Hi, Leslie and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/110811-1985-250es-No-spark How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle HONDA CBX250 CBX 250 BIKE WORKSHOP SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL Download Manuals... $15 https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBX250 Twister Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous kung ano ang iyong katanungan? Hindi ko maintindihan kung ano ang sinisikap mong sabihin, kailangan ko ng higit pang mga detalye kung ano ang nangyayari, subukang ipahayag ang iyong isyu sa anyo ng kung ano ang iyong isyu ay kabilang ang isa o higit pa sa mga sumusunod na salita: Sino-Ano-Kailan-Saan-Bakit Tapusin ang iyong pangungusap na may tandang pananong sa halip na isang panahon. Kung ang Ingles ay hindi ang iyong pangunahing wika at isulat ang tanong sa iyong katutubong wika ay isasalin at sabay-sabay. Sa wakas, siguraduhin na isama mo ang Year-Make-Model ng iyong motorsiklo o iskuter. Mangyaring mag-click sa word na "komento" sa ibaba at ibigay ang impormasyong ito sa kahon na walang limitasyon sa mga salita at pagkatapos mong i-post ito, lumilitaw ang isang icon ng alerto ng komento sa aking screen na magpapahintulot sa akin na tumugon sa iyong orihinal na tanong sa isa pang kahon ng komento sa ibaba mo. Good luck at magkaroon ng isang kahanga-hangang araw.
Hi Anonymous, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Honda but despair not for a mere $15.00 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. 1985 Honda Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals
I have twou TMX155 pero di naman masyadong nagiging problema ang Timing madali lang yan kung bago ang spark plug mo your not required to udjust it anymore kasi standard na po iyon, better chek the contactpoit kung sakto po sa kompresion stoke dapat po mga 15degrees po befor the top dedcenter compresion stroke nag start na po bumukas yung contact point, or 30 degrees befor top ded center dumidikit na po yung camlobe sa contactpoit arm yunpong camlobe yunpo yung nandun sa magneto na natatangal minsan yung may spring makikita nyo po yung isang side ng outside surface e mas mataas kesa dunsa kabila allways put the camlobe inline w/ the keyway po yung kunya yung parang half moon, pag ganon po ang alighnement ay walang problema, then balik po sa contact point timing kung tama din po yung timing, at nag luluko parin dapat po check nyo na yung ignition coil baka po damage na pag malamig pa ok pero po pag uminit na nagbabago napo yung delivery ng koryente so it should be replaced na, pag po ang TMX ay gamit na gamit sa tricycle after 6 years po ang advice kopo palitan po ang ignition coil, carburador at yung camlobe, para po maiwasan na palaging nagluluko kasi po wornout na po iyung mga pyesa, yung carburador pag 6 years na naka trycicle matakaw na po sa gasulina maski palitan pa ng karayum at dinarin po bumababa ang minor, yun naman pong camlobe ay masyado napng mababa kya mahirap na pong makuha yung accurate timing, yun namang ignition coil ay mahina na ang deliver ng koryente. ibang mechanick dinila inaadvice ito kasi ayaw nila gumastos ang costomer pero mas makakatipid kayo dito kesa pabalik balik sa mekaniko. yunpong makina as long na inaalagaan po ninyo sa langis dipo agad masisira yan at aslong na di anaabuso yung sobrang tulin sobrang bigat ng hatak aabot po yan ng 8 to 9 years bago mag overhoul. tnk's (ashley mercado)
with your symptoms it could be bad or old gas, wrong or old oil, blow-by (oil getting into the combustion chamber) or worn valve guide. This symptom could also be related to the carburetor. If you are running the air/fuel mixture too lean or rich, then it could be fouling the plugs or over-heating the cylinder. What have you inspected? What tests have you run so far? How old are the spark plugs? Have you been inspecting them periodically? A compression test will help narrow down your search. I hope to hear back from you. Let me know if you have more questions but you have a bit of work ahead of you. Good luck.
the shut off valves for the float bowl are probably stuck-or not seating properly --remove the carbueretors and remove the float bowls ( the bottom covers ) - the valves are over the floats, near the pivot point -remove the pins that hold the floats - and remove the floats - the valves may be attached to the floats with a small klip --inspect and clean the valve and the valve seat
Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.
There are two expensive spring loaded pressure plates that when pushed together have enough friction to make the alternator turn, they are worn out and probably need to be replaced. There are two bearings in the cover that also could be part of the problem. You will have to disassemble it to find out for sure.
the bike will run off the battery untill the battery runs out of power a short trip will be ok charge the battery at work and it should be ok for the way home take a spare battery with u just in case.good luck
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in a hot area like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.
have you read the manual? If your bike has a large fairing/windshield then you may need to remove it to get at the clocks to unscrew the speedo cable. http://www.ukcbxclub.com/
Rate me if this helps you.
generally there is no adjustment on the hydraulic system on your clutch. but some air in the system or a dirty master cylinder can produce these same type of symptoms. i would reccomend trying to bleed the system to see if you can get better results. air in the hydraulic line can be a pretty common problem.