20 Most Recent 2003 kawasaki KX 125 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Remove the right side cover and check the operation of the side case clutch lever by looking at it from the inside. If it is operating freely and the cam on the arm that pushes the clutch release pin is not worn out, the problem would be the fiber friction clutch plates. Did someone use synthetic oil in the gear box? Oil with "Special" lubricants? These can shrink the cork on the plates and cause the clutch to slip. Some synthetics can swell the cork and cause the clutch to grab and not disengage. If swelling or shrinkage of the plates has happened then the repair is to install new plates. Potentially, grooves may be worn in the inner and/or outer clutch hubs. This would prevent proper operation of the clutch. The repair there is new clutch inner hub (if worn), or clutch outer hub as needed. A worn needle bearing could also be the cause if the clutch will not disengage. Please post a reply if any more info is needed. An exploded view of your clutch can be seen at the website below. Please take a moment and rate my answer.
www.babbittsonline.com

to seat the screw it goes all the way in but only 2.5 turns out

adjust more if needed

good luck.

If the bike hasn't been ridden for a while, select top gear, (engine off) and with the clutch pulled in rock the bike back and forth. That may free the clutch.

Clean the carb. Some trash is partially blocking the main jet.

Sounds like there could be a problem with the main jet not delivering sufficient fuel for normal running. Clean out the carb and check the jets and passages for obstructions and dirt.

The engine will require running in as the bore must have been scorred as well and should have been scoured with wire wool to allow the rings to bed in.
Is the tapping coming from what you have replaced?
Find a long screwdriver and put the tip on the top of the engine and the handle up against your ear and listen. Locate the source of the knocking/tapping and then you will know the cause and area.
Hope that helps.

sounds like the timing is off or you have cracked rings on the piston.

Hi,

I can try and assist you, so email me at mr.den @fnb.co.za and I will attempt to talk you through it.
Have you disassembled the clutch ?
There are also very good pics on avrious websites I cna point you to that show a breakdown of the parts in order.

Geoff

More than likely it is something very simple. Have you cleaned the air filter lately??

check Ebay or similar for non standard ones, usually about half the price

first drain the carby, then set your air mixture screw 2 turns out, from the fully turned in position. The starting proceedure is as follows, when the engine is COLD, turn on fuel, pull on the choke fully, and kick the engine over. DO NOT use any throttle, when the engine is cold, and the choke is on. Remember Choke on, NO throttle.
When warm, no choke, and a little throttle when kicking.

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/index.php

oil Capacity kx125 - 652 + or - 4ml (22.04 + or - 0.14 US oz.)

You will have to take it to a suspension shop. You need special tools to disassemble and recharge mono shocks. I'm surprised your friend was able to get any oil out of it though, normally this requires disassembly. You might have a problem with the shock. Either way, take it to a suspension shop. They usually don't charge much for recharging them.

from any reputable motorcycle shop, there are quiet a few aftermarket brands avalable to suit and even kawasaki genuine shockies available

700cc or 0.7 litres of oil

run 14 psi on hard pack and in dirt with a lot of traction. I run 12 when its a little bit slippery, and 9-10 when it is greasy.

i know it says 30 psi on there tyre but thats to much

John

Take the top off the master cylinder and slacken the bleed nipples on the slaves.
The frot should self drain and whilst that is happening, press up and down on the rear brake whilst topping up the level. When enough has gone through, tightnen the rear slave bleed nipple finger tight so as to allow fluid through under pressure and keep going until all air has gone and tighten the nipple. Top up the master cylinder and put the cover back on.
Top up the front master and tighten the slave nipple enough to let, under pressure, the fluid to flow. Ensure the air has been expelled and tighten the nipple. Top up the master cylinder and replace the cover.

dont think its a fluid issue. more like a clutch adjustment either at lever or in mid section of cable if that doesnt fix you might have to replace either clutch cable or clutch disks

sounds like the inner seal of water pump is bad and should be replaced. really not that hard to fix

the fuel to oil ratio is 32. to 1