Remove front wheel. Loosen fork tube clamps at top and bottom of triple clamps. Slide fork tubes out and remove. Access to seals is from top of tube. Remove cover and unscrew cap. Shop manual for specific bike is $24-$30. Will show detailed instructions.
Hi, Heartjunior and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Open-short-ground in the wiring between the alternator to the ignition module/CDI box to the ignition coil.
5. Faulty pins or sockets in the plug connectors.
6. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module/CDI box.
8. Faulty pulse coil.
9. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
10. Faulty ignition switch.
11. Faulty run/off switch
12. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
13. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 1997 kdx200 no spark kx125 Project Part one diagnosing no spark KAWASAKI KDX125 KDX250 2 STROKE FULL SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL 1990 1991... $15 OEM Parts for Kawasaki 1992 Kawasaki KX125 Owner Manual
I used to ride enduro in the 1980s on a KLX 250 :>)
Sounds like you have two issues.
Your spluttering and jolting sounds like a defective Reed Valve, but could also be carburetor float level problems. If it is runs fine when on the power band, then the carb is fine. For the cost, I would replace the reed valve.
Regarding the electrics, this could be a few things. Check all the earthing points, especially the one on the negative side of the battery. Take the wire off where it grounds to the frame, clean and apply Vaseline which stops corrosion and is electrically conductive. Check all the connectors that you can find. Pull them and make sure they are clean and sealed. Vaseline is good on these too. The specs below confirms it is rectified and regulated. Check the output voltage of the alternator with a test meter. Check the battery is as spec Battery 12v 3Ah and get it stress tested, or just replace it, if it older than 3 or 4 years.
You really need a good workshop manual. I had them for all my scooters and bikes.
Voltage Main Fuse 20A Ignition CDI electronic advance Charging System 3 phase AC, 27V@4000rpm. Rectified 14.5@4000rpm Spark Plugs NGK BR8ES Bulb-Headlight Battery 12v 3Ah Ignition Timing 10.5BTDC@1300rpm - 26.5BTDC@3000rpm
Engine Type Liquid Cooled 2 Stroke Reed Valve Straight Single Bore x Stroke 56 x 50.6 mm Compression Ratio Displacement 124mL Lubrication System Oil injection Starting kickstart Carburation Keihin/PE28 Carburation Main Jet 115 Carburation Idle Jet 48 Pilot Screw Setting 1.5 Red line RPM 10,500rpm
KICK HARDER TRY PULL STARTING IT..IN SECOND GEAR..DOES IT HAVE ENOUGH COMPRESSION TO START?IT SHOULD START PULLING IT...START OFF WITH NO THROTTLE THAN IF NOT STARTING CRACK THE THROTTLE SO LIGHTLY AND SHE SHOULD FIRE OFF WHILE IN GEAR BEING PULLED OF COURSE BE CARE FUL NOT TO RUN INTO. WHO EVERS PULLING YOU..USE A LONG TOW ROPE..IF YOUR NOT A SEASONDED RIDER AND KNOW YOUR BIKE VERY WELL I WOULD NOT ATTEMPT THE PULL START...IF NOT CHECK YOUR COMPRESSION AND TIMING..MAJOR VACUUM LEAK MAYBE AT BASE GASKET..IS ENGINE SUCKING TO MUCH AIR? GOOD LUCK..
DEPENDING ON WHICH SCREW WAS TURNED MAKES A DIFFERENCE..BUT RULE OF THUMB IS ALL THE WAY IN NOT TO TIGHT JUST FINGER TIGHT..YOU SEE THOSE NEEDLES HAVE A VERY FINE POINT ON THE END AND IF THEY GET TIGHTENED TO HARD THE POINT GET FLATTENED OUT AND DESTROYED..SO IN FINGER TIGHT AND OUT 1 COMPLETE ROTATION AND A 1/4 TO 3/4 OUT.BOTH SET SCREWS THIS SHOULD GET THE ENGINE RUNNING GOOD ENOUGH TO TUNE..PS..IF YOUR ENGINE DOSE NT AT LEAST ACT LIKE IT WANTS TO START ONLY TRY THREE OR FOUR TIMES IF NOT RUNNING ADJUST AGAIN BUT LITTLE INCREMENTS AT A TIME..NO THROTTLE NO CHOKE..DONT WANT TO FLOOD IT BEFORE IT STARTS..WHEN FLOODED IT WILL NOT START AT ALL..THE BEST WAY TO TUNE A CARB IS WITH A FLOW METER..
PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE THE THROTTLE POSITION IS AT WHEN THIS OCCURS .IF IT IN THE SAME POSITION EVERY TIME..YOU NEED A CARB SERVICE..IF ITS SP ERRATIC OCCURRENCE TRY USING A HIGHER OCTANE FUEL.OR CHECKING YOUR PLUG GAP.AIR FILTER CLEAN..ANY VACUUM LEAKS..ITS HARD TO ANSWER WITHOUT SEEING AND HEARING IT.. PROBABLY JUST NEEDS A TUNE UP..
Black dry deposits are indicitive of a very rich mixture. On your two stroke, rich is a asset but you can go too rich. It sounds like for some reason you're getting too much fuel.
I think I ran into something like this before on a Kawasaki 80. Check the screws that holds the choke plate inside the carb. They will come loose and allow the choke to close on you while riding the bike. If the screw comes out, it will go into the engine and cause serious damage. If the screws are loose, them out one at a time and put a drop of Loctite 271 (red) on them and reinstall them.
Check the float and the needle and seat to make sure that you don't have any trash in the needle and seat. Also check your tank vent. If the tank builds up vacuum, you could be running out of fuel. Sounds funny that you can be running rich but run out of fuel. The problem is that you run out of fuel so quickly that the carbon from the rich mixture doesn't have time to burn off.
If the engine is frozen squirt some Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug hole and let it sit foe a day or so, then try to turn the engine over (with out the plugs) Hopfully it gets to spinning freely. Put the plugs back in an see if the thing will light up. Hopefully the gas in the carb had satbiliser in it.
Check out this web site, they can decode any vin number, i ran my bikes through there, no problem , came right up. All vin numbers carry the same code, the 10th digit is the year, it might be in code, might not. Check it out, hope this helps.