can get away with channel-locks if you take care. If you decide to tackle the job yourself, buy the part before hand, and don't touch the brake levers at all until the new one is installed, you should not have to bleed the brakes that way.

yes buddy swing arm removed belt put behind swing n arm and the wheel losened and slide the wheel forward dont force the belt and after 100miles check the belt tension if so adjust it and also you will require a torque wrench to torque the bolts on swing n arm and on rear wheel the wheel is 100 NM and swing n arm is 79 NM bud

More than likely from what you have described, the pistons need to be removed from the caliper and inspected. They will need either a thorough cleaning or replacement. Make sure you replace the seals and o rings in the caliper while you have it apart. It also probably would be a really good idea to go ahead and rebuild the master cylinder. The internals in that are probably just as old as the caliper parts.

You need one of the key fobs, or the access code to release it through the handle bars. you should have gotten these when you purchased the bike.
If you have access to neither, then you will have to take it to your local HD dealer and have them reset the system for you.

Have you recently (before this happened) washed your bike and sprayed (under pressure) your left handlebar switches (or maybe it was out in a really heavy rain)? The reason I say this is that water sometimes gets into your switch and will intermittently make contact. Every time it does it will either turn on or turn off your turn signal. The turn signal works like this: every time you push the switch it sends a +12 volt signal to your TSM (Turn Signal Module). This signal tells the TSM to start flashing the appropriate light (left switch/ left light, right switch/right light). When the switch is triggered the TSM will start counting 20 flashes. If your bike slow below 7 MPH it will pause the count until you start moving 8 MPH or more again. Once it has reached the 20 count it will turn off the signal. Another way it senses to turn off the signal is using the bank angle sensor (built into the TSM). If it senses that you leaned enough to make the turn, it turns off the flasher. Also, if you push the same turn signal switch again (while it is still flashing) it will turn off the turn signal (this is called the "Manual termination). Water in the switch (or a bad switch) can duplicate the condition of pushing the switch on due to vibration. Try hitting the top of your left switch housing a few times, with your hand/fist to simulate the road vibration with the key on, and see if that causes the problem. You could also try disconnection the switches connector to the main harness and see if that prevents the problem from happening. If either test works I would say it is the flasher switch in the handle bar switch housing. You may want to spray so compressed air or WD-40 into the actual switch (have to take the control housing apart to do this). Hope this helps you to find the problem.