20 Most Recent 2005 kawasaki KLX 250 Questions & Answers

44 ft. lbs .. use red loctite, and a factory folding lock washer

34ft. lbs

Remove the filter or filter connection to the back side of the carb and spray it with starter fluid. If it starts when you do that each time, the carbs still have a problem and need to be cleaned out again or adjusted correctly.

carbs need to be cleaned

could be cdi..or windings in flywheel...try & browow a cdi to check

If it has air caps on the top of the forks, you can put a little air in them. If not, the other thing you can do is add a bit more oil to each fork leg.

Question edited for full make and model. Question moved from Garden category. Yes, that is something to do with the electrics, probably ignition system somewhere. Also check plug condition and especially to see if the spark gap is too wide. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Kawasaki+Sherpa+starts+and+dies ..

1. Make sure fuel is freely flowing from gas tank. 2, Take carb to a professional and have him clean and set it - especially the float level.

Yes

owww,,, was the bike running when the chain broke?? There is usually some valve to piston contact when this happens - BENT valves will NOT SEAT or SEAL!! Time to disassemble the top end!! Especially if you heard noises coming from the engine when it broke? You need to set the piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) and like the cam up with the marks on the head and cam chain gear,---- Make sure the timing marks on the flywheel are lining up..if not rotate the engine another 360 degrees until they do before starting this..You MUST CHECK THE COMPRESSION before attempting to start this engine.

If I am not mistaken,,, the KLX is a 4 stroke motor and the KX is a two stroke motor....>>? So, NO!!!!!!

Can I put electric start on a KXF 250 2006

remove choke cable and lubricate with machine oil

By "flicking" sounds, do you mean a series of rapid "clicks"? Usually a series of rapid clicks when trying to start is an indication of low battery voltage, or a bad electrical connection, usually a ground. Get an automotive jumper cable (use only ONE of the leads, let's say the BLACK one), hook one end to the battery NEGATIVE terminal, and the other end to a bolt head that mounts the starter motor to the engine case, and see if that helps. If so, it is a ground issue. An old time Harley trick is to attach a SECOND ground cable to the battery negative terminal, and the other end, remove one starter mounting bolt, slip the bolt through the cable "eye", and reinstall the bolt. The problem in this case is that most bike engines are made out of aluminum. While aluminum WILL conduct electrical current, it's NOT the best conductor in the world. This is why copper jumper cables are much better than aluminum ones, and why they found out (the hard way) that aluminum wiring in a house is no good! NOW, if when you try to start and you get a SINGLE click, this usually means either a bad starter relay, or bad starter solenoid.

We used to buy premix from the dealer, although now I just use a 50/50 mix of Halfords 500ML coolant and water.

check for a bad radiator cap. if it's bad it won't hold pressure enough to let the system work

with the engine cold take the cap off of the radiator and lean the bike over to one side and listen for gurggling sounds. there could be air bubbles trapped in system. with the cap off start the bike and see if the coolant is circulating. it's probably a bad radiator cap. It's not holding pressure when hot to let the system work right. i think it has a 1.1 cap, maybe get a 1.6 cap and see if it helps

take cam cover off , take ignition cover off and find tdc with a rod in the plug hole and you can feel it at top , measure the up down motion and half it , the tdc should show up on flywheel , ignition happens b4 tdc at a set degree , temp set a few deg b4 and adjust slowly till engine runs smooth ! dont know exact timing but this will help get started !P....

.028 -.030 inches or 0.7-0.8 mm