I had exact same problem.. bottom line I had to replace selector forks (all three) and second gear cog.. If u do replace a gear cog then please take a tip from me (lesson hard learn't). Have all your gears undercut at the same time or it will slip out of another gear.. I got my bike back after 2 nd gear done and on the same day 3 rd gear started to slip. Had to send bike back and have all the cogs undercut... Now its fine.
And yes u do need to remove motor to open gearbox and u will need to replace gaskets..
Hi, Dgwgardner11 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 97 CBR900 bike starts then stops running CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for... HONDA CBR WONT START TRY THESE TIPS Honda CBR900RR Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBR900RR Fire Blade Owner Manual
i dont understand, the bike shouldent start in gear with the lever out it would jump forward when you hit the start button.. there is nothing wrong with the bike by what you say its just a neutral light, witch is a switch find the neutral indicator switch and replace it and your probelms will go away or test the one you have it should test 13ohms in neutral and OL in gear
let me know how you make out
Hi, Kssmitty48 the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hi, Vincentborca before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Fuse blowing issues need suggestions CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda... http://www.fireblades.org/forums/electronics/90265-cbr1000rr-07-keeps-blowing-10a-fuse-for-dash-speedo-display.html Honda CBR900RR Service Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBR900RR Fire Blade Owner Manual
Hi, Robbiegillbi the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. CBR929 Wont start with side stand down in neutral Honda Motorcycles... HELP Neutral Switch 97 CBR900RR Project CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for... Honda CBR900RR Service Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda CBR900RR FIRE BLADE Owner Manual
I think its very similar to my 89 NC30, there should be some rubber 'bungs' with wires on them on the back of your clocks that you can pull out and there will be some very small bulbs inside the bungs when viewed from the front.
NOTE - you may have to take out a couple screws to access the back of the clocks, but it shouldn't be anything major