20 Most Recent 2001 Honda CBR 929 RR Fireblade - Page 4 Questions & Answers

FI stands for Fuel Injection. The fuel system sensors have detected a problem. It could be anything > a dirty air filter restricting airflow, a plugged injector, an error in fuel mapping, any number of things. Serious problems can trigger the computer to prevent the engine from starting until the problem is fixed. You will need to take the bike to a dealer to have them plug in a code reader. The code reader will tell you exactly what the problem is. You can then decide if you want to fix it yourself or have the dealer do it. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

My bike runs exactly 100 degrees more than outside temp, when running, in city traffic it heats up fast. The temp will go over 210, the fans kick on at about 211. They have only come on 3 times in 10 years. So, I would assume your bike is close to the same. 900 water cooled.

from what little I know of this bike when this happened to me it was fault code (34) a little servo motor had striped its gear so was working but not opening the valve correctly
pop the cover off the HTEV make sure no dirt or debbris is obstructing the valve moving
as I said I no expert here just my bike did this and this was the result good luck

I suggest you use the new stator with the new armature. The stator is only held in place by a few screws so it is super easy to swap out. Save the old stator for future use ( if ever needed ). Please rate my answer.

You can usally tell by looking at them if you have exsperiance.But if you dont know the last timeplugs were changed I would just change them.Make sure before you install new plugs you gap them to factory specs.And be carefull installing plugs not to crossthread,thats an aluminum head and there very easy to strip out.When intstalling plugs use socket by hand so you can feal plug screwing in and then use rcchet to tighten the last lttle bit.Good luck.

take cam chain tensioner out and inspect it for wear, if there's a lot of wear then the chain and valves probably need to be replaced or maybe just adjusted.

check this link this may help

pull the sparkplugs and let it sit for an hour then put the plugs back in (clean the gaps though, they're probably fouled) and try it again...it may take a crank or 2 but it should start right up.

Should not be more than 300cc (between 275-350cc) depending how hard you want it. Use grade 10 or 15 from Castrol for normal bounce.

Good enough for thumbs up?

When u service it, did u do a complete service to clean all possible areas gunk can sits on, such as your petrol tank, fuel lines, jettings, float bowls, change your old air filter? Sounds to me it is still quite dirty and restrictive. Do a complete fuel line cleaning service and try again. Cheers.

I'm having the same problem. And put over 48hrs trying to find it and no lucky yet

if you mean the 2 pipe fittings on the underside of the fuel tank, these should each have a rubber pipe fitted to them 1 is an overflow from the cap area, fuelcould spill onto a hot engine while fueling, and the other is an expansion pipe

First of all , change your oil pressure sender . It should be easy to do and relatively inexpensive. See if that fixes the oil light going on and off. If the light stays on after that , turn off the bike and replace the oil pump. If you have a bad oil pump and continued to drive the bike , you may have caused serious damage to the motor and may end up having to disassemble the engine to determine the cause of the knock.

Two screws hold the contact base on(electronics of the switch). That may be all you need to take off to replace the bad part of the switch if that is the part that is broken. If the tumblers or broken , It say that the body of the switch is held on by one way bolts. You may have to grind or drill these off. If you can get them off you can always replace them with user friendly bolts. If some one really wants your bike they will pick it up and take it , then they can work on it in the privacy of there own shop. Most anti theft gimmicks only keep honest people honest.

what is the problem and what has been done to try and correct it, what is the charging voltage at 1500 RPMs

there are bolts on either side of the seat twords the back they must be removed then it will come right off

hi mate,mine 929 do the same noise as well from 30.000km till today 66.000km.everybody says that it is an old cbr's issue.when it will get much much worst just change the clutch plates not the discs if no need...i am used to that noise and i like it..it gives personality!!!

Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially and if have not been tried, check, clean, replace the main fuse located at the starter relay.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

Check the fittings at the steering bar and the triple tree.
Check too the tightness of the engine mounting bolts to the frame... all of them.
Hope this helps!

voltage regulator is main suspect