20 Most Recent 1986 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing Questions & Answers


Hi, Bob and the usual suspects are:
1. The front wheel or transmission drive unit has failed.
2. The drive unit tab is not properly indexed.
3. Broken speedometer cable.
4. The speedometer has failed.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Apr 13, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 09, 2018


Hi, Ray here are some options for lowering your bike depending on your needs and wallet:
1. Rear shock lowering kit.
2. Front fork lowering kit.
3. Shorter rear shocks.
4. Shorter front forks.
5. Thinner padded seat.
6. Smaller diameter wheels.
7. Lower profile tires.
Please be aware that some of these options or a combination of options will require a shorter kickstand or your stock one modified.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 17, 2018


Hi, George and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirty or clogged air filter.
2. Faulty spark plug.
3. Bad Gas.
4. Improper oil level.
5. Improper chain adjustment and lubrication.
6. Low tire pressure.
7. Dirty or contaminated carburetor needs cleaning and tuning.
8. Clogged or faulty fuel pump or injectors.
9. Improper valve adjustment.
10. Slipping clutch.
11. Improper timing.
12. Low compression.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Apr 29, 2018


Hi, Reverand for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Mar 04, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Oct 12, 2017


Hi, Tammy nothing lasts forever, make sure your AAA towing service is paid up. It's hard for me to tell you how to fix something that isn't broken but you can start by making sure your battery connections are clean and tight along with daily prayers to the Honda Gods. for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Aug 10, 2017


Hi, Anonymous you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid can not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Aug 09, 2017


Hi, Edgontarek for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Wilburconrad for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Anonymous I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fronk Forks---Plunk
9. Gears---WHINE
10. Head Gasket---HISS
11. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
12. Pistons---SLAP
13. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
14. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
15. Solid Lifters---TICK
16. Starters---CLICK
17. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Arthur before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Chuck and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, John for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Hugh you have a drive train issue and the real answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jul 01, 2017


Hi, Ladonna for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 30, 2017


Hi, Brett for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 30, 2017


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
8. Damaged petcock diaphragm allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line into the combustion chamber.
9. Contaminated fuel tank.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1986 Honda GL... | Answered on Jun 30, 2017

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