20 Most Recent 2006 Honda VTX 1300 S - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You should check your shock bushings. The bolt that holds the shock in place should be in the center of the eye of the shock. If Its offset, then your bushings are worn. There is an VTX 1800 bushing that is tougher, and fits a VTX 1300 also.

hi as datatool offer limited information on your bikes wireing , you will have to find your self a wireing diagram for your bike and work out which colour on the machine goes to , speedo , tacho, live, earth, neutrol, the hard part will be teaching the gears as you have to run the machine on a stand in each gear to program the unit, which will be difficult to stabalise the bike, who did you buy the unit from can they not fit it for you, datatool websit gives you a list of aproved fitting centres in you area,

You will need to pull the spark plugs out. Check them good on the gap , wet is a sign of needing
new ones, or weak spark, black all over , replace. If they are white that is good , if they are new
and wet, that is good . If they are new plugs check gap and clean up put them into plug wire and rest end of plug up against head and crank the motor look at your spark if it is good and blue, put
them back in and it will start . If it starts, try to learn a new way to start your bike. You can do this
by before cranking make sure your battery has a full charge, some times good charge will really
make it easy to start, when it is cold outside, always pull your choke all the way out, and start your bike . when it starts quickly move your choke in to about half way, and then let it warm up, before
taking off , when you think it has warmed up within a few min. push choke all the way in, and off
you will go. Good Luck

If you go to durantcycle.com and then online parts fiche then motorcycles then honda and the year and model then find the carbs there is a good diagram for the carb there from honda.

Your tire is out of balance, your steering head bearings are not tight, and you are running too low of a pressure in your front tire.

Try removing the tank, and check the rubber mounting points. Sounds like you have metal on metal somewhere. Mabey adding some extra foam or rubber for padding agaist the frame while the tank is removed.

The tank is an overflow tank for your radiator. You should use a 50/50 mixture of anti freeze and distilled water. The anti freeze should be a non-silica brand like GM Dexcool, Honda, etc. You do not want anti freeze with rust scrubbing particals because the particles will cause premature wear on the water pump seal.

Most people use what is called a Battery tender... which is just a fancy way of saying low amp (2Amp) battery charger...
Buy one , and hook up the quick connect harness provided... plug it in... and you are good to go... It is said that use of this battery tender system extends the life of the battery by as much as 100% ( double the life expectency !!).

so , dont remove it... Tend it...
For storing your bike in an are without electrical outlets... use the solar battery tender !

Were you able to solve this problem? what did you do? It just happened to me today, topped off the tank, made it 3 miles then it just dies on me. wont start up. Same bike.

There are certain things that has to be checked in this case:--
1) The clutch spring.
2) The clutch plates.
3) The clutch cable.
4) Stiff clutch.
5) Worn out clutch.
There are usually just two things that can go wrong with a clutch:

1) It slips because it is too worn. You can tell because when you're in the power-band in higher gears the engine will speed up when you open the throttle without a corresponding increase in speed of the bike. If you have a tachometer you'll see the RPMs rise as you give the bike throttle, then they'll drop as you ease off. The only fix is usually new clutch disks, but occasionally the clutch springs are weak and can let it slip too. Springs can sometimes be made tighter by putting washers in to compress them more.

2) The clutch doesn't disengage or engage  completely. This is usually noticed by the inability to get into neutral with the engine running and the bike stopped. You'll also notice the clutch begin to engage when you haven't released the lever very far. For cable operated clutches, adjust the cable so that clutch engagement is between half way and 3/4 released. For hydraulic clutches, bleed the clutch lines and try to get the air bubbles out that are causing the problem.

I'm assuming that your bike has a cable actuated clutch. Both adjustments mentioned should do the same thing. You want to move the adjustment at the lever so that the cable is about 1/4" from as loose as possible, then use the other adjustment to get your lever to begin engaging the clutch just past half way out and so that you have full engagement at about 3/4 of the way out. Or alternatively, adjust it so that you begin to feel the clutch springs by the time you've pulled the lever about half an inch.

But if nothing helps then  there's a good chance that the something wrong with your clutch.And it needs replacement.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

You have one of two things going on. (1) You need to check the kick stand switch, your bike thinks the kick stand is still down. It may have been loosened out of adjustment by vibration. If the kick stand switch is out of whack, it will restart as long as the clutch in pulled in. But as soon as you try to let out the clutch it will kill the engine, if it is in gear. (2) Next problem could be, you need to loosen up the clutch cable a little bit, The clutch control on the handle bar has a screw type of adjuster (clutch cable passes through it ), try loosening it till it's easy for you to move the bike without the engine shutting off. Hope it helps and comment if you need more clarification.

two bolts hold the seat down after it is hooked at the rear and slipped forward, there is also a guide at the front of the seat.(when reinstalling start at the front then the rear and finish with seat bolts.)
the tank has a bolt that is covered by the seat.remove it ,turn off fuel disconect hose and lift while pulling to rear.

ok start with switchs kill switch,side stand switch, clutch switch. if the motor is spinning but won't fire clean or replace your plugs, when if tipped over it could have flooded the motor and fouled the plugs.
Let me know if this helps, if not we'll take the next step
Fix it right,Ride it fast
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

use a 12 volt meter. If the v goes below 9v as soon as you turn to crank then the battery is toast. A battery can seem good but still have no cranking amps.

stupid question but did you bleed all the air out.......sometimes it take a while..........do you see any brake fluid leaking anywhere?? It could also be one of the pistons in the brake caliper busted.....but you would see the fluid
hope this helps

Consult your service manual for instructions on how to change your oil here: http://crass.on.ru/moto/manual/Honda/Honda_VTX1800C_2002-2005_Service.pdf Part number for your filter is KN-204 this a K&N filter or if you want a chrome one it is KN-204C and they are located here: www.knfilters.com/

Honda type (OEM)
Some after market plug-wires like Bosch, etc, could out-perform the OEMs, too.

there should be a front coil also on this bike most likely located under the gas tank.

The shift rail fork ends are likely worn. There are fork contact/wear pads that ride in the gear shift sliding collars, and over time, or from low gearbox oil levels/insufficient lubrication, these pads wear, allowing "slop" and preventing the gears from engaging fully. I'd check the brngs, synchro rings and the dog clutch teeth, too. If you see metal/brass or aluminum shavings in the case drain plug, oil or on the bottom of the gearcase...that isn't a good sign. This sounds like a trans issue, not a clutch issue.

Click..click..click Hmmmmm ... Ask the mechanic to be sure the ground is secure.