Top 20 1994 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder Questions & Answers

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Replace the starter relay 1994 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

Need more info
6/2/2019 3:35:19 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 496 views • 1 helpful votes
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What years of parts will work for a 1994 suzuki intruder vs1400

PROGRESSIVE SHOCKS MAKE THE SHOCKS FOR YOUR BIKE
2/21/2015 5:14:10 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 207 views • 0 helpful votes
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1994 Intruder 1400VS Iam getting delayed acceleration -almost a winding up when engaging throttle

possibly clutch slip , does it rev up higher but theres a delay in the bike speed matching the revs ?
7/25/2014 1:48:48 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 236 views • 0 helpful votes
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Suzuki intruder 1400 starts in neutral but cuts out when you put it in gear

switch on the side stand
7/2/2014 7:10:16 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 274 views • 0 helpful votes
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Suzuki intruder vs1400 starts in neutral but cuts out when put in gear

Side stand switch is bad.
7/2/2014 7:12:50 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 246 views • 0 helpful votes
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Spark plug gap 1994 suzuki 1400

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5/12/2014 4:56:36 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 693 views • 0 helpful votes
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Engine shuts off when throttle applied

Is the kickstand still down? Have you checked the safety switch on the side stand?
3/22/2014 11:09:43 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 267 views • 0 helpful votes
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Ive got an 88 intruder 1400 it is only firing on the rear cylinder. new and properly charged battery, new front coil, new plugs properly gaped. it will start easy and idle even run ok. ive removed and

Check this out,,,, Pull the plug , ark plug on frame,turn over motor and check for spark, No spark change coil....My 800 runs great on one cycl.
1/29/2013 7:42:45 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 1,095 views • 0 helpful votes
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I turn the key on and only the lights turns on but not the engine

Kill switch in run? In Neutral? Side Stand up? Check start solenoid next. Test battery for voltage.
3/21/2013 9:18:19 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 99 views • 0 helpful votes
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Clutch piston

very easy to replace...usually not the piston though, just the seal which is much cheaper...Here is a free manual to tell you how...http://manualedereparatie.info/manuale/Suzuki/Suzuki_VS_1400_Intruder_www.manualedereparatie.info.zip
11/19/2012 1:01:52 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 197 views • 0 helpful votes
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Battery wont charge

if ur battery wont charge then its broken of out of charge or put it the wrong way or buy another 1!
2/5/2012 11:16:17 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 136 views • 0 helpful votes
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I have a 96 Suzuki

bike is 15yrs-ajust clutch 1st-if no relief then a bottom end will have to be done and u need a clymer manual and special tools--the book covers complete maintenance
5/5/2011 5:27:02 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 1,161 views • 0 helpful votes
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Have hyd.clutch need to drain and replace fluid?

If you have steel lines, you should replace the fluid since it can absorb water over time and rust the lines from the inside, causing a leak. If there is a bleeder for the clutch, the easiest way to change the fluid is with a vacuum pump (mighty mite) connected to the bleeder. Ensure the resivoir stays full and use the vacuum pump on the open bleeder until you see the new fluid coming through then close the bleeder. If there is no bleeder you'll need a helper. Have someone hold the clutch lever down while you loosen the fitting that attaches the line to the slave cylinder and allow the fluid to escape. tighten the fitting and then let the lever back up and squeeze down again repeat the loosening and squeezing peocedure until you see the fresh fluid emerging. (Same procedure as bleeding the brakes except you use the fitting instead of a bleeder screw).
6/29/2011 7:55:47 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 191 views • 2 helpful votes
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What type oil do you use in the rear wheel?

If you are talking about the final drive oil you can use any 80/90 Hypoid gear oil. If you choose a synthetic Hypoid gear oil your rear end will run cooler. One quart of oil is enough for 4 or 5 rear end oil changes. Because the rear ends are so expensive ($1000), I change my rear end oil every other oil change.
2/19/2011 5:02:01 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 683 views • 1 helpful votes
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NEED TO PUT WATER IN RADIATOR SUZUKI INTRUDER 1400 '96

Your suzuki is air cooled with an oil cooler,it doesn't have a radiator...
5/26/2010 3:24:47 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 1,588 views • 7 helpful votes
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My choke adjustor broke and I believe my choke is

The carbs will need thoroughly cleaned. See the information below for cleaning intel. The elements of internal combustion engines are: correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, adequate cylinder compression.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.
Carb Cleaning :--- Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, orings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean the Venturi's (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and oring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or spray cleaners, if necessary. Replace other type floats if cleaning is necessary. Clean the float axle or pin.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
8/16/2010 8:53:15 PM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 155 views • 0 helpful votes
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On the 1400 intruder the engine dies on idling

sounds like you have a charging system problem. your main computer requires a certain amount of voltage to keep the bike running. once you turn on the lights, that takes away some of the voltage going to the computer. either you battery is going bad, replace if old, or your charging system is not working properly. if i recall corretly the computer requires a minimum of 10.5 volts to run the bike.
5/12/2010 11:23:31 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 831 views • 5 helpful votes
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1994 suzuki intruder has weak fire

hello, check stator or ign coil, usually the first to check, pickup or source coil could be going bad.. in stator..
3/31/2010 2:04:48 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 417 views • 0 helpful votes
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Where si the rectifier located on a 1994 Suzuki

Most bikes is under the seat.
3/5/2010 2:09:55 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 802 views • 0 helpful votes
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1994 suzuki 1400 inturder fires on one side

The same problem with my intruder. Make sure the battery is good. I mean really good. Good amps and voltage. I replaced mine and haven't had a problem since. Also make sure that the plug gap is right on both plugs. Replace and gap the plugs if need be. Check to make sure that the plug wires at the plugs are inserted as they should be . A lot of times when you pull the plug wires from the plugs they come loose. They screw onto the insulator. One day I was riding and lost power to one cylinder and reached down and grabbed the plug wire and got a jolt. I screwed the plug insulator back on and off I went. Make sure that the plug wires arn't grounding out to the frame at any point. If so replace the plug wires. This was another problem I found. Good luck and Ride Safe. David.
11/13/2009 2:41:22 AM • 1994 Suzuki VS... • 489 views • 2 helpful votes
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