It doesn't matte, if you are hitting 8000 rpm on a regular basis you will be dead soon anyway, a used bike with that many miles can be transportation but not a race bike, get smart and live.
the spark is attributed to the coil. Use a multitester to test for continuity on the terminals. No response means no connection. Another way to test this without the use of a multitester is to switch the coil with a working coil. If it still doesnt have that spark but works with the other connection. then check the CDI.
You need to find out where the water is coming from and repair that. If it's an internal leak and entering the engine you will burn the engine up. Do not run the engine with ANY water in the oil.
dirty or loose grounds or a dirty or malfunctioning relay check your harness connectors as well get some electrical grade spray and pop open all connectors and give em a good dose undo all grounds and clean and re tighten them cheapest and easiest is sometimes the best Bought a bike dirt cheap cuz two mechanics couldn't figure out that the coil pack under the tank was crusty and from oxidation
Question edited heavily into written English.
Question moved to model category.
First get the battery load tested. Sometimes there isn't enough amps to turn the starter and supply enough power to the ignition as well. Check all 4 spark plugs for condition and gap.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki+ZZR250+won%27t+start
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I would check the spark plugs for fouling and change them out if needed. Other than that, I'd agree with Gregg and ask for more information. year of the bike, does it start and ride, is this an intermittent issue or all the time?
When you say no power through the ignition, do you mean the bike is completely dead with the ignition turned on? Nothing at all works, no lights, brake lights, indicators horn etc.?
If that is the case, then first check that the battery has a charge and the connections are all clean and tight.......and connected the right way round. My bike has a parking light position on the ignition switch and this allows the little parking lights to come on with the key removed. If yours has the same, see if that switches the light on. Do you have a permanent live outlet that you can test? If the battery has power and is connected properly and nothing lights up after doing these checks, then it is either a main fuse or ignition switch problem.
If you do have lights then at least the above is all ruled out and the problem now lies in the starting circuit. Is the kill switch set to run and if so is it working properly? By that, I mean even if it is in the starting position is it actually functioning properly and has clean contacts, all wires connected etc. The same goes for the start button.
At the solenoid there are 2 connections that you will have bolted onto when you changed it. Turn the ignition on and short across these 2 connections with a screwdriver momentarily and see if it spins the starter. If it does then the relay may be faulty. I will attach a youtube link that really explains everything in plain language and is by far the best tutorial I have come across for this type of problem.
Good luck with it all, Steve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYec1yFX3YI
by placing your hand over the air intake you are making the engine create a vacuum that is drawing fuel into the combustion chambers
this indicates a lack of fuel to the carby or blocked jets in the carby
look for fuel filters , blocked petrol cap , problem needle and seat or give the carby a good overhaul.
You didn't say what year model, but really not much has changed on the GPX over the years. Which makes this engine swap a snap. You can try ebay for a used engine or possibly someone parting out a bike. Also, a company called Factory Powerhouse, they sell bolt in (pit bike) engines. Here is the link, i hope this helps.
