Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 03 636 bogs at 5000rpm KawiForums Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-6r-forum/29733-07-zx6r-high-rpm-bogging-issue.html Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Kawasaki ZX6R 636 Idle Problem FIXED 2003 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R Idle and Stalling issue Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki
The knuckle needs to be in the correct position on the splines. Mark it, so you will know where it is now, remove and rotate one spline, then test. If you still have trouble, rotate it the opposite way. You should also have some linkage adjustment to position the selector properly--The gears should engage, it's possible the shift forks are the problem. Hope this helps.
Sounds like it's time for a valve adjustment. clearances are:
exhaust .22 - .31
intake .11 - .19
Checking clearance should be very simple but adjusting requires cam and lifter removal and different size shims underneath.
HI MOST OF THESE ZX636 HAVE A LOCK ON THE REAR LEFT SUBRAME NEAR THE REAR FOOTREST UNDERNEATH FOR THE REAR SEAT, AND THE FRONT SEAT IS HELD IN PLACE BY 2 ALUN BOLTS TURN UP THE REAR CORNERS ON THE SEAT, TO FIND THEM, SOME HAVE A BRACKET LOCATED UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT
This can be done by looking through the frame at the top of the engine, however the best way will be to remove the seat, tank and airbox, the plugs can then be closely observed, do 1plug at a time, this way you wont mixup the leads, do 1 plug replace the cap, then do the next 1
you'll need to check for the speedometer cable (of its analog.) the cable inside it might be broken. Else, i suppose when your chain snapped, it hit the wires connected to the speedometer. might as well check it out. Hope this helps,
Hi! You may just have fuel flooding. Please pull out the plugs and check if its wet. If it is, please replace plugs. If it still stutters, please replace the plug wires as well for better fuel burning. HOpe this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
With the 05 I would check the thermostat. With the 03 that is normal, my 02 cuts on and off around the same range. I put a switch in so I could turn my fan on when ever I wanted. I run mine once I get to 175...
Unfortunately Kawasaki doesn’t sell engine assemblies , you will have to find someone to rebuild what you have or if you have any motorcycle junk yards around by you and also check eBay, I have seen lots of engines on there in the past
First, test your battery and make sure it is at full power and maintaining its charge. If it is not, replace the battery with a new one. Next, I would remove the fuel tank and completely drain it. Also drain the carbs while the tank is off. Right below the airbox you will find four carburetors. On each one, there is a little collar and inside the collar is a small screw. Loosen that a bit, and fuel will start dripping out of the nipple right beside it. Use a bucket to catch the fuel. Do this on all four carbs. Buy some carb cleaner and spray it in all four carbs to clean them out. You should also replace the fuel filter. Put the gas tank back on and refill it with fresh gas and ride. You will regain full power now that your battery, fuel filter, and carbs are replaced and clean