2002 Honda VT 750 CD Shadow A.C.E. Deluxe - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

possible clogged fuel filter

Hi, Terry and the usual suspects are: 1. Faulty hoses and clamps. 2. Loose drain plugs. 3. Punctured fins. 4. Weeping water pump. 5. Faulty radiator cap. 6. Overheated engine. 7. Old coolant. 8. Overtighten hose clamps. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.hondashadow.net/threads/empty-coolant-reservoir.290970/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvDkkxgzWoQ http://www.vt750dc.com/maintenance/service-manuals https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda https://www.ebay.com/p/2288839307

hello and welcome
that tube contains o-rings on each side of it. with the middle clip removed that tube can be shoved from one side to the other. with just enough room to get an oring replaced one side at a time. if not then worst case scenerio is the cylinders need to be removed to replace them. thank you.

Hi Maria, Smoke blowing after a ride out or on start up is normally indicative of worn valve stem oil seals, normally caused by simply wear and tear if the engine has done few miles and regular oil/filter changes with a quality oil are important. Oil seeps into to cylinders past the valves so when combustion happens the engine burns the oil creating smoke. Take it to your bike garage for checking but it's not a cheap fix unless you know anyone whos a decent diy mechanic.

There should be some bolts behind the seat or under the seat than there is on at the back of the gas tank

dont tear apart switch it's working since starter attempts to work --check battery ,starter -solenoid under load test

If it has the original seat, there is nothing to open. You remove the seat. First, remove the passenger seat by removing the bolt behind it that secures it to the fender, then lift the back of the seat, and push it forward until the front bracket is disengaged from the front bolt (if you lift the back and look closely, you will see a keyhole slot in the bracket that engages the top of the front bolt). This front bolt secures the back of the rider seat; remove it, and you can lift the seat from the back, pull, and it is free of the motorcycle. My ACE 750 is a 2002 model, and I think they are all the same.

any antifreeze at a 50/50 mix.

you have to adjust the clutch cable to ensure there is no slack in the inner cable so that the tension is restored?? Just like a car's clutch cable. The method of adjustment is what will take some working out . The adjustment may include the correct positioning of the cable in brackets. adjustments at the ends or such like. Sorry if that is not very specific but I work on cars and bicycles

Yes, they have a numbers, slow jet 45-55, main one 120-150

s270.photobucket.com/user/Mechly/media/FuseandRelay.jpg.html

put on scaner autoparts store well do for free

3 inches from the top with the shocks fully compressed! Not!! I repeat Not extended! I made this mistake once and it causes almost 0 shock travel!!! But I had no idea what i was doing then and learning by trial and error. also the repair manual i was using did not specify one way or the other. Hope this helps.oh ya if you choose to leave the shocks on the bike while changing the fork oil just raise the bike until the forks are fully EXTENDED and suck all the old fluid out with a vacuum pump or a turkey baster with a length of tubing on it

along the frame

I will tell you something, First you need to check all electricity connection for bad connection. After if generator not working normal on the poles of the battery volts will permanently change need to change stator. If you have a weak battery charge or over-charge then you can change regulator rectifier. Check all parts and after change damaged parts.

The pilot air screws are sealed to prevent tampering. If access is necessary, the plugs can be removed. The Clymer manual, number 314-3, gives a detailed procedure, with pictures. Be careful! This requires skill with a drill in a small space, and it is possible to destroy a carburetor with poor technique.
Good Luck!

Under the seat. then under your battery box

Air adjustment screws are set by the factory. They hide them under freeze plugs driven into the passage. Having never seen your carb I looked it up for an image. What I see is a Vacuum Diaphragm reliant Carb. The Jet needle is marked -'21'in this image. The C-Clip position on the needle has 3-4 different options. (used to anyway). If it's not working as is, and you do not live at high altitude,(Like Denver), Changing the position won't work. It could mean a worn Diaphragm or Spring. I see adjustment screws for Balancing the 2 Carbs ONLY. Re-Build.

The Speedmeter/Housing assembly is held onto to Fuel Tank by placing the rubber cushion on to the stand-off piece (Part of the Tank on top, welded on) and sliding the Speedo Assy over it making sure that rubber cusion while still attached to the tack fits into the recessed area on the underside of the speedo housing. Then in front the speedo housing is bolted on with 2 bolts. You should really have a Service Manual for your Bike if you are doing this level of repairs to your Bike.

The choke setting required for starting is related to the temperature. In cold weather, a full choke is normally needed ; in normal temp (70 degrees F) a moderate choke may be all that is needed. Of course, once the engine starts, you may need to adjust the choke as the engine warms up - when ready to ride, you will want to have zero choke set. Hope this helps !