20 Most Recent 1986 Honda VF 500 F Questions & Answers

Hi.

Depends on what you want to get. In theory the fork can be between 0 and 43 psi. In practice if you put 40 psi it will be completely stiff and seals may start leaking.

In practice the front take 0 to 12 psi, and rear shock from 7 to 21 psi.

If you need street performance put more pressure. Settings for comfort in long travels will require lower pressure.

Here tables from service manual:

FRONT



REAR:

Rear shock absorber air pressure can vary from 0.5 kg/cm2 (7 psi) to 1.5 kg/cm2 (21 psi) as the road conditions become more severe or the load increases.

For the front here below the procedure from service manual. I suggest staying far from the 43 psi limit suggested if you do not want to break the seals.

8. Make sure the front wheel is off the ground and inflate the forks to 0-0.4 kg/cm2 (0-6 psi). Do not use compressed air; use only a small hand-operated air pump.
CAUTION
Never exceed an air pressure of 43 psi (3.0 kg/cm2) as damage may occur to internal components of the fork assembly.

try the spark unit

Your idle should be between 1000-1100k rpm

If the clutch system is hydraulic, the an overhaul to fit new seals to the master and slave cylinders should fix the problem.

will it push start ..i find that the reason most bike have this problem is due to fuel delivery mostly clogged filters. take out the filter then try and push start it and you can thank me later!! you do know how to push start a bike right..if you dont just ask me.

3.9 liters / change. Check also oil level thru deep stick after several minutes run the engine. Add some more if level is low, but always keep the level lower than max sign.

More than likely, the idle (pilot) jet is partially clogged. This is common when it will idle fine with the choke on, but won't idle without it. Sometimes a fuel treatment will clean the carburator, but not usually successful in cleaning the idle jet. Usually it requires removing the carburator bowl and and cleaning with the use of a gauge wire. The idle jet is usually recessed (next to the main jet).

A good video to show a generic carburator rebuild can be found at this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exa467_eoXw The guy goes through a pretty detailed description while going throught the process. The carburator will not look exactly like yours, but it will be similar internally.

not changing your oil regular,
low oil, over rpm
if coolant is needed and levels are low
there is a lot of reasons

Any idea how long the bike sat without running? So assuming spark plugs weren't wet, it's likely not getting fuel. If it hasn't run for a year or so, you'll have to empty the fuel tank and drain the carbs. Try fresh gas and new spark plugs. Make sure the fuel tap is on and fuel is flowing into the carbs. Also be sure your choke is closing when you move the lever. Check to be certain kill switch is in the run position. Charge battery so you have good cranking power.

the old gas has returned to its natural state....TAR

gum rid or carb cleaner but only carb body gets wet, No rubber, plastic are removed

To read the serial number on a Honda PC50 moped, follow these steps: Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): The VIN is a unique code that provides information about your moped. On a Honda PC50, you can find the VIN in the following places: Under the Air Filter Cover: Look on the left-hand side, just above the engine. The VIN should be stamped there. It typically looks like this: PC50 - 1234567. Frame Number: The frame number is another term for the VIN. It's usually located near the air filter body. Decode the VIN: The VIN contains important details about your moped, including the year of manufacture. Here's how to interpret it: The 9th digit of the VIN is a check digit. The 10th digit represents the year code. For example: A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 1 = 2000 2 = 2001 3 = 2002 Note that if your scooter was manufactured between February 1986 and February 1987, it's likely to be a '87 model; Additional Resources: If you have the full VIN, you can use the NHTSA VIN decoder to get detailed information about your moped. Alternatively, you can call Honda with your VIN, and they will provide you with the necessary information.

Question edited for clarity and add magic word. The Owner's Manual covers basic repairs and is free. https://www.google.com/search?q=honda+anf125+innova+service+and+repair+manual

Honda ANF125 Innova Service and Repair Manual

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Honda ANF125 Manuals

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Scooter Manuals and User Guides for Honda ANF125. We have 1 Honda ANF125 manual available for free PDF download: Owner's Manual ...

Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter (2003 - 2012)

Haynes Manuals https://haynes.com > en-gb > anf125-innova-scooter Detailed repair guides and DIY insights for 2003-2012 Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter's maintenance with a Haynes manual. ..

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..

Check the wiring, especially the engine earth lead.

On the bottom of your speedometer on the left side there is 2 buttons press the far left one for a couple of seconds and the light should go on

Question edited for clarity. The RC26 has a few modifications, but nothing that should alter the wiring.

1986-1987 - VFR700F / VFR700F2 (RC26)

The "Tariff Buster"[ 700cc VFR700F was almost identical to the 750cc version, with minor changes to graphics (no 750 on the lower fairing), shorter stroke, different cams, and altered ignition timing. Otherwise the VFR700F2 was mechanically the same as the standard F, but had an upgraded rear shock and fork internals alongside square gauges. Wiring diagrams and manuals https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+honda+vfr+700f+wiring+diagram ..

For a 1999 Honda CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are essential to ensure proper engine assembly and function. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommended torque settings to prevent damage to the engine components. For the CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are typically as follows: 1. **Initial Torque:** 29 Nm (2.9 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) 2. **Final Torque:** 64 Nm (6.4 kgf-m, 47 ft-lbs) It's essential to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence and in multiple stages, gradually increasing the torque until reaching the final specified torque. The exact tightening sequence can usually be found in the service manual specific to your motorcycle model. When torquing the head bolts, ensure you're using a reliable torque wrench calibrated in the appropriate units (Nm or ft-lbs). Always follow the tightening sequence precisely to ensure even pressure distribution across the cylinder head gasket. Additionally, it's advisable to use new cylinder head bolts if the old ones have been previously tightened or stretched beyond their yield point. This helps maintain proper clamping force and ensures the integrity of the engine assembly. As always, referring to the service manual or consulting a professional mechanic experienced with motorcycle engine assembly can provide additional guidance and ensure the correct torque settings are applied during the cylinder head installation process.

found this on eBay copy and paste Picture 1 of 1 Vesrah Oil Filter for Honda VT250C V Twin Magna 1994-1995

. One possibility is that the spark plug or plug wire is faulty 1. Another possibility is that the carburetor needs cleaning and adjustment It could also be due to a valve adjustment issue or a bent rod. I would recommend taking your motorcycle to a professional mechanic who can diagnose and fix the issue. If you prefer to troubleshoot it yourself, you can start by checking the spark plug and plug wire for any damage or wear and cleaning the carburetor. However, please note that working on a motorcycle engine can be dangerous and requires specialized knowledge and tools. Please take all necessary safety precautions and follow the manufacturer's instructions when working on your motorcycle.