20 Most Recent 2000 kawasaki KDX 125 Questions & Answers


Hi, Azzyoi87 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If the AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect the rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on the system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
KDXRIDER NET View topic Sputtering in 1st and 2nd
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2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 30, 2018


NEEDS FINE TUNING..SOUNDS LIKE..

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 22, 2015


TIMING AND FINE TUNING

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 22, 2015


IF IT HOLDS GAS AND YOU CAN SAFELY SECURE IT TO YOUR BIKE..WHOSE TO SAY YOU CANT..JUST MAKE SURE THE INSIDE OF THE TANK DOESN'T HAVE ANY RUST INSIDE...KEEP THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN AND THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN..PEACE

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 22, 2015


DEALER HAS THAT INFO..OR A HAYNES MANUEL..

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 22, 2015


try cleaning the spark plug whole and wire and make shere there is plenty of gass in it.

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 25, 2013


Look for faulty grounds, use multimeter to check for proper voltage to operate flasher circuit.

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 12, 2012


Air filter needs to be installed and clean. Check the seal at the carb,for tears or loose clamps.Also make sure fuel filter is cleaned out or replaced(dirt trash or water will stop fuel flow). If fuel pump is electric fuses may need replacement. If you still dont get better results you may need carbs cleaned.Not just add cleaner to gas,but removed and debris removed from jets float valve seat or filters inside.

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 12, 2012


Have you tried replacing the Spark Plug?

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 04, 2011


It may need rebuilt maby it does not have enough compression to turn over i would suggest getting a compression test done at a local bike shop. If thats the case it most likely needs rebuilt.

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Nov 19, 2010


unfortunately apart from removing the lights you wont turn it into a MX bike, new expantion chamber,porting and suspension mods are all quite expensive, just try and learn as much as you can as it is(minus lights)

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 05, 2010


what do you mean by this bud get back to me

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 11, 2010


Even tho u have got a spark dose not mean the spark plug is ok try changing the spark plug and i would recheck u carb to see if the flots in the bottom of the carb are still inplace correctly if u have any more problems please get back to me i will be more than happy to help i have worked on at least 100+ of these bikes

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 23, 2010


check to see if you have power to the coil get back to me

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 05, 2009


PROBALLY THE CDI OR COIL THATS CHASING A GHOST OR PROCESS OF ELIMINATION

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Jun 24, 2009


buddy its a specialist job to do this job you can strip it easy enough but putting back together takes a specailist

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 03, 2009


Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road.


Please rate this solution. Thanks!

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Apr 01, 2009


Hi Stephen,
Its simple , just remove the air filter clean it and check the spark plug and reset it to its right specs the gap.
Locate the air-mixture screw on the carb and warmup thebike's engine.
Turn the air-mixture screw in tothe last , but very slowly as to not damage it as its very sharp at the end of it, at this point increase the idling a little thn turn the air-mixture screw outwards 1 and a half turns and you will notice the difference in the engine , it may rev a little higher and be stable , here you will have to reduce the idling speed and again try to readjust the air-mixture screw outwards a little or inwards alittle depends how the engine responds.
Hope this will help!

Knight.(Yamaha Seca XJ750A 1981)

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 01, 2009


Hi,

Don't worry. The bike builds up a little oil at a time.
This is 2 stroke oil that is unburnt during combustion.
You might be running the bike a little rich.
A mix of 32/36 to one is good for outriding.

You should de-carbon the exhaust and replace the silencer packing. This will also give you some unexpected horse power.

Enjoy the ride !

Jon

2000 kawasaki... | Answered on Feb 20, 2009

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