Hi, Ryryboi33 I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. How to diagnose problem by the noises your bike makes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-zP0TQhUv0 Suzuki RF 900 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
Hi, Anonymous if you're having trouble with your hydraulic clutch releasing-that is, when you try to shift with the clutch all the way in, it feels like the bike still "wants" to be in gear-there's a good chance you may have air in the system. Air trapped within the system defeats the mechanical advantage of hydraulic pressure-the air can be compressed much more than the fluid, so when you pull in the lever, the clutch itself is not fully disengaging.
That's the bad news. The good news is that this is a problem that may often be fixed simply by adding fluid and bleeding the system, and you're about to learn how to do just that.
1. Check the level of the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Your owner's manual will show you how and what DOT type fluid to use. Add as much fluid as necessary to reach the "full" level. Throughout the process, either you or your assistant must remember to check the fluid level regularly during this process. If the reservoir reaches empty, the system will begin taking more air in, adding to the problem you're already trying to solve.
2. While the bleeder screw is still tight at the clutch slave cylinder, place a pan underneath the bleeder screw fitting. Have your assistant pump the clutch lever gently several times, and then depress the lever all the way to the handlebar grip and hold it (it is very important to know that releasing the lever early could result in air being sucked into the system via the bleeder valve).
3. With a box wrench, slowly loosen the bleeder screw about one-half turn. A mixture of fluid and air should come out of the valve. As the flow from the screw fitting slows, re-tighten the bleeder screw until it is snug and completely closed, but easily loosened again. At this point, your assistant can allow the clutch lever to return to the extended position. Be sure your assistant does not allow the lever to return before you have re-tightened the screw, as doing so can result in more air being drawn into the system.
Repeat steps 1 to 3 several times, until no air, only fluid, comes out of the valve (it should not sputter or hiss at all). At this point, give the bleeder screw an extra quarter-turn to ensure it won't come loose. You don't want to over-tighten and strip either the screw or the fitting, but if the bleeder screw comes loose, you will quickly lose hydraulic fluid while riding.
Again, make sure the reservoir contains enough fluid after each round of bleeding, and again fill it to the "full" level when the process is complete.
After you're done, test the clutch out in a driveway or parking lot before taking it to the road. If you have the time after you've tested the clutch leave it parked for an hour or so with a piece of cardboard underneath the bleeder valve; this way, you can see if anything is leaking. A couple of drops is most likely nothing to worry about, as there will be residue remaining from the bleeding process, but if you find any puddles whatsoever, make sure to check that you've completely re-tightened the bleed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/2yvi2x/rf900_flakey_clutch_engagement_probably_hydraulic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tWVPdKcEDU Suzuki RF 900 Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
Follow the coil wires, (the ones attached to the spark plugs), to the coils. One side of each coil should have a wire that goes to ground, possibly right to the bolt holding the coils to the frame. Make sure those wires are hooked up and grounded. There will be other wires going to the coils that are not grounded, do not ground those.