20 Most Recent 2004 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It's going to be about 1000 pounds. Don't forget your tires have their own load rating as well as the front and rear axles.

buy the factory manual, shows all the sensors and fuze locations..

under the seat

here is the table according to h-d a solo rider up 150 lbs. is 0 psi, 150-200 lbs is 0-10 psi, 200-250 is 5-15 psi,with passenger and rider up to 150 lbs is 10-15 psi,up to 200 lbs is20-25 psi, max weight is 20-35 psi good luck ride safely

I don't think I've ever seen a diagram of the routing of the clutch cable. The cable comes from the left handlebar to the frame. It runs down the left side of the frame, between the front engine mount on the frame and the engine. Along the lower frame tube on the right side of the bike and up to the bottom of the chrome clutch release housing on the right side of the transmission. I hope this helps. Good luck

12 point 10mm

Just a idea here, but I have heard the the fuel pump is also powered through the oil pressure sensor, the fuel pump relay starts the bike, and then the oil pressure switch takes over, as soon as it is running, caused by the oil pressure, that way if you tip it over, you loose oil pressure and it will kill fuel so it doesn't keep running.
So in therory, if you cranked it enough, build up oil pressure, and presto,,, it's running.
I'm sure that a real Harley mechanic can do better.
Thanks,
Paul

After removing the wheel assy. the tire is tubeless and should be left with a professional that can change tire on a machine simmilar to a car tire machine so the rim is not damaged then the new tire should be balanced also on a machine

From farrel at the handle in front of the bars,down left front frame down tube,under regulator to clutch. No binding or restriction is key

More than likely you got something askew on the ramp. The piece with the little balls in it.

well we sean them go bad about 20,000 miles if they look good then then i would just check them every 10,000 hope this help some guy will make it to 50 000 and do the head work at that time that harley recomendation on the head work

I think you turn the steering all the way to the right, push down on the large knob and turn it to the "lock" position. I think that's right but then I've never owned one of these bikes and I do not work on the locking mechanisms. If that doesn't work, find a dealer online and write either the service department or the sales department. They should be able to answer your question.

If your carb is the original Keihen CV type carb, there is an angle fitting going into the carb. This fitting is made of plastic and brass. The brass part is pressed into the carb but the plastic cracks as it gets old. This may be where your fuel leak is originating. This is difficult to repair but it can be repaired. V-Twin sells the replacement fittings. The carb must be removed from the engine to replace this part. The cost of the part is about five dollars U.S.. The labor may cost you a bundle depending on where you take the bike. I do them here in my modest shop. It doesn't take any "special" tools.

Another place that these carbs will leak fuel is the accelerator pump. If your bike stumbles when you take off from a stop light or stop sign, you may have a bad diaphragm in your accelerator pump. If you remove your air filter housing and backing plate, you'll see short rod on the right hand side of the carb going into a small plate on the bottom of the carb. This is the accelerator pump. It has three screws that holds the plate on, one long screw and two short ones. If you see fuel coming up from around the hole the rod goes into, your diaghragm has a hole in it and your need replace it. This job can be done without removing the carb from the engine but it is easier to take the carb off. Again, part is relatively inexpensive but labor is a biggie.

Any service manual will tell you how to replace the accelerator pump diaphragm but they won't tell you how to replace the fuel inlet fitting. If you need help with that, write me directly and I'll tell you how to fix either one. [email protected] Good Luck!

Code P0261 indicates the front injector circuit open/low and p0263 indicates the rear injector circuit open/low. Because both injectors are sending a code, the only place where they have a common connection is at the system relay. Check for a loose plug or connections at the relay or possibly the relay its self could be starting to malfunction. To find the right relay the color of wires going to it are, Y/g, Be/g, G/o, W/bk. The relay gets 12 vdc power from the ECM on the Be/g wire which also powers the fuel pump it is grounded through the ECM.

if the 04 is the same as my 05 ultra (and i belive it is) the rear caliper can not be removed with out pulling the axel out, and taking the 3 big star bolts out will split the caliper in half, (it is a 2 peice)

take the 2 small star bolts out, use a stiff putty knife to push the pistons back, before you pull the old pads out, make sure you take the cover off the master, slip new pads in, start with the frount and put the bolts thru to hold it then the rear

when you retighten the bolts you want the hear a "pop" that means the rear tip of the bolt is past the retaining spring, if you dont hear a pop the bolts will work there way out, (found this out the hard way, $129 new rotor, $195 new caliper)

Disconnect battery , remove the outer primary case, pull back the lock tab on the starter jackshaft, unbolt the retainer screw, then remove the two starter bolts from the right side, sometimes you need to loosen the oil tank mounts to get at these, slip the starter and coupler out as a unit, replace the coupler and jackshaft the same way they came out when the new starter goes in, install bolts , retighten the jackshaft bolt and bend over the retainer, install and fill primary case, connect battery thats it buddy

Your 139T rear belt is part number 40024-97 or an updated part number. they cost anywhere up to $200 and at least that much to have put on! Hope this helps.

JP

Remove your "new" heated gear harness, test functionality of audio. When installing the heated gear run new power and ground wires. Unless installing HD items and directed to use existing circuit. Good troubleshooting practice, if it nolonger works undo what you did then move forward after it works again. Hope this helps.

JP

Raise bike on a scissor jack - Take off left exhaust pipe by removing the clamp holing it on to the pipe coming from engine. Then remove the mount from below saddle bag which holds the top of the exhaust pipe on. Then remove the c clip on right side of the wheel stem. Then using a ratchet and socket remove the wheel stem from the left side of the bike. As wheel comes down make sure you take the belt off. To put it back on just do everything backwards. If you don't have someone to help you hold the wheel up use a pry bar and a block of wood as a fulcrum. You can raise the tire using it and push the wheel stem in from the left side. DO NOT FORGET THE C CLIP

Check to make sure that the wires leading up to the gas tank are plugged in. There should be 2 wires under the seat towards the bottom of the gas tank. I believe yellow/green.... That's where the power is coming from. That same wire is also tied into the fuel injectors, ecm, and the coil. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb