20 Most Recent 1986 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Walley, you may have to remove seat and false tank to access radiator and cap. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." GL1200 Goldwing Radiator Removal how to top up coolant 84 gl1200 Clymer Manuals Honda GL1200 Gold Wing Goldwing Shop Service Repair... 1986 Honda GL1200 Aspencade Goldwing adding coolant Google Search

I have a 1986 SEI aspencade 141,000 miles has the alternator conversion kit on it runs great

normal for voltage to increase with RPM, normal for voltage to decrease as battery reaches fully charged. make sure connectors are clean and tight.

The rear brake and the left front brake are operated by the pedal. Be sure to bleed the front brake first. This may take a lot of work. Bleed the fittings and the caliper. everything else is pretty standard. If you haven't done this before, talk to someone who has.

You need a manual for this.

That would be the starter solenoid. Usually an indicator of a weak battery.

A shop manual is your best friend.

try the goldwing road riders club

All bikes, actually all vehicles (to my knowledge) bleed at the caliper, the device that squeezes the metal disc, at the wheels. Bikes are fussy and sometimes hard to bleed, if I could suggest a method which helps, read on; 1. Use a piece of hose which fits snugly on the little "bleed valve" (a small threaded nipple on the top of the caliper body), long enough to go into a small jar, 2. Open up your master cylinder reservoir, fill it, leave the cover off. 3. Loosen the bleeder, attach the hose to it, run the other end into the jar, and put enough brake fluid in the jar to cover the end of the hose, and perhaps an inch or two above it. 4. Be sure the bleeder is open enough for the fluid to flow, slowly squeeze the brake handle or pedal, fluid and air will push into the jar under the surface level of the fluid. Be absolutely sure the reservior stays full. 5. Bleed it good, flush the old dirty stuff out. The hose under the surface of the brake fluid won't let air get back in. 6. While holding the brake lever or pedal down, remove the hose and tighten the bleeder. Make sure your reservoir level is good, DON'T overfill! Brake fluid expands when hot and may cause your brakes to stick. Wipe up brake fluid immediately, it makes a great paint stripper.

what is your question

6mm bolts ft-lbs 7-10 8mm bolts ft-lbs 37-40

Mine has always stayed on ,and never had a drain on the battery so I would just leave it alone ,I hope that this helps .

1 and 3, and 2 and 4 are on the same circuit. When for example 1 fires to combust, 3 is at the bottom of it's cycle and fires too. From this perspective, begin at the coils and work your way back and look for the obvious, broken or pinched wires, however most likely your coil is the culprit. If you have the ambition switch the wires between the coils, spin the starter (easier with the plugs out). If you have spark you know for sure. Almost 30 years old I'd just up and change it, and maybe consider changing both. Coils leak and lose efficiency with age and they can be a bear to get to.

On 24/365

replace bulb its a dubble element and one side is burned out .do this and your problem will be cured.Let me know

tyre pressure ok ? my vmax hates metzler me33 tyres and soft tyres ! it shakes a mental one at 105mph if your on your own , but 2 up fine ! lol

In a general sense, two bikes off the assembly line one after another can do the same thing. There were no substantial differences between the engines, other than more refined emission management. 40K can contribute a little, depending how hard those miles were or if it suffered overheating or some mechanical problem which took a little umph out of it. If you're real curious, do a compression test on the two and see if there's a difference. Are both bikes current on service? Plugs, timing, etc?

I had the same prob with my 1985 (years ago). Wrap the shock tubes below the tree with a rag. Then douche the shock tubes on top of the tree with wd-40. Let it sit overnight. I had to use a flat head screw driver to spread the clamp area apart a bit. Then tapped the tree clamp area with a hammer a few times, and then set a pry bar just below the clamp area. Tapped that a few times to break it loose. It has to do with grime locking the upper tubes in place. Oh, and do it on the center stand. It will give you some play.

that is a wiring problem witch is caused by down on the left side where you change gear open the casing and check the wireing