Hi, Engsapper you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 92 won idle unless choked Suzuki GSX Motorcycle Forums Gixxer com Idle ajustment Suzuki Katana GSX600F 1990 Model Year Suzuki 85 GSX R750 Service Repair Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals
The clutch switch circuit is a yellow wire with a green stripe. The handlebar switch has 2 male bullet type connectors that will pulg into female connectors of the same color. One will be on the harness from the r/h handle switch and I believe the other is on the main harness, r/h side of bike under fuel tank. It dosent matter which goes to which just mate male to female.
if you follow the positive cable from the battery it will lead you to the starter solenoid. it's jast a little square that also holds the main fuse. you can check if it's bad just by bridging the to posts together with a set of needle nose pliers. if pushing the start button just makes it click when you bridge it it should activate the starter. if the starter works when you bridge it, you know the solenoid is bad. if your stater still clicks when you bridge it, make sure your battery is at full charge. if your battery is at full charge and it still clicks, your starter is bad.
Well that cant be good.
Do you notice any puddles or smell of fuel when the bike is sitting?
Is it on just one leg of your jeans or both?
Do you have the stock air filter installed?
I would look for leaks in the seam of the tank or leaks in the fuel pipes that run between the carbs or a leak in the petcock/ fuel line. Its gotta be leaking somewhere, or its shooting fuel out the throat of the carb when its running which could indicate valve problems.
Take the fairings off so you can see and let the bike sit and run at idle. With a battery powered flashlight check the bike over closely until you find the leak. Wipe everything off dry and check again so you are sure where it is coming from. Then ( with the air box removed) rev the motor while looking with the flashlight and see if ti shoots fuel out one of the carb throats. Dry everything off and double check again.
If your starter will not stop turning over then your starter solenoid contact bar is stuck in the closed position. It should only close when you hit the starter button. With the solenoid out of the bike check the solenoid battery terminals for continuity. If there is continuity across the large terminals, replace the starter solenoid
The banging sound in the engine is Pre-ignition aka engine knock and detonation. This is BIG TIME BAD for the motor. It can destroy a crankshaft and piston in no time. And once it punches a hole in the top of the piston then little metal filings run through the entire lubrication system screwing up bearings and the like.
A lot is involved so the best thing is for you to download a service manual and a parts fiche. The manual can give you all the info available on the oil cooling and lubrication system. The parts fiche is a handy aid in parts identification and unit construction. Free manuals can be downloaded at the site below. Yours is 42nd from the bottom of the Suzuki list. The two files are next to each other.
Just make the bike level and check it. It's actually better to check it after the engine has been off for ten minutes or so. This ensures that the oil has had time to drain back into the pan and is not circulating elsewhere in the system. That will help with obtaining an accurate reading
When too much fuel is being supplied to the carburetors the engine is flooded. When you remove the spark plugs it allows the fuel to dissipate enough to allow the engine to run again. Drilling out the jets is not an accurate/preferred method for changing the jet size. Most of the time the jets end up being drilled too big. You can save money by just buying main jets. A jet kit usually will come with the slide needles made with a different taper from the stock needles. You may need to break down and buy a jet kit or a least replace the main jets with accurately sized main jets (not drilled out jets). In other words your main jets are just too big.