20 Most Recent 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide Classic - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You need to adjust your clutch. The transmission cannot slip as the gears are constant mesh but the clutch can.

Follow your clutch cable down to the frame down tubes and find the cable adjuster that is covered by a rubber bellows. Slide the bellows up or down to get to the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards to make the cable as short as possible.

Then, remove the derby cover from your outer primary cover on the left side of your bike. Under the cover, you'll see the clutch assembly. The adjuster is right in the center of this assembly. Loosen the locknut and turn the center screw inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw as you'll start to release the clutch. Turn the screw in just until you feel a resistance then back the screw back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the locknut down tight. Replace the derby cover.

Then go back to the cable adjuster and adjust it outwards until you have about an 1/8" play at the clutch lever. Lock the locknut down and reposition the bellows cover.

This should solve your slippage problem unless you've damaged your clutch's friction disc. If the clutch has bee allowed to slip for too long a period of time, the friction disc could be worn or damaged necessitating the replacement of the disc. This is a job for either the dealer or an aftermarket shop as special tools are required.

Good Luck
Steve

sounds like your battery is not charging from the engine. Most likely the cause of this is, a faulty Rectifier.
I suggest you charge your battery up, put it in the bike and start it up. Using a Volt meter, check the reading, to see if charge is going into the battery, reading should be about 14V with a little rev of the engine. If the reading remains at 12V, then ther is no charge going in.
If you have charge going in to your battery at idle, 13.5 - 14Volts,
Then i suggest your battery is faulty.

all harley clutches make noise is it a wet type or dry is it evo or shovel head and how many miles on it ??or last replaced or was it REBUILT??? hogs are touchy unless u r a mechanic

I would suggest the fault is probably with the REAR LEFT fitting.
The Front Left doesn't flash because the Rear Left doesn't light up at all - this means there is a lower power drain in the circuit than the normal level at which the flasher activates.
Most likely it is a bad earth.
One side of the bulb should be connected to the positive side of the circuit which runs from the +ve battery terminal, through the turn signal switch and the flasher unit and under normal circumstances would pulse 12 volts DC, turning the light ON/OFF, exactly as the Right Rear signal does. This side will be WIRES all the way to the bulb. It could be a broken one or a bad connection but is the least likely of the 2 possibilities in my experience. You can check this with a multimeter if you have access to one.
The other side of the bulb is the negative side of the circuit and will connect to the -ve side of the battery. Usually this involves using the frame of the motorcycle as part of the circuit and is where a poor connection is most likely to be found.
A visual inspection might reveal the problem - broken wire, loose screw or most likely a rusty or corroded terminal or Earth bonding point or similar. You can always compare it with the right-hand side if in doubt.
Hope this helps

Most likely at a HD dealer only

Harley usually uses a 12.5" shock but that could change from model to model and they don't list "shock length" in their specs. The best thing you could do it go to a dealer or find someone that has a stock bike and measure the front end height and rear shock length. Sorry but that's all I got.

Good Luck
Steve

This is common. Usually it's not all the pushrods but at least one. The problem is not with the pushrods or the hydraulic units in the tappets. The problem is with the heads.

When Harley designed the Shovelhead engine, the gasoline that we burned had lead in it to lubricate the valves. This was back in 1966. Over the years, the lead has been taken out of the gasoline but Harley never updated the valves nor the valves seats to the "hardened valves and seats" because they knew they were going to introduce the Evolution engine. Therefore, all Shovelhead engines came from the factory with the "soft" valves and seats.

Being this is the case, the valve and valve seats wear quickly. When the valves and seats wear, the valves are pulled up higher into the seats make the valve stems sit higher in the rocker box. When you're trying to get the pushrods out, you shorten the pushrod as much as possible but the rocker arm is still too close to the end of the valve stem to allow the pushrod to come up high enough to clear the cup of the hydraulic unit in the tappets. I've had to use a small screwdriver wedged between the lower ball of the pushrod and the cup of the hydraulic unit to put enough pressure on the hydraulic unit to make it bleed down as much as possible.

The only remedy is have a valve job done on the heads by a machinist that is knowlegable of Harley heads. He should install hardened seats and valves and set the "stem height" to the correct dimension. With that done, the pushrods will go into and out of the hydraulic unit as they were originally designed to do.

I've seen an Ironhead Sportster that the valves and seats were worn so badly that the spring keeper on top of the spring was hitting the bottom side of the rocker arm. It was a wonder that the split locks had not jumped out resulting in the a valve being "dropped". If you have anymore questions, contact me directly at wd4ity @ bellsouth.net

the wires mounted on top are the o2 air flow.. this helps to regulate the air fuel mixture..

If the engine is stock, there is no adjustment to the valves. The engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets that take up for any wear or heat expansion of the cylinders. The pushrods are non-adjustable but are of different lengths. They are color-coded as to what position they go in.

Now, if your engine has been modified and adjustable pushrods installed, they should work the same way unless they are way out of adjustment. Then, it depends on "whose" pushrods they are as not all pushrods have the same threaded ends on them. But, all is not lost.

Take one of the pushrods out of the engine and adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Now, turn the end out until it makes the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer while counting the "flats" on the adjuster. When you install the pushrod, make sure the tappet is at it's lowest point in the bore. Put the pushrod in, don't forget the tube and the new O-rings, and adjust the pushrod out until you have zero backlash. Then adjust it out the additional number of "flats" that it took to make it exactly 0.100" longer. Lock the adjuster down. What you're doing here is the plunger of the tappet has a travel of 0.200" total and you're adjusting the pushrod so that the plunger is halfway in the middle of its travel so that it's got equal travel in both the up and down direction.

Good Luck

Why don't you simply reposition the circuit breaker?You can replace the circuit breaker with a fuse if you wish but do not go up on the rating. Right off hand, I don't remember the rating on your circuit breaker. But, it it's rated at 40 amps, do not replace it with a 45 or higher rated fuse. The reason is that the circuit breaker is there to protect your wiring harness. If you go up on the rating of the fuse, it allows too much current to flow and your wiring harness is in danger then. Got to almost any automotive parts house and you can buy an inline fuse holder. I'd get one of those Maxi fuse holders, not the little minifuse holders of the glass tube type fuses.

Good Luck
Steve

no but it sounds like you definately have an interesting short in the wiring somewhere.

Probably in the turn switch.

If power out of the regulator is down to 10 volts then the regulator is naff - replace it!
If power going into regulator goes as low as 10 across the phases then the alternator needs rewiring (not very likely)

Hope this helps (if so please mark as very helpful)

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Do you maintain the bike according to maintenance schedule? Do you smell unburned petrol/gas when idling? Do you ride your bike hard all the time?
Firstly have an authorised dealer do a good and complete maintenance service, measure its result again your current condition, any improvement?
Ask the dealer what is the numbers your bike should produce for milage/kilometer per galon/liter consumption and measure against your current notes.

That is exactly what it is engineered to do --

I think there is a throttle cable and an idle cable.Should be able to get the adjustment you need at handle bar.Check condition of cable first,cable may be broke inside sheath.You could take couple turns on adjuster but cable won't be moving if it's broke inside.

Don't attempt this without the aid of a workshop manual .If in doubt ask your harley agent for guidance.

Make sure you do not overfill the primary. when putting the oil in the primary, have the bikes standing as straight up as possible. Add oil only until it comes to the bottom of the clutch spring. If you put too much oil in the primary, the oil will get in between the plates when the clutch is released and act like the oil in a automatic transmission torque converter. It will continue to drive just enough so that you cannot find neutral with the engine running.

Otherwise, you must make sure all clutch adjustments are correct. Loosen clutch cable all the way. Adjust clutch release adjuster behind derby cover, all the way in and back off one half to one complete turn, readjust cable for 1/8" freeplay.

You seam to have done most checks,but you dont mention checking the fuses,allso make sure your earth wire from the battery is making a good contact. are you positive the engine turns over, try putting it in first and push starting it with the spark plugs removed the rear wheel should turn quite easily.

Once they're installed, they usually self adjust from what I've been told. It works hydraulically. As the spring pushes up on the bottom side of the primary, the sucks oil in to keep the tension on the chain.

I've heard from some that they have noticed a bit more noise from the primary due to the added tension on the primary chain. Personally, I guess I'm just "old school". It ain't too much trouble to check the chain tension every two or three thousand miles. But, then again, I work on the things for a hobby.