20 Most Recent 1991 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder Questions & Answers


Hi, Freddie, as far as I know, Kuryakyn only makes Hyperchargers for Harley Davidson. You may want to contact Kuryakyn and ask them if they have a generic model that can be modified to fit your bike.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Jun 27, 2019


Hi, Jeff for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on May 24, 2019


Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?t=7254
https://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/65866-Main-fuse-keeps-blowing
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 11, 2019


Hi, Highstandard for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?t=4208
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fmkgO97ChI
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Caseys_06 it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Suzuki+VS+1400+Intruder+air+filter+location&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwij-d330vjgAhVQtlkKHaivDGoQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?t=4007
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, David and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?t=4373
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/96-suzuki/85194-backfiring-lot.html
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Alovejoy77 for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Anonymous you need to perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging and it must be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test you may have cursory readings of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries have this issue more so than lead-acid types.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. The meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test the voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins, multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPM. If not replace the rotor.
12. Check for excessive wattage load from the headlight
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?t=4124&start=20
https://www.motorcycleforums.net/forum/paddock/8933-battery-life-intruder-1400-other.html
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Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
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Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual

1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+Suzuki+VS+1400+Intruder+fuel+filter+location&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi6sr_l-fbgAhWno1kKHSwUDiwQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Anonymous you have a bad battery or faulty charging system, now it is time to put on your Battery Priest Robe and prepare yourself for the Ceremonial "LOAD TEST" but before you begin, maintenance type lead-acid batteries must be topped off with distilled Holy Water and all batteries must offer their terminals to the battery charging altar to receive the Sacred Infusion of Holy Ions until they have reached a 100% full charge of 12.5 volts or better. No matter how new the battery is, do not be lured into the false sense of "it's OK it has 12.5 volts" and not doing the test below, it could have little or zero "AMPERAGE" causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, AGM maintenance free batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid types.
Below is a quick and easy test to see if your battery is in good condition or needs Last Rites and must be replaced.
1. Make sure the bike is in "NEUTRAL"
2. Disconnect the spark plug cables.
3. Adjust voltmeter to DC volts 20-volt range
4. Place the voltmeter leads to the battery terminals.
5. Turn the run/off switch to run.
6. Turn the ignition switch on and press the starter button.
7. Watch the voltmeter as your engine turns over for 10 seconds.
8. If the voltage drops below 9.6 volts, the battery is faulty and must be replaced I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery they typically have more amperage for cranking.
9. Reconnect the spark plug cables if your battery is good and the bike starts ok, place the voltmeter leads on the battery and rev the engine to a steady 2500 RPM the voltmeter should read 14.5 volts DC anything in the 13's or less you have a charging issue that needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
3. Friction discs or steel discs are worn or warped past specs.
4. Incorrect oil type.
5. Weaken clutch springs.
6. New wet clutch plates were not pre-soaked for 24 hours.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/377551/Clutch+is+slipping+...+how+do+you+repair+or+adjust
http://intruders-alert.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=33
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fmkgO97ChI
Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
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Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual

1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 10, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
17. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
18. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
19. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
20. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
21. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
22. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
23. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
24. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
25. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.justanswer.com/motorcycle/8i4f1-99-suzuki-intruder-1400-motorcycle-won-t-start-lights.html
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 06, 2019


Hi, Darren for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Feb 26, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Feb 22, 2019


Try a jumper cable from a car. If that works, you probably have a bad battery. They can fail suddenly like that.

If a jump doesn't work, then you're probably looking for a bad ignition switch.

1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Mar 01, 2018


Hi, Jimmy and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Choke valve not seated or leaking.
9. Multi carburetors out of sync and need to be balanced.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Dec 12, 2017


Hi, Yunni for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Nov 18, 2017


Hi, Chris for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on Nov 02, 2016


Hi, Aksel I do not believe they are adjustable because the brakes are hydraulic for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1991 Suzuki VS... | Answered on May 14, 2016

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