20 Most Recent 2005 Honda VT 750 Shadow Aero - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Buy oil, oil filter and spark plugs from any auto parts store. Let your bike warm up before draining oil. On the bottom is the oil drain plug. Remove plug and let drain. While draining remove old oil filter. Let it sit for about 10 min to make sure all oil has been drained. Replace plug, apply small amount of oil to filter seal (just run your finger around the seal with oil on it) and tighten. You will need any type of oil filter wrench to tighten up filter. If it doesn't leak it's tight enough. I got a wrench this year for $2 at ace hardware. Then fill with oil. Go by your manual on how much oil your bike recommends. Should be around 3.3 quarts. Once you add the oil and put the cap on, crank your bike and let it run for 30sec-1min. Turn off. Pull out oil dipstick and wipe it off. With bike level place dipstick back and then remove. Oil should be between the 2 lines. Closer to the top line the better but NOT OVER THE LINE. If no dipstick you may have a clear window on the case to see the oil and the fill line. Spark plugs just remove wires (takes a little force) then just use a spark plug socket and remove them. Best is one at a time so you do not cross any plug wires. When installing the new ones HAND TIGHTHEN FIRST. Once you have done that use socket to tighten VERY LITTLE. 1/8 inch once seated. Do not over tighten. Then reapply plug wires. Hope this helps.

improper valve seating or incorrect ignition timing.......

Look under the seat ...

is the globe blown? try C.O contact cleaner

remove brake tension nut, remove bolt on frame bar, loosen bolts on shaft clamp after removing nut on shaft then knock shaft out . must have bike on jack to clear ground when working tire loose .

The ignition switch also powers the other components: the dash and the lights. When you have replaced it you have inadvertently pulled on a wire and the contact got loose. To locate the bad contact you will need to identify the power wire that goes from the ignition switch to the lights switch on the handlebar - follow it and test all it contacts.

Your oil filter part number from Honda is #15410-MFJ-D01.The Honda filter is the best quality filter available for your machine. Other brands of spin on are available from Fram, Emgo, Amsoil, etc. Your oil capacity is 3.4 quarts of motorcycle. To change your oil you will need 4 quarts of oil, a filter, and a new aluminum drain plug washer. You can reuse the old drain plug washer if it has not been squished out of shape. Your motorcycle comes from Honda usually with 10w-40 mineral base motorcycle oil. You can use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Automotive oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. Pour in 3.2 quarts of oil or till it reads on the dip stick or inspection window. Make sure the motorcycle is upright or on the center stand when checking the level . You will probably need 3.4 quarts to hit the high mark. Run the motor for a minute or two to fill the oil filter compartment with oil. Now recheck the oil level and top up as needed. If you want to try an "inexpensive" full synthetic oil that is JASO MA rated 15w-40 Shell Rotella T Synthetic fits the bill at about $23 per gallon. All brands/manufacturers make a motorcycle oil. Some are very hard to find. Just make sure that the oil you pick has the JASO MA "Japanese Rating" to protect your motorcycle engine,clutch and transmission.

Befor you pull the carbs Drain tank refill with 93 octane and add some good fuel system cleaner, allso change spark plugs. This should do the trick. Good luck

Brian, The connections seem to be right. What is not right is the blinking unit. It needs a replacement. Please do that.

Unhook connectors and check if there is a short from either terminal to ground....one probe on a terminal, other on bike ground...retest on the other terminal. You should be open (infinity) to ground...Also, if you recently have washed your bike or it has gotten wet there could be moisture in the harness connector creating a short. I hope this helps.

make sure the valve cover gasket has not slipped off the crank case breather on the rear cylender

Battery is located under the seat remove seat remove battery cover you will need a phillips head screw driver disconnect the battery cables pull battery out put new battery in reattach cables and you are done

An engine never misfires due to these things. It is always because of maladjustment of the timing at the CB points. Check the timing and set it right.

Check the clutch safety switch and the neutral safety switch.
If the bike thinks the clutch is not in, or that the engine is not in neutral, you will get no click from the solenoid.
You can try bypassing the safeties to see if that is the issue too.
Get an ohm meter and measure resistance to ground on the solenoid inputs.
One will read dead short (ground) and the other will read ... well.... something else.
the other lead is the positive.
Make sure you are measuring on the skinny leads on the solenoid and not the thick ones.
Now run a shunt wire from the positive of the battery to the positive of the starter solenoid.
It should click and the engine should turn over.
If it doesn't click, or if when you measured the leads, one was 0 ohms and the other lead was totally open, then you probably need to replace the solenoid.
If it clicks and turns over, and the switches are good, start checking your fuses with the ohm meter.
You may actually even want to check the fuses first.

Hi,
If it sat for 2 years, you can assume that the carburetors are clogged up. You will need to remove them and clean out the bowls and jets with carburetor cleaner. Make sure your tank and fuel lines are completely cleaned out too.

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because the gasoline is over to burn the cilinder head.

This could be 2 separate issues, The headlight may be blown, but the oil light is your biggest problem.
Do not run the engine until the oil light is confirmed to be faulty. take the lead connected to the oil light and remove it and the light should go out. Touch it to an earthed surface and it should light up, If this is the case your sender unit may be faulty, now the problem is that no oil pressure getting to the sender will give the same result. Sender units are not cheap but a brocken engine due to no oil pressure is a hell of a lot more expensive. Most workshops will have a pressure checking tool to avoid having to guess or gamble. Otherwise remove the sensor and turn the engine over for a few seconds, a healthy flow of oil squirting over everything means the sensor needs replacing ;)

The hardest part is securing the motorcycle with the rear wheel off the ground. Once you take the axle nut off , pull the axle out , knock out the spacer, take the nut off the brake actuator, You should be able to grab the wheel and slide it sideways off of the final drive spline. Now you should be able to roll the wheel out the back enough to take the brake panel off. you should now have access to the rear brake shoes. If you want to pull the wheel out completely you may have to let the air out of the tire to squeeze it past the final drive. Remember to regrease the final drive spline with Moly60 paste available at your local Honda dealer before you reinstall the wheel.