20 Most Recent 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra Glide classic - Page 5 Questions & Answers

The outer and inner primary covers and everything inside the primary drive, the exhaust system, the starter, and the rear swing arm.

Good luck
Steve

From my experiences with earlier models, H-D oil pressure gauges are wildly inaccurate. It could be the sender unit that is causing the change that you're seeing. Watch it for a few days and see what it does. If your engine has an oil pressure problem, it will start rattling like a can of rocks and it will not run well. You might want to try changing the oil pressure sending unit.

Good Luck
steve

A Harley-Davidson engine is what is known as a "dry sump engine" in that it doesn't carry it's oil supply in the crankcase but rather in an external oil tank. In your RK, that oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. There are two drains on the bottom of the oil tank on the bottom of the transmission. One looks like a plug and the other looks like a recessed pipe plug. The large plug on the left front corner of the pan is the engine oil drain. The smaller pipe plug type drain is the transmission drain.

Good Luck
Steve

Good Luck
Steve

This happens when the engine trys to fire on the first "upstroke' of the pistons before those big flywheels get to spinning. This is common on stock ignition systems as far as I know. Harley may have changed the systems and I might not know about it but I doubt it. Some aftermarket systems, such as the Crane HI-4 have a spark delay system. The plugs will not fire until the engine has turned over three times. This gets those flywheels spinning and eliminates the start up kick back.

good luck
Steve

If you bike is equipped with a carburetor, it sounds like it needs to be adjusted just a bit. If the "anti-tamper" plug has been removed from the idle mixture screw tower, you can adjust the idle mixture from the bottom of the carb for the fastest smoothest idle. The adjust the idle speed using the idle stop screw at the top front of the carb.

Good luck
STeve

First, you must determine whether the vibration is being caused by the engne or something else. When you feel the vibration, pull the clutch in and allow the engine to slow down. Does the vibration go away? If not, this tells you that the vibration is in the chassis somewhere. If it does, it's likely to be something to do with the driveline.

Now, a word of information. A Harley-Davidson is a 45° degree V-Twin engine. As such, the engine cannot be perfectly balanced. A vertical twin or a horizonal twin can be balanced perfectly but the Harley engine is as far as possible from either of these two conditions. This is one reason why Harley engines shake. The Softail series of motorcycles use the "B" engine which is a counter balanced engine to get away from the vibration. In most cases, Harley does a pretty fair job of getting their engines balanced close enough to be rideable. There are some products out there made to help the vibration problem.

Steve

If your engine is equipped with a carburetor, check the accelerator pump. Remove the air cleaner cover and the air filter. With the engine OFF and the petcock on, crank the throttle to the wide open position. Watch the small brass thing just inside the mouth of the carb as you do this. You should see it squirt a stream of fuel into the carb. If not, you need to rebuild the accelerator pump in the carb.

If it's fuel injected, you'll have to take it to a dealer.

Good luck
Steve

Ok, to adjust your clutch cable, follow your cable down to the bellows that covers your cable adjuster. Slide the adjuster up or down to gain access to the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards as far as it will go.

Now, remove your derby cover. You'll see screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Loosen the locknut and turn the center bolt inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the bolt as you'll be releasing the clutch. Back off and do this several times until you get the feel of what you're doing. Turn it inwards until you feel the resistance. Once you feel this stop and back up about 1/2 turn or so. The book says 1/2 to 1 full turn but I've had best luck at 1/2 turn. Lock the locknut down and reinstall the derby cover.

Now, at the cable adjuster, turn the adjuster screw outwards until you have about an 1/8" freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the locknut. Before you slide the boot back over the adjuster, put some oil or something on the adjuster to keep it from corroding.

Good Luck
Steve

I wouldn't think one as new as yours would have swingarm problems. Have you checked your air shocks lately? The FLHTC has air assisted suspension on the front and rear as best as I can remember.

One other thing, I have heard people complain about Dunlop tires. They say that they don't like them because of that problem. I've never noticed a problem with Dunlops but I ride a Wide Glide. I have recently changed to Metzler 880's tires. They seem to handle well but the braking is not too good on them. The rear tire will lock up and never make a sound. You don't know it's locked until the bike tries to go sideways a bit. Not good.

Good Luck
Steve

sounds like you have lost all the oil presher,,,first check if it has oil in it? if it has dont run the engine till you have given it a realy good looking at,,this engine wont live very long without oil presher
it could be some thing simpel like a sheared off drive pin on the oil pump

check under the frame on the exhaust side of the bike, around about where the oil tank is, I think from memory it has a torx plug or a 1/4inch square hole in the plug
hope this helps you

Hi there. The first thing to do is, remove anything that may be in the way, or prevent the cover from coming off.
Example, remove the foot boards, mabey the gear lever, and /or linkages as well.
Dont forget to drain the primary oil first, locate the small drain plug underneath the primary. The rest is easy, loosen and remove all the bolts surounding the cover and remove them. With all the bolts removed, the cover will more than likely remain in place. Using something soft, like a rubber mallet, tap on the primary cover in various places to dislodge the old gasket as it will be stuck. You will need a new gasket, and any other o rings or seals. Make sure you scrape and clean all the old gasket off the engine, and your new primary cover gasket surface must be clean as well. Very easy to put back together, new gasket, no need for any glue or adheisve on the gasket, in fact i recomend a good smear of grease on the gasket, and primary cover surfaces, reason for this, next time you need to remove it, the gasket wont stick, and will come away easy. Dont forget to add a little new primary oil afterwards.

150, then EEE, means there is no signal.

Harleys do vibrate. Mine does too.

Underneath the transmission there are two drain plugs. The center one is the transmission drain. The drain plug near the front left is the engine oil drain. I always add three quarts with the filter change, start the engine and run a few minutes and then check the oil with the dipstick. There are two marks on the stick. One is "Full Cold" and one is "Full Hot". Fill to the full cold mark, do not overfill.

Good luck
Steve

Look under the transmission. This is the oil pan. There are two drain plugs. The one in the center is the transmission drain plug. The drain plug near the front on the left side is the engine oil drain plug. Three quarts of oil with a filter change then check the level on the stick. There are two marks on the dipstick. One is "Full Cold" and the other is "Full Hot". Do not overfill.

check fuse leftside of bike

if you put 32 oz of primary oil in the primary case then you have enough oil in there already. Never put more then 1 full quart or you will have leak issues. The way I do it is to have the bike upright and level and look through the primary inspection cover and as long as the chain is in the oil a little bit then your fine.

.007 (about the thickness of a piece of flagging tape for reference) maybe within spec.
Check your bike over thoroughly to see if you can find the source of the hammering sound. Use a flashlight, remove bags and trunk, these trunks do make some noise. Also check mufflers and supports particularly under the bags where they have sliding type mount.
If you don't find anything after inspection, do this.
File a complaint with the NHTSA right away, let the dealer and Harley know this.
File a complaint with the local BBB, it does not usually do any good, but it will be on their record.

Keep after them until you feel comfortable that it is OK or it's fixed.