20 Most Recent 1985 Honda CB 700 SC Nighthawk Questions & Answers

If you've already bled the hydraulic clutch system, and you're still experiencing difficulty pulling the lever with no apparent kinks or obstructions in the lines, there are a few other potential issues to consider:

1. Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder Issues: Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for any signs of leaks or damage. If either of these components is faulty, it can lead to a loss of hydraulic pressure. Replace or rebuild the faulty cylinder if needed.
2. Clutch Fluid Contamination: Ensure that the clutch fluid is clean and free from contaminants. Contaminated fluid can affect the performance of the hydraulic system. If the fluid is discolored or contains debris, consider flushing the entire system and refilling it with fresh clutch fluid.
3. Air in the System: Despite bleeding, there might still be air trapped in the system. Ensure that you've thoroughly bled the system, starting from the master cylinder and working your way down to the slave cylinder. Sometimes, it may take multiple bleeding sessions to completely remove all air bubbles.
4. Clutch Cable Adjustment (if applicable): If your motorcycle has a hydraulic clutch, cable adjustment may not be applicable. However, if it uses a cable-operated clutch, check for proper cable tension and adjust it according to the manufacturer's specifications.
5. Clutch Components Wear: Check the clutch components such as the clutch plates and springs for wear. Worn-out components may result in poor clutch engagement. If necessary, replace the clutch components.

If the issue persists after checking these aspects, it might be worthwhile to consult with a professional motorcycle mechanic. They can conduct a thorough inspection and diagnose the problem accurately. It's important to address clutch issues promptly to ensure safe and reliable operation of your motorcycle.

I think you should check your clutch adjustment. You can take a look at a generic service manual here: http://hrca.onda.com/Over heating ... Check all of your engine's cooling systems ... fins, air flow .. This engine is air and oil cooled. Are you getting a overheat warning or does it just stop?

u may have broke headlite inside-testit with a battery--is rearlite on--

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
Can you please tell me more of the problem? You mean there's no spark to the plugs?
Thank you.

front fork fluid capacities right 423cc (14.3 oz) left 429cc (14.5oz) the fluid to be used is ATF according to the Honda Shop Manual

Below is a diagram. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Change the oil.

no need to gap them if they are new. straight out of the package is just fine. you only ever need to gap used plugs after you clean them, cause as they wear the gap gets bigger.

There is a one way clutch that grabs onto a smooth cylinder on the side of a large gear inside the motor. The smooth barrel surface is damaged or chattered so the one-way clutch will not grab on the side of what Honda calls the "starting sprocket". A chain connects the starting sprocket to a smaller sprocket that has the starters spline plugged into it. The chattered surface does not allow the three small barrels of the starter clutch to grab and turn the motor over. The sprocket runs about $70 and the gasket runs about $30. This is an internal motor part so you will have to take apart the motor to get to it. If you go to bikebandit.com you can look at the microfiche for the motor and see the parts you are looking for.

Put a piece of electrical tape on the wire or repair it as needed. Then check the fuse block and you will for sure have to replace the main fuse on the starter solenoid. Then it should start and run as before.

You have a bent shift fork. The engine needs to be removed from the frame then the bottom half of the engine center case gets separated from the top half. This allows access to the gears, shift drum and shift forks. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

check your one way starter

Honda always grounds the turn signals separately (usually a green wire)not directly to the frame.Not hooking up the running light should not effect anything except forward visibility to other motorists. If you have a two prong flasher relay, go get a cheap flasher relay ($5-$10) and replace it. The only problem I have ever heard of when switching to LED turn signals is a flicker / fast flash instead of a normal slow flash. This is remedied by adding diodes to the wires.

You should be able to get 6 or 7 hundred out of it.

alluminum crush washer u should have one!

take a voltage indicator, and put the wires of the tool on the batery. each wire one each pole of the batery. Black to black, red to red. Turn on the engine, and increase the idle speed until aprox. 6000 rpm. the voltage indicator should indicate voltage from aprox. 12 Volts to aprox 15 volts. if the volt are not increasing with the engine rpm, is mostly a charging relay issue.
At the idle speed, the voltmeter should indicate minimum 12,5 -13 volts. If not, the same issue.
The test should be made with the battery charged and in great working condition.

sounds like you may have burnt out one of your rings are you burning oil?

r all the mufflers the same heat--make sure carbs r ok n gas is gitten to um--inspec plug wires n the rest of ign for wear and bad contacts--with an ohmeter n repair manual varius test can be done-sayonnara