20 Most Recent 1994 kawasaki ZX-9R Ninja - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Follow the manufactures spec's for your bike! Depending on the bike, the oil used will lubricate the clutch and the transmission, as well as different parts of the engine. If the oil is lubricating the transmission you do not want to use a car oil because it will break down too fast. There are different blends as well. (Molly blends / non molly blends) That will impact the engines performance and the clutch performance and can ruin vital engine parts.

hi buddy its located under the tank you need to take the clips that hold it on the carb and then unscrew the screw on the out side of it and it will just pull off

Vérifie que ton radiateur ne soit pas bouché.
Autre problème typique, c'est la pompe à eau qui se désolidarise ( la pompe ne tourne plus avec son axe... )

I would check with another dealer or two. 15,500 miles is somewhat low miles relative to the need for new valves. Bad gas and ethanol gas is hard on valves and that may be what caused the need for valve work, assuming the dealer is honest about the bad valves. Most guys buy the four cylinder bikes for speed. They forget that the service cost on four cylinders is a lot more than for a twin.

It could be all that is needed is to reset the valve clearances. Even so, that is probably 150 pounds or so. Whatever you do, get a firm price on the work before giving them the bike.

Check the water level in the battery and add water to cover the top of the plates. Charge the battery. Replace it if it will not take a charge. A weak battery can cause the problem.

Yes only the A1's were difrant A2-A9 the motor's never realy changed A7 had a better chamchain tensioner but from A2 the motor never realy changed Note the is for ZX/GPZ900R motors and not ZX9R's

as long as the mounting holes line up ok you shouldnt have any problems fitting these

Go to the site below for a free service manual download. The very first manual in the Kawasaki section MAY be the one you want. There are several in the list. Get the closest to your year. The wiring doesn't change much so off 2 or 3 years will probably not matter.

http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

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pull the plugs and see if you can turn the engine over if you can then it is hydraulic lock from fuel leaking into the chamber onto the top of the piston so you problem will be fuel and injector related if it is still seized then that indicates a lack of lubrication and the mechanics doing the repair initially where not sufficiently interested in find out why the bearing failed in the first place bearings on crank shafts fail mainly from not enough oil pressure / supply --pump or pick up failure or lack of quality oil in use or from excessive pressure -- pump relief valve jammed and not operational when that happens the pressure can reach pressures that will remove the metal in the bearings around the oil holes and that will lead to blockages in the oil galley Talking with the repair shop may get results but you can also contact the manufacturer direct to see if there were any service recalls / bulletins related to the failure Kwakas are reliable bikes with race bread engines so there is a problem that has not been properly diagnosed from the start and unfortunately that has set you back some money

you may be fluding the ingen with to much gass

open bleed screw a small amount and pump clutch until only fluid comes out, ensure resevoir is kept topped up at all times

Usually it is always under the seat

I think you are way over your head here ... evidenced the red hot pipes. Could be time ... could be you didn't do the head gasket properly. Might be time for a professional to check out your ride.

it could do as one cylinder would be running too lean and the fuel tap may not be getting enough vac at low revs

you should be able ot get a good reading anywhere after the throttle plates, just be sure to plug the line that you remove so that you do not throw the idle off.

Hi, Yes you car start from there but d'ont exclude the possibility of a sudden dead battery.
You may also want to check some safety dvices (like side stand switch, neutral switch) because in some situatins they can cause that simptom.
good luck

Inside the tank the petcock is simply two openings at different levels. The reserve is the lower one and since it feeds from the bottom of the tank it's susceptible to blockage by rust and detritus.

To clear it you'll need to drain the tank (as far as you can) remove it from the bike and detach the petcock to clean it.

You need to reajust the clutch as the new discs are wearing in. As they wear down just a bit, the adjustment needs to be reset as they'll slip.