20 Most Recent 1997 Honda CB 500 S Questions & Answers

It sounds like your starter or starter solenoid are getting stuck, but it also sounds like you may be needing a new battery soon also. Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, etc. can test your battery for bad cells and tell you whether your battery needs to be replaced. Else, I would change out the starter and solenoid. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Standar Honda recommended sparkplug gap is 0.6 -0.7 mm.
Best way to measure is using wire gauge though flat gauge will do fine and make sure at the same time analyze and clean the plugs as it has sotries to tell.
Cheers

Motorcycles are warm weather bias and the only ones that will start well when cold are the new ones with Electronic Fuel Injection. Without getting into a lot of tech talk the reason our carburetor type motorcycles don't like the cold and are hard to start is because they have been set up for warm weather "tuned" if you want it to start and perform in the cold then it should be jetted and "tuned" for the cold. Yes I know what a pain this is only one reason EFI is being used that and the fuel savings.
There is another problem with ridding in the cold with a "Sport" bike and that is tire and road temperatures. When the ambient temperature and road surface is below 50 F or 10c a motorcycle tire will begin to loose grip because the rubber compound in the tires begins to get hard offering less traction. I'm riding a 2002 750 Honda Magna I have the same tricking starting as you but, don't want to have my bike set up to run in the cold because it's only going to be for a few weeks (maybe 3) at the most. Come warmer weather it would have to be reset for summer riding. With a carburetor type engine you can have it one way or the other not both. An example maybe a little extreme but think about a snowmobile in the winter the things work great but in warm weather it will give a ton of problems and you won't be able to cool the thing down enough to run it.
Sorry this isn't helping your starting problem but explaining why you are having the problem.
Be safe out there Ride to Live and Live to Ride

Without proper tools and knowledge the best way is to take it to a motorcycle shop that does this work on a regular bases. Changing coolant on a motorcycle is only one thing that needs to be done, if you just drain the stuff out and pour in new then all you have done is spent money for nothing. The system should be flushed of contaminants and mineral build up which generally takes a power flushing type machine that not only removes the old but replaces it with new coolant. Draining and refilling is just asking for problems with air locks and causing hot spots and engine damage. Also the coolant used in a motorcycle is not the same "stuff' as an automotive grade, in fact if you use an automotive grade which one would you choose? To top this off if you use an automotive grade coolant it will eat away at the seals and gaskets within the cooling system and cause the water pump to fail and or start leaking fluid, overheat and engine damage. Not trying to be sarcastic but if you have to ask how to do it then you should take it to someone that knows how to do it and save the damage to your motorcycle.

NO - SPARK
Check for spark at spark plug.
1. If no spark, test the wire to the coil with test light and see if you have power to coil.
2.If no power to coil, make sure your on/off button is on and working.Use test light.
A. Power at the switch but not at the coil indicates a broke wire from switch to coil.
B. NO power at the switch indicates ingintion switch is off or faulty and not sending power to your switch , make sure key is on. Use trest light.
3. If you have power to the coil but no spark from the coil - replace the coil

SPARK
Check for spark at the plug
1.If you have spark at the plug, but not starting - check that your carbs are getting gas.
2.Petcock Could be off, Fuel Filter could be clogged, Carbs could be dirty or clogged and your not getting any gas.
3.Pull spark plug - If no gas present then your not getting gas, if wet then you getting gas and your flooded. Make sure you have good gasoline, Bad gas won't burn.
or your bike is worn out and dont have any compression.

With Good gas, and Good Spark, and Good compresssion, the bike will run.

If your not getting gas to your motor through the carbs, pull carb off and thouroughly clean it.

This probably the overflow hose. What it does is allow the fuel a place to go in the event your needle and seat fails to close. Without this, the fuel would run into your engine, seep past the rings, and contaminate your oil.

If your bike has been sitting up for that long, you carbs probably need to be gone though and cleaned. The jets are probably stopped up and the reason your bike ran better when you stopped the hose up is that it was getting fuel into the cylinders although it wasn't the right way.

Take the carbs off and have them disassembled and cleaned.

Good luck
Steve

Try our battery connections and the earths also check the lead going to the starter motor,sounds likev high resistance bud.

IF the bike runs, then shut the gas off at the tank and let the bike run till it dies (1-4 minutes) and it's empty. Otherwise, if it is not running, then you can take the bottom bolt off the carb and it will leak out that way as well.

Good Luck

How about the carbs? Jets could be plugged. May want to put some sea foam in it first and see if it needs a good cleaning with that.
I would put a fuel inline filter on it and put fresh 91 octane gas in it.
My savage had a clogged muffler once..

i guess in order to help you i would need to know a little more.. did anything happen the last time you had it running, check power to the starter?, to make sure that the motor is not seized up you could push the bike a bit then put it in gear and see if the motor turns over at all... if the motor isn't seized the i would say you have an electrical problem between your starter , starter button and kill switch

finally sorted when I replaced both plugs. I've never come across one failing instantly before in 30 years of motorcycling (maybe that's because I ride old bm's!)

Will the clutch not disengage? when you pulling in the clutch and shift into first does the bike want to jump then die?? I see this alot on bikes that have sat for awhile. If this is what is going on it could be as simple as your plates sticking together. The clutch could be working working fine as far as opening the stack but there could be one more fiber stuck to the steel because of how long they have sat together. Hold your front brake, hold the rmps a little higher then idle and shift it into gear you'll have a good **** but it will help break the plates free of each other.
If you still have air in the line, you may need to prime the master cylinder, I have bike do this to me before where a air bubble won't free itself. the banjo bolt on the master cylinder can act as a bleeder as well, pump up your system crack the banjo bolt that will help if there is any air in the system at the master cylinder. you can also remove the slave cylinder pump it out a little then squzze the piston back into the house as fast as you can this will push the fluid and air back up toward the master cylinder and can free air that in stuck in the line. another trick is to get a lager syringe little a meat injector you may need to make a slight mod to it keep a house on it but after you do full with brake fluid, put it on the bleeder of the slave cylinder and force the fluid from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder. This pushes the fluid up hill and letting the air bubbles do what is natural and float to the top.
Let me know what happens if you need more help please feel free to contact me
M.Woodring

To read the serial number on a Honda PC50 moped, follow these steps: Locate the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): The VIN is a unique code that provides information about your moped. On a Honda PC50, you can find the VIN in the following places: Under the Air Filter Cover: Look on the left-hand side, just above the engine. The VIN should be stamped there. It typically looks like this: PC50 - 1234567. Frame Number: The frame number is another term for the VIN. It's usually located near the air filter body. Decode the VIN: The VIN contains important details about your moped, including the year of manufacture. Here's how to interpret it: The 9th digit of the VIN is a check digit. The 10th digit represents the year code. For example: A = 1980 B = 1981 C = 1982 D = 1983 E = 1984 F = 1985 G = 1986 H = 1987 J = 1988 K = 1989 L = 1990 M = 1991 N = 1992 P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998 X = 1999 1 = 2000 2 = 2001 3 = 2002 Note that if your scooter was manufactured between February 1986 and February 1987, it's likely to be a '87 model; Additional Resources: If you have the full VIN, you can use the NHTSA VIN decoder to get detailed information about your moped. Alternatively, you can call Honda with your VIN, and they will provide you with the necessary information.

Question edited for clarity and add magic word. The Owner's Manual covers basic repairs and is free. https://www.google.com/search?q=honda+anf125+innova+service+and+repair+manual

Honda ANF125 Innova Service and Repair Manual

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Honda ANF125 Manuals

ManualsLib https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Scooter Manuals and User Guides for Honda ANF125. We have 1 Honda ANF125 manual available for free PDF download: Owner's Manual ...

Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter (2003 - 2012)

Haynes Manuals https://haynes.com > en-gb > anf125-innova-scooter Detailed repair guides and DIY insights for 2003-2012 Honda Scooter ANF125 Innova Scooter's maintenance with a Haynes manual. ..

The Power Steering has failed. There has been a factory recall for a suddenly failing electrical steering shaft, that could cause the rider to loose control. This does not have to be your problem but anyhow either the electronics or the pump failed. Error codes or messages usually have to be erased by a simple reset procedure or disconnecting a plug, after repairs are done.

Question edited for clarity, but no idea what you mean by - "What do I need to do to get the gay? The clutching gauge in again?" You issue is probably that all the clutch plates are glued together. Leaving a bike for 21 years will do that. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Honda+Gold+Wing+1200+stuck+clutch ..

Check the wiring, especially the engine earth lead.

On the bottom of your speedometer on the left side there is 2 buttons press the far left one for a couple of seconds and the light should go on

Question edited for clarity. The RC26 has a few modifications, but nothing that should alter the wiring.

1986-1987 - VFR700F / VFR700F2 (RC26)

The "Tariff Buster"[ 700cc VFR700F was almost identical to the 750cc version, with minor changes to graphics (no 750 on the lower fairing), shorter stroke, different cams, and altered ignition timing. Otherwise the VFR700F2 was mechanically the same as the standard F, but had an upgraded rear shock and fork internals alongside square gauges. Wiring diagrams and manuals https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+honda+vfr+700f+wiring+diagram ..

For a 1999 Honda CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are essential to ensure proper engine assembly and function. When tightening the cylinder head bolts, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommended torque settings to prevent damage to the engine components. For the CBR929RR, the cylinder head bolt torque specifications are typically as follows: 1. **Initial Torque:** 29 Nm (2.9 kgf-m, 22 ft-lbs) 2. **Final Torque:** 64 Nm (6.4 kgf-m, 47 ft-lbs) It's essential to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the specified sequence and in multiple stages, gradually increasing the torque until reaching the final specified torque. The exact tightening sequence can usually be found in the service manual specific to your motorcycle model. When torquing the head bolts, ensure you're using a reliable torque wrench calibrated in the appropriate units (Nm or ft-lbs). Always follow the tightening sequence precisely to ensure even pressure distribution across the cylinder head gasket. Additionally, it's advisable to use new cylinder head bolts if the old ones have been previously tightened or stretched beyond their yield point. This helps maintain proper clamping force and ensures the integrity of the engine assembly. As always, referring to the service manual or consulting a professional mechanic experienced with motorcycle engine assembly can provide additional guidance and ensure the correct torque settings are applied during the cylinder head installation process.