If my conversion math is correct it is just under 2 quarts safest way to add or change oil is to stand the bike up straight & check the sight glass if the glass is cloudy & hard to see the oil level checking it will be made easier by shining a strong torch at the glass. Regards Geoff
The float needle is probably stuck. Lightly tap on the carb bowl with a screwdriver handle or something similar. It might get the needle unstuck. If that doesn't work you will have to remove the bowl and clean the float needle and seat.
600 mile service. Change oil adjust brakes, clutch, and chain. evey week check your fluids and tires.
I dont remember what service is after 600 but change your oil more often than not. 3K for conventional and 5k for synthetic is the usual agreement.
Other than your oil, cables, and chain. I dont think your next service is till 10K miles I THINK.
If you have a torque wrench its a good idea to put all your bolts into spec every week or two, espically the rear axle nut(36mm 72.5lbFT)
My old XT 600 had a thicker side, and a flat side. If you put it on backwards it sits too close to the engine. (causing play)
Do you still have your old sprocket to compare the thickness?
Is there any fuel in the cylinders when you take out the spark plugs? If so the fuel system is dumping in too much fuel into the engine. Sunk floats in the carburetor will cause that.
remove seat and side panels to gain access to everything. unbolt the airbox there should be three or four bolts and atleast one is going to be hidden. loosen clamps on air boots from airbox to carbs and slide back air box. it might only move an inch or two but that is all you need. unhook everthing on carbs and loosen clamps on intake boots. slide and wiggle back on carbs and you should have enough room.
Usually directly under the the petrol tank but if you cant see it then look for a hose from carbi and follow it back to the the petrol tank and the fuel tap should be somewhere along the fuel line as you need to turn fuel on or off to the carbi
It is usually nice and accessible so you can easily turn fuel on, off or to reserve tank if you have one?
what bike is it ?
The first thing tp try is a simple pressure wash of the calipers just in case a little dirt is the cause. Wheel lock up surprisingly is normally caused by dirt in the master cylinder. There is a large hole in the master cylinder that feeds the brake piston in the master cylinder. Right next to large feeder hole, is a pin hole that is the brake fluid return passageway. If the pin hole becomes plugged with dirt or rust the front wheel will drag or even lock up. A simple cleaning of the master cylinder will often fix the lock up problem. If the machine is older consider replacing all of the rubber parts and refilling the system with fresh DOT 3/4 brake fluid.
Yes, drain the carbs. Also clean the air filter. Get a can of spray starting fluid to assist in getting the engine to start. Chances are the carbs are gummed up from sitting so long. You will probably end up removing the carbs for a thorough cleaning.
Front axle = 80 ft/lb
Front axle clamp bolt = 15 ft/lb
Front axle caliper mounting bolts = 25 ft/lb
Front Wheel Removal:
1. While the bike is still on the rear stand (but before putting it on
the front stand), loosen the front axle clamp bolt with a 6mm hex bit.
You do not need to remove it fully, just be sure it's loose.
2. Using the 14mm hex bit, loosen the front axle bolt. A breaker bar
makes this step easier. Once it is loose you can go ahead and place the
motorcycle on the front stand.
3. Using the 12mm socket, remove the front brake caliper mounting
bolts. Once you have the brake off of the rotor, replace the bolts back
in the caliper to prevent losing them. Hang the brake using cable ties
or twine. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL! This will compress the
brake pads and make it difficult to re-install. Repeat the process for
the other side.
4. Once the brakes are tied off out of the way, finish removing the
front axle bolt. It's helpful to use some wood to support the wheel
while removing the axle bolt. Be sure to note the spacers on the wheel
between the forks and the wheel. Remove them so they don't get lost.
These will need to be greased before reinstalling.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to replace the
calipers and torque them to 25 ft/lb. Once the front axle bolt has been
torqued to 80 ft/lb, be sure to drop the front to the ground and bounce
the front forks 4-5 times. This will seat the forks on the axle. Then
you can tighten the front axle clamp bolt to 15 ft/lb.
I checked out a few of my fav manual sites. but no luck. esp since its copyrighted. few options, of course u can go to your fav kawi shop and pay 50 bucks for 1. OR get on Ebay, usually someone has one on CD that sells for anywhere between 5-10 bucks. I had 1 for my goldwing and i have 1 for my harley.
I assume you mean the top of the sparkplugis snapped off and the base including the Edges which would engage withspark plug socket are still available. Remove any excess snapped off pieces very carefully. Once done remove using spark plug tool. If you mean that the only thing still sticking out is the top of the base of the Spark Plug then carefully determine which tool wiil best remove remaining piece. Pay particular caution to not damaging spark plug intstallationgrooves(Threading). You may have to use Vise Grips or an easy out or a reverse threaded drill bit. Do not damage threads under any circumstances. If you have to Remove your Tank to gain proper accees this is preferable to damaging the threads. Think it thru first prior to trying anything. The least preferable option will be removing the head, but this is still better than damaging the threads in the head.
