20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator Questions & Answers

Please elaborate. What exactly do you need to know?

Hi,

To my knowledge, there are no onboard electrical/electronic components capable of shorting and blowing the fuse with out blowing any of the secondary fuse. The main fuse could possibly blow due to a short in the wiring or an exposed/frayed wire touching the body. The three most likely areas would be:

• wire harness leading to the regulator;
• wire harness leading to the fusebox; and/or
• wire harness leading to the ignition switch.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

You have probably bled the brakes using the bleeder bolt at the bottom on the caliper right? But there is also a banjo bolt at the top that comes right out of the master cylinder, try loosening that up a little (while holding the brake lever down of course), see if some more air escapes from there, then do that quite a few more times, holding the lever in , loosening that bolt up a little and eventually it should only squirt out a little brake fluid and you won't hear any hissing noise or bubbles. See if that works for you.

I think it would be a good idea to service the fuel system. ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working with gasoline related items. Remove the petcock, (gas valve) and clean the filter screen.

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road. Get back to me if it doesn't.

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A red wire or red tape near the end of the wire indicates it to be the positive ( + ) terminal. The black wire is the ground wire, negative ( - ) terminal. The battery terminals will have a plus + and a minus - symbol on the top or the side of the battery casing. Additionally, the black wire will be bolted to the frame about 12 inches from the battery.

may have damaged a fuse , cable, or relay

I thought this model was hydralic lifters? Call local shop. Most solid lifters need adjustment 10,000 and so on

remove the gear change linkage from the gearbox and rotate it to where the pedal should be,if you cant do this as some bikes have a keyed shaft(will only go on in one place)adjust the tie rod adjusters to bring the pedal back to where it should be

It's sounds like the brakes, Someone might have used the front brake really hard. try spraying the front caliper with a water hose to wash the brake dust from between the pads and the rotor. If that don't work pull the caliper off and see if the pads are glazed over. If they are you can take some fine sand paper and rough them up a little bit.

Hi,

On some Kawasaki models, there is a circuit board underneath the fuse holder where some of the solder would require re-soldering. There would also be small relays for ignition interlock (neutral, sidestand, clutch and others) that would require contact cleaning. These interlocks provide the conditional switching of the IGN B+12 to the CDI. If you have confirmed that all the wires to the battery, the starting solenoid are connected, then this might be worth the effort of looking into.

Alternately, if when the battery was removed, the starting solenoid connector was also removed, it is likely that the big terminals of the starting solenoid were wired wrong. Please confirm that the terminal marked "S" goes to the starting motor and the terminal marked "B" goes to the battery's B + terminal.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

sounds like faulty spark plug

sounds like a short in the light system

it could be u have a batt charging problem , so check out for more than 13 volts on batt leads with/out lights. U should also disconnected the batt leads and make sure they r clean and tightly fastened . Check out for water level if u dont have dry batt .

the order is 1.3.4.2 the left hand coil goes to the two outer cylinders which are 1&4 and the right hand coil does the middle Cyls. Best regards Jim.

Try this site as I am not sure on the models listed.

http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-ar125_model12112/

The tube is for overflow. The float is stuck open ( or partly open ) and the overflow prevents all the extra gas from running into the engine. The carb needs to be cleaned.

you might be able to, but, there should be a number on the ignition barrel it might be on a sticker on the side or underneath.