20 Most Recent 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883 Sportster - Page 4 Questions & Answers

By "no headlight nothing" I take it no headlight, taillight, horn, as no power, right? First, buy a MULTIMETER: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html This will come in handy for many things, so it is a good investment! Check your battery and see what (if any) charge it has. If the battery is dead, this could be your problem. If not, next up is check the fuses. The multimeter helps here, as I have come across fuses that looked good (not burned through), but for some reason, they were bad. Check the battery terminals. Are they tight? No "crud" growing on them? Is the other end of the ground cable making good contact?

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+diagram+2000+sportster&hl=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=t6baUt_uCOrMsQSv7IH4Aw&ved=0CC0QsAQ&biw=1302&bih=691#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=HQsfOARzagxtTM%253A%3B4IHcNXACEAVdsM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.officialharleyparts.com%252Fharley%252F1999-00_xl_1200S.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.officialharleyparts.com%252Fwiring_diagrams.php%3B836%3B547

You have to remove the battery positive, then pull the battery out ( towards the left side of the bike ) then you'll be able to get access to the negative cable. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

The sensor plate is probably shot. If you pull the cover on the cam side look at the plate. An easy tell it's bad or going bad is the sealer is usually melted. If that's not the problem then it's the ignition module . I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

REMOVE SEAT, REMOVE 2 BOLTS KEEPING IGNITION IN PLACE. REMOVE UPPER BATTERY CASE COVER. REMOVE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FIRST TO PREVENT ARCING POSITIVE TERMINAL INTO FRAME SOMEWHERE. NEG THEN POS. REMOVE BATTERY, REVERSE TO INSTALL AND THERE YOU HAVE IT FOLKS.

Somethings are best taken to the bike shop when it comes to electronics, unless you know the security codes... did you program the ororiginal codes?

Harley's Formula + (conventional) or Syn 3 (synthetic)

You have a problem with the ABS system (As far as I know the softtail does not come equipt with ABS) but the only way to fix the warning light on an ABS equipt Harley is to have the dealer hook it up to their computer and recalibrate the ABS system.

The fuse box is located just behind the battery on the left side of the machine. It looks like a right triangle, and can be removed without tools; just pull it out of the rubber grommets holding it in place.

Hello,


If you want an original battery by Harley the Part nº is 65958-04.

This is the link for that specific battery for the 2004 model:


http://www.batteryweb.com/motorcycle-batteries-detail.cfm?model=65958%2D04


If you like other options from other brands, please visit:

http://www.batteryweb.com/motorcycle-batteries-list.cfm?ID=697&motorbrand=Harley%2DDavidson&cc=883


Hope that helps.

i would inspec the valves-then chec condition of ignition components or carbs-recommend purchasing clymer repair manual-they hav pages of troubleshootin

Short to main accesories which is dash lights headlamp and tail Lamp not the break lamp it's prolly on the ground wire side since some lights still work ther getting juice but the ground that compleats the circuit to the break lights gets there through the break switch ok but the ground from the key on switch isn't getting to the constant on light start at the try to run new grounds to anyplace and if the lights com on its in the harness and u start tracing it down when the bike is striped of tank and sheetmetel it will be Easter to find look at the harness connectors for green oxidation and loos fitting wires

Unless an aftermarket device has been installed on your bike, you must take it to a dealer to get the fuel map reworked.

Enrich the fuel mixture by going to a bigger low speed idle jet.

you need to either have a new trasmission put in or a new 5th gear new 5th is usually a little cheaper

Look at the end of your starter. There's a five-sided plate on the end held on with three small screws. Just above it, there is a single wire plugged onto the starter. Pull this wire off and connect either a test light or a volt meter to the wire. Turn the switch on and press the start button. You should see the light light up or the meter should show battery voltage. If you show voltage at this wire but the starter doesn't run, the problem is in the starter. If no voltage at the wire, your starter relay may be bad. I think the starter relay for your bike is behind the triangular plate on the left side of your bike. The relay is a one inch plastic cube just like the relays on most automobiles. With the switch still on, press the start button. You should feel the relay "click". If it does click, you might want to replace the relay and retest the starter wire. If it does not click, it could still be the relay or it could be the wiring between the start button and the starter relay. Since I don't have a wiring diagram for your bike, you may need to purchase a service manual to obtain one or find it from another source. I wouldn't think the installation of a muffler would have anything to do with the starter operation.

Good Luck
Steve

when you stop at a light you need to reve the throttle to get it in to nuteral the gears in the ****** are not lined up you should sift it first before you stop.

Sounds like you have a broken shifter pawl. It's behind the clutch assembly in the primary cover. You'll have to take the outer primary cover off, remove the engine sprocket and clutch assembly. The shifter mechanism is behind the clutch assembly. I would suggest the purchase of a service manual if you plan on fixing the bike yourself. In this particular case, the pictures in the book are worth a thousand words. It will show you how to adjust the shifter pawl with a simple picture where it would take me four pages to describe how to do it and we still may not get it right. Look at it this way, if you fix the bike yourself, the money you save by using the book will more than pay for the book and the next time you use it, it's free. At today's labor prices, it don't take long. Thirty minutes to an hour labor will pay for the book.

Good Luck
Steve

Yes the primary case-transmission require it's own oil as the lubricant for this area is not provided by the engine oil. There is a drain plug located at the lower point of the case. Remove the plug and drain any oil that may be in the primary case. When finished, add one quart of oil to the case through the access hole at the top of the primary case where you check the tension on the primary chain.

Good Luck
Steve

Sounds like your final drive belt is broke. Put the transmission in low gear with the engine off and try pushing the bike. If you can push the bike with the transmission in gear and the belt is not broke, it could be the front belt pulley is stripped in splined area where it goes on the countershaft. to check that take the rear master cylinder loose and remove the front pulley cover. Put the transmission in low gear with the engine off and push the bike. If the front pulley turns and the countershaft does not, the pulley is stripped.

Good Luck
Steve