20 Most Recent 1991 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Easy job, thing to remember is not to let the fluid level to become to low, as air will enter the system, then things become more difficult, use a length of tube correct diamiter to fit tightly over the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder, left hand side engine, protect the paintwork by placing a cloth around the nipple, place tube in container containing a small amount of fluid, this will omit air entering the system while the nipple is open, now undo the cap on the master cylinder, set the lever at number1 to give full movment of the cylinder, at this time it makes sense to replace all the fluid in this system, rember do not allow the fluid to run out completly,open the nipple, gently pull in the lever the fluid will be pumped out with this action, hold the lever in and dont let go until you have closed off the nipple, repeat this action untill all the fluid has been changed, thus omiting any air from the system your. System has now been bled.Pull lever in nipple open, close nipple release lever, repeat over and over, untill finished tighten nipple clean away any spilled fluid rite away, hope this helps. Paul

Check battery for a full charge. Put charger on, bring to a full charge, then put a load tester on the battery and check for weak battery, dead cell or cells.

I race a 250 four stroke, and with the engine pushing out some high compression, and running race fuel, and muddy conditions, that make it run hot...I empty the system, fluch it out with distilled water, and refill with "engine ice coolant." Seems to run cooler.

You probably need to bleed the sytem. Might as well start with fresh fluid.
Get a syringe without the needle, draw the old fluid from reservoir.....then refill with new fluid from a new container (brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air). Sit the diaphram back on the reservoir so that as you pump lever...fluid doesn't squirt over the side...brake fluid will destroy paint and fairing plastic if not cleaned immediately with warm sudsy water...always have a pail handy when handling brake fluid.
Find the bleeder bolt on your clutch slave.....on Yamaha its under a rubber flap on left side...Suzuki might be different). Attach a hose to bleeder and route to a waste container.Pump the lever a few times and while holding lever partially in...crack bleeder and squeeze lever to force the old fluid out....close bleeder, release lever....repeat the bleeding until new clear bubble free fluid is exiting. Monitor the reservoir level as you push out the old fluid and replenish as needed...if you run it empty...you will be fighting to rid the air out for some time.
You want the reservoir level to be about 60% full so it can expand with engine heat, before reinstalling the lid when done.

Heres what we do.
Go to your local hardware/construction superstore and go to building materials.
Find a person that works there and ask them to tell you where the materials to do stucco are.

Stucco workers put up a black tar paper, and then nail up a mesh looking aluminum, then put the cement on the mesh, and the mesh holds it to the wall.

I use that mesh, because its made of aluminum, and you can polish it.
I just cut and bend it in place then hot glue it to inside of the plastics or fairings.
It looks really cool and i think you would like it.

If that doesn't suit you then i would suggest going to a steel distributor, and check out what they have to offer. You would be amazed at what they carry, and the stuff you can do with it.

Hope this helps you.

You can look up parts and OEM part numbers at babbitsonline.com.

Hello. Your clutch cable is corroded and frozen up. Replace that cable and you will be good to go. Joe

What model Bike have you got?
It sounds to me like as the engine warms up, there is an adjustment that is going out of tollerance.
Go through the manual and set up the clutch tension and adjustment as described.
Haynes supply a good manual for most bikes, if you haven't got a workshop manual, and may be worth a look on their web site and they are not too expensive either.

Try holding the clutch lever down, transmission in first gear, and rock the bike back and forth. If this doesn't work, you may have to pull the clutch plates apart through dis-assembly. This is a fairly common problem with performance-grade clutches. Hope this helps!

No. The break light is on a different currcit, your engine should have a fuse, on the bigger bike, on the smaller bike there is only one or two fuses, If the break light has failed change the bulb, if its not the bulb, check you have power to it from the live+ wire if you have check the switch, to check the switch disconnect the the two wirers at the plug and put a piece of wirer to link the two wirers together, this should put the light on, if that works you will need to get a new switch, for the engine check the spark plug is sparking, if it is check you have petrol in the tank and its turned on if you have a on and off tap, depending on the bike you may have a fuse for ign. check that, check the on and off switch for the engine if you have one, if you have one.

try adjusting the screw on the clutch handle.

The screws holding the backing plate for the gear selector fork may be loose, allowing a slight shift in alignment of return gear. There is a spring under some pressure holding everything in place, this maybe coming out of its location as well. It will require the removal of the sprocket cover and gear selector cover to access these retaining screws.
Depending on the type/model of the bike, it is a relatively simple motorcycle toolkit fix.
Would need to know specific bike for optimum advice, cheers.

To get exact repair manual for your suzuki intruder .click the link below:-- http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/8975704-suzuki-vs1400-1987-2003-intruder-repair-manual- --------- Also for no power to the ignition switch.start checking the voltage from ignition switch itself.It can be faulty ignition switch or cracked /loose wire causing no power. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

every floor board kit is different, they come with full instructions on installation, but on most the foot peg only is removed.

I suspect that the kickstand wire is grounding somewhere (on the case, maybe??) (or the output shaft is frozen solid after two years but that is unlikely - if not impossible)

You normally will not need to adjust your clutch if hydraulic.The fact you are asking suggests that you are having a clutch issue and you can get back to me with symtoms if ness.

So, it sounds like the contacts in the control relay are not passing current -- is this the conclusion you have reached?

Can you trace the hot wire on the coil side of the control relay back to anything -- this should eventually be coming (directly or indirectly) from the ignition switch.

Charlie

First , there is no cable to adjust or check. Suzuki uses a hydraulic cluth release on this model. There is a tiny hole in the resevoir on the handlebar,check the condition of the brake fluid in your resevoir.If it has not been changed in a long time,2 YEARS or more,Change it and clean the muck from the bottom .Make sure the holes are clear.Flush the system with clean brake fluid down to the slave cylinder located at the lower left side of engine. What is most likely happening is every time you pull the clutch lever the slave is moving out,with the hole in the master clogged the slave cannot return, this is leaving the clutch disengaged at all times.I would suggest checking this out before pulling clutches out ,or the engine out to check shift forks. Best of luck to ya, Gixrfixr.

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.