20 Most Recent 2003 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Remove the seat. Look on the left side of the battery box. There are two bolts there connecting the battery tray to the frame, loosen these two bolts. Look down into the inside of the frame from the top where your took the seat off just inside of where the battery sits. There's a "jack bolt" there, screw the bolt counterclockwise to lower the battery and clockwise to raise it. Once lowered you can get the top and outer chrome covers off and disconnect the battery.

good Luck
Steve

2.5 to 3 quarts. The manual will say 3.5 quarts but that is always over the fill mark.

One thing you could try is a "fork brace" or what some people call a "tweek bar" that ties the two sliders together. This reduces the amount of flex in the front forks. We used to run them on our dirt bikes years ago. They do help stabilize the front end.

Also drop your front tire pressure to 30 psi and look for any unusual wear patterns on you tires such as cupping. Take the wheel off and have it spin balanced as well. You can also change the fork oil in your forks. I run PJ1 30 weight in my Wide Glide. It's a bit on the stiff side but it sure helped the handling as the bike no longer bounces and dives in the turns. I also got away from the Dunlop tires. I now run Metezler 880's and they seem to handle the turns better but I think the Dunlops had better braking characteristics.

Good Luck
Steve

The engine takes three quarts of oil with a filter change. Now, always check the oil after filling. The dipstick has two marks on it. The upper mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Do not overfill.

The transmission holds 20-24 ounces of transmission lube. It too has a dipstick on it.

The primary holds 36-42 ounces of oil. Do not overfill this either because too much oil will make your clutch seem like it's dragging. You will not be able to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

There is a pipe leading from the bottom of the oil tank(Right hand side of the bike) to the underside of the bike. This pipe ends in front of the swing arm and is blanked off with a plug held in place by a clamp. Undo the clamp, pull out the plug and your oil drains out. Be sure to have a container ready under the bike to catch the draining oil.

hi
it depends on the atmosphere and the type of filter used in it.
using oil in filter may inprove the filtering process but if you use excess amount of oil in it, it may block the air passage which makes insufficient combustion

if using oil use in the correct quantity.soak the filter in oil and hang it for few mins so that only traces of oil wil remain it so that it doesnt restrict the passage of air

if my answer were useful to you please vote me.

idol needle incorrect setting

check the switch on your handlebar, I had to change mine recently as I could not get the starter to turn over

if all else on bike works, not a fuse problem, it would share with other components. remove and check for loose wires. if mechanical attached to front wheel, remove cable form front wheel worm gear and check if square cable is broken (pull it out)

If the swingarm wobbles from side to side, you need to replace the swing arm bushings. You'll have to support the engine/transmission while you remove the swingarm. Once out, you can drive out the old bushings and replace them with new ones. It's not that big of a job except for pulling the rear wheel. Just watch the sequence in which the parts on each side of the swingarm come out and put them back the same way.

Good Luck
Steve

Oh-oh, you shoulda coulda woulda used Sta-Bil at the least. But you can siphon out the gas in there, and put in some nice fresh high-test gas, with a little Sea-Foam, that may do it.

50-60 foot pounds.

2003 is single fire. If you buy anew tach, it will come with instalation instructions. With a little common sence, it's pretty easy.

The square shaped box on the left side under the seat.

I've seen kits that supposedly allow you to do this and I've seen it attempted several times. I simply does not do an acceptable job to me. The problem is getting the metal bezel opened and then back closed in replacing the glass. You have to pry it open and then try to squeeze it back closed and if simply does not work and looks bad. Additionally, you lose the "seal" on the speedo and it will fog up everytime it gets wet. It's better to buy another speedometer. There are some services available that can do this but it's quite expensive and intended for salvaging rare older speedometers than for repair of currently available speedos.

You can change the jets in your Keihen carb without removing the carb. First remove the air cleaner cover, air filter element, and the backing plate. There are four screws holding the float bowl onto your carb, turn the petcock to the off positon (if it has an off positon) and remove the four screws and drop the float bowl down.

You will be able to see them main jet very easily. It's screwed into the main jet holder and extends down to the very bottom of the float bowl when the bowl is on the carb. Simply screw the old jet out and screw the new one in.

The slow jet will not be visible directly. It's up inside a hole just to the rear of the main jet holder. You may need a mirror to find it. Once you've found it, use a narrow bladed screwdriver to remove the old one and install the new one. Replace the fuel bowl, air cleaner assembly. Check for proper operation of the throttle before starting the engine.

Now, if you jet kit contains a different slide needle, you'll have to remove the carb to replace this. Once you get the air filter assembly off the carb, loosen the throttle cables at the throttle grip and disconnect them at the carb. Then disconnect the fuel line and the vacuum line from the carb. Pull the carb out of the intake manifold.

To replace the needle, remove the four screws that hold the top cover on the carb. One screw is longer than the rest, remember where it goes. Carefully remove the cover. There is a large low tension spring under the cover and a rubber diaphragm. You do not have to remove the slide to change the needle but it's a lot easier if you do. Lift the diaphragm out of the groove around the top of the carb. Carefully. lift the slide out of the carb. Down inside the slide, you'll see a plastic needle retainer. Take this out and lift the needle out of the slide. Install the new needle as instructed with your jet kit. Reassemble in reverse order being very careful to insure the diaphragm is properly seated in it's groove around the top of the carb. If not, you will puncture the diaphragm and then have to replace it. It ain't cheap either, Sometimes you have to use just a bit of grease to get the diaphragm to stay in the groove.

While you've got it down this far, you need remove the anti-tamper plug that covers the idle mixture adjustment screw in the event it hasn't been removed previously. Turn the carb upside down and locate a round plug just on the engine side of the float bowl. It is about 1/4" in diameter. Using a small drill bit, carefully drill though this plug. It isn't thick and you just want to drill through the plug, If you put too much pressure on the drill, you will damage the screw beneath it. Just barely drill through the plug. With the plug drilled, insert a small self tapping sheet metal screw. Use a pair of pliers to work the plug out of it's hole. Now, you'll see the idle adjuster screw. Carefully turn it inwards until it seats while counting the turns. Once the adjuster barely seats, turn it back out three complete turns. This is your starting point.

Reinstall the carb with a new carb to manifold seal. Check for the proper throttle operation before starting the engine. Start the engine and allow it to warm up a bit. Adjust the idle mixture screw for smoothest idle and the throttle stop screw so that the engine idle speed is about 1000-1200 RPM.

Good Luck

give it a few taps of a hammer at the back of the stud then try it.if the head is damaged you might need a stud extracter.or a hammer and blunt chisel

Your ticking noise could be most anything. You didn't tell me how many miles are on your bike.

Now, on top of the head you have the typical stuff that's on all four cycles engines with pushrod operated valves. You tappets down below that push up on the push rods. The push rods push up on the rocker arms. The rocker arms pivot on rocker arm shafts that ride in rocker arm bushings. The rocker arms push down on the valve stems that are closed by valves springs. The valves are also guided by valves guides. There could be wear in any one or more of these places causing the ticking you are hearing.

Now, whether or not the ticking warrants concern is how loud the ticking is. If it something that you have to "listen" for, I don't think I'd be too concerned as a bit of valve train noise is common in an engine with a few miles on it. However, if people are asking you what's that noise when you pull up, you need to have it checked out.

Pull the top covers off the heads and check for broken valves springs, missing or busted valve keepers, excessive wear in the rocker arm bushing. I hope this helps, Good Luck and ride safe.

in this case if teh battery is good then please try to check the wiring there might be some problems with the wiring or the wires which connects the battery might have gone too old

Yes, the pads are held in alignment by the rotor and the caliper once it's all put together. Now, if the pads "wear" uneven, then you may have a problem with a caliper sticking or something.