well i would make sure you have at least 12 volts at battery then make sure all ground at battery are tight and pos on battery is tight the at starter make sure the big wire has 12 volts or more at it then the little wire going to starter solenoid when you push but should get 12 volts at it if not you may have bad ignition or security system may be looking it out but the little key light may be flashing if it is hope this helps
Hi,
We ride the same bike as you and had the saddle bikes fitted when we first bought the bike new. Yes, you will definately need a fitting kit, you do with all the bags, however be very careful about what bags you buy. We have the original 'money bag' shaped bags which were particularly designed for the bike and to match the saddle. The were very expensive and were the biggest waste of money ever! They are so impractical if you have a set of wet gear in each side they are full to bursting and the small opening at the top makes them very awkward. Just last year Harley bought out a new, bigger, set, I don't know what the top opening is like but it has to be better than the ones we have, we are even considering swapping to the new ones as we tour quite a lot.
Hope this helps.
I would check the coil first and see if it needs replaced .If it's new and you still have reciept ,take and get a replacement coil for the one you bought and make sure your wires coming out of everything have power be tracing the system to see if there might be something shorting.
test your battery.or if you have a jumper box hook it up to your battery and try starting it if it starts you know its your battery.Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year of riding.
On my 89 heritage flstc, with a 3 quart oil tank, I use just about 2.75 quarts to allow for expansion. Also I scratched a mark on the dip-stick to let me know if it gets too low
No.Although, it is a common practice to de-tune bikes at the factory so that they meet emissions requirements. All new injected HD's can expect a 4-6% increase in horsepower and 2-3% increase in torque just by dyno tuning the bike straight off the showroom floor.
If you're riding a Low with a carb, then you do not need to have it re-jetted for slip-on's. If you're changing the exhaust from where it bolts to the engine, then yes you should. Dyno tuning is not as useful on carbureted bikes compared to injected ones, in fact I could tune a carbureted Low just as easily with an Exhaust Gas Analyzer as a dyno and save you $300.
You're probably not that interested in minor differences in horsepower if you're doing slip-ons rather than a whole Screaming Eagle Stage 2 kit. Bolt 'em on and ride...
Sounds like the same symptoms as an automotive crank position sensor (CPS). I believe your motor is equipped with one as part of the electronic monitoring system. That would probably cure the dying out problem. It may or may not also solve your miss.
this may help,try checking that your fuel tank is venting properly,if it has a blocked vent then it will create a vacuum in the tank and will not allow fuel to drop to the carbs,once the engine has stopped the suction from the carbs to the tank stops,the vacuum then disappears and the fuel can then run to the carbs,my bike did something similar and it turned out to be a blocked vent....hope this helps
In your manual, some things changed and some things didn't. Exactly what has changed, your guess is as good as mine. I would guess that most of the changes would be electrical but I think Harley went to a six speed transmission in '06. Harley doesn't change a lot of stuff at one time. Usually, 95% of the stuff is the same from one year to the next. There are parts on your bike that have not changed since 1936. If you look at harley part numbers, there is a five digit number followed by a dash and two digit number. The two digit number is the year that part was first used in a bike. Like "xxxxx-54" means the part was introduced and first used in 1954.
easy job , takes about twenty mins or an hour for perfection. instrutions are good in the pack from jp.but here goes ; remove each light from bars using allen key ,cut wire at about 4" from indicator, remove dog bone from indicator and fit new bracket and bolt , tighten to the point that you can twist the light if you have to for leveling them when finished,next remove lower fork bolt and install light complete with new bracket on to fork with new longer bolt tighten to spec. same sequence for other side .now you have the job of reconnecting the wireing with crimps and heat shink sleaving.if you still need a picture pls email [email protected]
No you don't, it is however for most of us a lot easier if you do. Check or mark your axle position on both sides before loosening or removal. After putting things back together check your belt tension. Hope this helps.
A website called Motorcycleid.com that offers a variety of parts and accessories for your Harley Davidson, including battery mounts and hardware. I couldn't find the exact size of the bolt that fits the battery box on your 2005 Harley Davidson Lierider. However, you can try contacting Harley Davidson's customer service at 1-800-258-2464 and ask them for the bolt size . They may be able to help you locate the bolt or suggest an alternative
'd1ag' for Diagnostic or Service model.
To enter the diagnostic system and retrieve a trouble code, hold down the trip reset button while turning the ignition from off to on. This will allow you to cycle through the categories, and see which one indicates a code.Feb 9, 2021
