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2002 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom - Page 3 Questions & Answers
Clutch cable leaks
You need a new cable. It points downward from the primary cover which contains oil, and some of it sits in the lower part of the cable. If it is frayed, it will leak.
Rattle noise in head
valve train .tappets,lifters...could need adjusting ..hard to say with out hearing it but defiantly valve train. if its in the head.
1200 custom sportster stops running when it get warm
Sounds like it is possibly the cam sensor. It is located under the round cover on the lower right side of the engine. The cover is held on by 2 rivets. If this is indeed the problem, you will have to re-time the bike after replacing the sensor.
2000 HD sportster 1200 low rpm hesitation with speedo freak out
Tighten the battery cables at both ends. Be sure to disconnect the negative cable before tightening the positive cable where it hooks on to the starter, or you will do some unwanted "welding"! Make sure you also check the negative cable where it attatches to the engine case on the primary side. This one has a tendency to come loose and cause this type of problem.
My head light is notworking my single light work break light work just the head light fuses are good blub works what should i look for
Check you light switch. It should be a simple series circuit consisting of bulb, fuse, switch and of course the wiring. Make sure the bulb is really good and making good contact. You may want to do voltage checks at various points if you have a voltmeter. If you can follow the wiring make the voltage checks otherwise remove the bulb and carefully make voltage check at the contacts making sure not to short out. With light switch on check the voltage and ensure you have 12vdc. That will tell you for sure that the bulb has proper voltage. Check the voltage with the headlight switch on and off. If no value replace the fuse. Sometimes fuses are deceiving and look ok when they are not. If you can also check the voltage across the light switch by using a voltmeter. Ensure that you have 12vdc when switched to the ON position. Do not attempt this unless you know how to use a voltmeter as you could short the ciruict by accident. I had a Harley Police so may have been a little different but the concept same.
Were does the singal red
The latest book I have is a 2002 model book and it says that the pushrods marked with three pink bands and are 10.800" (274.32mm) are exhaust pushrods. The intake pushrods are marked with a single brown band and are 10.746" (272.94mm) long. Lay all the pushrods side by side and check the lengths. The long pushrods are the exhaust pushrods.
Good Luck
Steve
I blew out the cross
It's quite possible that you'll have to adjust the jetting in your carburetor. But, there is not set rule as to what you need to do. Usually, you must richen the mixture a bit but how much, only test after installing the pipes will tell. The best thing to do is to find a performance oriented shop with a dynometer and an exhaust gas analyzer. Have them check the fuel-air mixture and make any necessary jet changes. That way, you know it's right.
Good Luck
Steve
SLIPPED OUT OF FOURTH GEAR AND NOW i DONT HAVE 4TH
It could be your stifter pawl in the primary case of the engine. You'll have to pull the engine sprocket and clutch assembly to get to the shifter mechanism. This is not a complicated mechanism but it is one that has a very specific setting. I'd suggest the purchase of a Harley-Davidson factory service manual to do this job. I don't suggest this unless I feel it is a necessity to do the job if you're going to attempt it yourself. The reason is that sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. This is one of those cases. I could type for a week and not be able to tell you how to set the shifting mechanism on your bike but a picture would show you in two seconds. I hate to tell you this but it's the best advice that I know to give you in this case. If the manual saves you from having to take the bike to a repair shop, it's paid for itself with it's first use. It's a good investment if you plan on keeping the bike.
Good Luck
Steve
Stalling/popping while riding, takes tons of gas
It sounds like the accelerator pump has gone bad on you. Take the air filter off and with the engine OFF, crank the throttle to wide open. Watch the brass nozzle just inside the mouth of the carb for a sqirt of gas. If you don't see the shot of gas going into the carb, youe accelerator pump diaphragm needs to be replaced. This will require that the float bowl, and possibly the entire carb, be removed from the engine. Take the small accelerator pump cover off the bottom of the float bowl and change the diaphragm. This would be my best guess.
Good Luck
Steve
We were driving down the
Just because it has gas in the tank does not mean it has gas in the carb. In 1996, Harley went to a vacuum operated petcock and these things give trouble. If the diaphragm in the backside of the petcock gets a hole in it, no fuel flows from the tank to the carb. Take your air filter cover and the air filter off. With the engine off, roll the throttle grip to wide open while watching for a stream of fuel to squirt from the brass thing right inside the mouth of the carb. If you see no fuel, you have no fuel in the float bowl and the petcock is suspect. If you do have fuel, pull a spark plug wire off and put another spark plug in the wire. Ground the plug well against the engine and spin the starter. See if you have a spark. If not, that's your problem and you'll have to troubleshoot the ignition system.
Good Luck
Steve
45@does the sportster use the
I think the later models are designed to use the same type of oil in both the engine and the prmary/transmission. But, I have never agreed with this. I use H-D Syn 3 20W50 oil in the engine but I prefer to run either Harley's primary and transmission lube or one of the other manufacturers lubricants in the transmission. If you use another manufacturer's lubricant, go to their website and check for compatibility for use in your Sportster.
Good Luck
Steve
How much slack should their
Adjust the chain so that you have between 3/8" and 1/2" up and down movement with the engine cold.
Ride Safe
Steve
2002 Harley 1200 XLC: Major Carbs farts and
First, get the throttle cables working properly. Loosen the cables just a bit and see if that helps. If not, take the right switch housing apart and take the throttle sleeve out. Lubricate the inside of the sleeve and the handlebar on the throttle side. Lubricate the cables with a product called "Dry Slide" if you can find it. It's a graphite type lubricant in a liquid carrier. It has a small "needle" that you use to get the stuff inside the cable. When the carrier agent evaporates, the dry graphite is left inside the cable. Nasty to use but great stuff. When you put the throttle sleeve back on and the switch housing back together, slide it all the way up on the handlebar and then back it back down the bar about an 1/8" or so. This insures the closed end of the throttle sleeve is not rubbing on the end of the handlebar. Make sure the throttle operates smoothly.
Now, take the tank off of your bike. With the tank off, you can operate the carb mechanism. Rotate it and let it go. Does the throttle close completely. If not, you need to take the carb off the engine and have it gone through. If the bike has been allowed to sit up for a while, the carb is gummed up from the evaporating fuel left inside of it.
To help reduce or stop the spitting back out of the carb, while you have it apart, check the slow speed jet size. It should be a #42. Go up to a #45 jet. Drill out the anti-tamper plug over the idle mixture adjustment and adjust the mixture for highest, smoothest idle when you get the carb back on the bike. Be very careful when you drill the anti-tamper plug out.
Good Luck
Steve
Under torque my 2002 1200 sportster sounds like
The large nut on the compensator sprocket may be loose causing the problem. I am a bit confused though. You aren't clear about what has 800 miles on it. Does the bike, a 2002 model, only have 800 miles on it or does the new primary chain have 800 miles on it? Either way, if it's doing this, I'd pull the primary cover off and check everything inside the primary.
Good luck
Steve
The engines turns vigorously when
If the starter turns the engine over, there's nothing wrong with the starter relay, the solenoid, or the starter. The reason your engine won't run is it has no spark for some reason. I'm afraid that this is all I can tell you. For some reason, the system is not firing the spark plugs. Check the fuse. I hope this helps but I must confess that I don't know a lot about Harley's new electronic system after 2000. I work on the older bike that don't have this system.
Good Luck
Steve
I have a 2008 model
the thing u must do at this point is find out what the engine light was coming on, there will be fault code set with the light, the dealer can test the electronic control system and get this code from memory, I am sure it is related to what is going on, all the jumping power and fooling with the relays is a waste of time at this point, get the test run by Harley.
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